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<div>No knowledge to be gained here it appears... I rolled the dice and installed it dry.</div>
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<div style="font-size:9px;color:#575757">Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device</div>
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<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Erik Halvorson <hammer_down@hotmail.com> </div>
<div>Date:05/18/2016 9:25 AM (GMT-08:00) </div>
<div>To: se-r list <se-r@se-r-list.org> </div>
<div>Cc: </div>
<div>Subject: Not SE-R specific: Polymer Coated Metal Intake Gasket Question </div>
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<div dir="ltr">I just had a quick question of which I was not able to find a quick answer via a Google search, so I figured I would go to the trusty ol' SE-R Mailing List of knowledgeable people. I am replacing leaking intake gaskets on an RB26 (OEM throttle
body and manifold gaskets blew out on Cylinder 6, which is common with oem gaskets when running more boost than stock). I decided I did not want to do this again until it was time to actually pull the engine out of the car, so I was going to install one of
the polymer coated metal gaskets currently available. They are touted as being virtually "blow out proof" if installed correctly. I am using the Tomei coated metal gaskets. There is no additional factory applied bead of RTV around the coolant ports like
you see on some traditional gaskets. These gaskets do come coated on both sides with a polymer for "superior sealing performance". They are stamped with a raised bead around each port (intake and water).<br>
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The question is: <em>Do I need to put any sealant around the coolant ports for the manifold to cylinder head gasket or no sealant? </em></div>
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The directions from Tomei are more than a bit vague and they make no mention of adding any additional sealant for the coolant ports and yet it makes me hesitate to install the gasket "dry", mainly because I don't want to do this again. There is no room in
that engine bay for my large Scandinavian hands.....<br>
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Thanks in advance! <br>
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Erik</div>
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