dino 2 synth was Mixing natural and synthetic oil.

[Jon Pennington]

On Sat, 2002-01-12 at 19:21, John Tumas wrote:

>   It has nothing to do with the synthetic oil. The reason the squirters
> clogged is that the dino oil has either paraffin wax or plastic added to it

But the viscosity modifier usually stays put.  The near-detergent
properties of the synthetic exacerbated the problem to the point where
the clumps of modifier were practically washed off the sides of the
galleys.  He could have at least made it home, I bet, if not for the
switch to synthetic with old oil in the galleys.

>    It's a lesson learned. There was a thread about G20 automatics & clogged
> spraybars not too long ago. Rob Cadle & Mike Kojima recommended 3,000 mile
> oil changes & synthetic oil to minimize problems.

Lesson learned, indeed.  I'm about as religious as one gets about
nailing 3000 mile oil change intervals, and I'm of the opinion that
somebody driving 9-12,000 miles or more per year is a fool not to.  The
exception in my mind are people who constantly travel on the highway at
a rate of 30,000 miles per year or more; they can do with extending
their intervals a bit. ;)

> The 10w30 pours like a 20w50. I'm not so
> sure you would want to put this through a SR20DE oil spraybar. I'm not
> familiar with the MaxLife line of oils , but they may be very similar.

Thanks for the knowledge.  I suppose that Valvoline MaxLife is very
similar to Quaker State, but it may be a good idea to contact Valvoline
about what seperates MaxLife from DuraBlend if somebody is contemplating
a switch.  It's interesting to note how it pours out of the bottle, but
what does it look/feel like when it comes out the drain plug?

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

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