A few what's-the-trick questions

[Ben Fenner]

1) You should have 3 pieces. The window crank itself, the metal spring 
clip, and the large plastic disc/washer that protects the door panel. 
First roll the window all the way up. This is important for placement 
during the final step. Place the large plastic washer over the knurled 
crank section coming out of the door. It is not flat, it is more like a 
bowl. Place the "bottom" of the bowel toward the door. Next put the 
metal spring clip into the slots on the hand crank. You may have lost 
this piece. It likes to fly around when removed. Finally, with the 
spring clip on the hand crank, push the hand crank into position onto 
the knurled shaft so that it is pointing up and toward the windshield at 
a 45 degree angle. The clip will snap things into place. Tug on the hand 
crank a little and you should be all set.


The placement is important so your knee doesn't contact the crank when 
the window is fully closed.



2) I can't stand these things. The only advice I have here is to maybe 
glue a nickle or two to the physical stop which will prevent the trunk 
from over-centering and locking on you if you have that problem.


3) I would take the time to buy new and replace the cable. It's likely 
to save to time, money, and effort in the long run. Assuming they are 
still for sale that is...



-Ben Fenner
1994 Turbo SE-R
2000 M-Coupe
2008 E91 Unicorn


On 2/13/2017 1:10 PM, David Pertuz wrote:
> 1) how do you get the window crank back on to stay? I have temporarily 
> misplaced my FSm and can't look it up there.
>
> 2) I reaaaaally want to get my second trunk torsion bar reconnected, 
> because it is a pain to get the trunk open otherwise. Last time I 
> tried, years ago, I put a new home in (the spring plate on my original 
> hinge was hopelessly deformed) got it in with difficulty, only to have 
> it pop out again. I suspect it is going to involve me lying in the 
> trunk with the lid mostly closed and using vice grips on the torsion 
> bar to get it seat, the name praying it stays.
>
> 3) is there an easy way to lube the hood cable? It doesn't make sense 
> to lube it from the dash (downhill) side, and at the latch the latch 
> body is in the way. I can't even see the end of the cable housing, 
> never mind get a nozzle in there.
>
> Thanks,
> David
>
>
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