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<p><font size="-1"><font face="Times New Roman">1) You should have 3
pieces. The window crank itself, the metal spring clip, and
the large plastic disc/washer that protects the door panel.
First roll the window all the way up. This is important for
placement during the final step. Place the large plastic
washer over the knurled crank section coming out of the door.
It is not flat, it is more like a bowl. Place the "bottom" of
the bowel toward the door. Next put the metal spring clip into
the slots on the hand crank. You may have lost this piece. It
likes to fly around when removed. Finally, with the spring
clip on the hand crank, push the hand crank into position onto
the knurled shaft so that it is pointing up and toward the
windshield at a 45 degree angle. The clip will snap things
into place. Tug on the hand crank a little and you should be
all set.<br>
<br>
<br>
The placement is important so your knee doesn't contact the
crank when the window is fully closed.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
2) I can't stand these things. The only advice I have here is
to maybe glue a nickle or two to the physical stop which will
prevent the trunk from over-centering and locking on you if
you have that problem.<br>
<br>
<br>
3) I would take the time to buy new and replace the cable.
It's likely to save to time, money, and effort in the long
run. Assuming they are still for sale that is...<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-Ben Fenner<br>
</font></font>1994 Turbo SE-R<br>
2000 M-Coupe<br>
2008 E91 Unicorn<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/13/2017 1:10 PM, David Pertuz
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAD0zwNkzDkeXg6QzEiWb1nR-oPFS1jKuj-UJxPT+WHaYaf9ccg@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">1) how do you get the window crank back on to stay? I
have temporarily misplaced my FSm and can't look it up there.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>2) I reaaaaally want to get my second trunk torsion bar
reconnected, because it is a pain to get the trunk open
otherwise. Last time I tried, years ago, I put a new home in
(the spring plate on my original hinge was hopelessly deformed)
got it in with difficulty, only to have it pop out again. I
suspect it is going to involve me lying in the trunk with the
lid mostly closed and using vice grips on the torsion bar to get
it seat, the name praying it stays. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>3) is there an easy way to lube the hood cable? It doesn't
make sense to lube it from the dash (downhill) side, and at the
latch the latch body is in the way. I can't even see the end of
the cable housing, never mind get a nozzle in there. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div>David</div>
<br>
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