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<p>I have our cars treated with Fluid Film every year and it works
great. New England winters are no big deal now. Wish this stuff
was around 20 years ago with my first B13.</p>
<p>Matt</p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/29/20 3:30 PM, John Heer wrote:<br>
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<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif">Here's a link
to an informative YouTube video done by a mechanic who works a
town over from me here in Northeast Ohio. He tests a bunch of
undercoatings that are available on the market. Not sure if
that is the type of product you are looking for or not.</div>
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style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif"><br>
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<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif"><a
href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXlhmbvdKBo"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXlhmbvdKBo</a><br>
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<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif">John</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 2:02
PM James McColl <<a href="mailto:james.mccoll@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">james.mccoll@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Corrosion
Free rustproofing is used by the Canadian military for their
vehicles. In their testing, Rustcheck was third, Krown second,
CF first.
<div><br>
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<div>I wouldn't do it myself though. It's messy and the shop
would have the expertise and proper applicators to apply it
properly without missing areas.<br>
<br>
On Tuesday, 29 September 2020, David Pertuz <<a
href="mailto:d.pertuz@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">d.pertuz@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>Just got my car back with a new rack and new front
end (control arms with bushings, a/r bar bushings, end
links, strut mounts, replaced broken spring). I'm
thrilled to drive it again. But in all its sitting,
the exhaust broke again. A couple of years ago I
finally repaired the damage from the cat converter
theft using a cat that Josh Palmer gave me. When this
was done, the joint between the midpipe and muffler
was too stuck to unbolt and the shop had to cut and
weld. It's this weld that is broken. Ideally, I'd have
a shop make a new midsection and I'd get a good used
replacement OE muffler (I don't want anything louder
than stock). Backup choices would be either new
midpipe, weld flanges on that and muffler, keep using
muffler. Third would be aftermarket, but I absolutely
do *not* want a loud exhaust, and like the stock look.
Anyone got a muffler lying around?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Second: a year or two ago, rust finally started
appearing on my car in ways that weren't connected to
water leaks. My car's done amazingly well for a car
that's been in the midwest for 21 years - rockers,
wheel lips, etc. all clean as a whistle. I have rust
on the bottom of the trunk lid, below the license
plate, from a water leak through the lights that would
collect water at the flange. And a sunroof drain tube
leak did some hidden work on the drivers a pillar. Now
I'm starting to see bubbling on the left outer rocker,
inside the door jamb on the body below the upper
hinge, and at the bottom of the jamb. I'd like to coat
the outside stuff with POR15 (and I'll paint and spray
the chassis before winter) but I'd also like to get
inside the rockers and jamb and spray the inside
surfaces - suggestions as to where to get in there? <br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>David<br>
</div>
<div>Chicago<br>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
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