<div dir="ltr">Oh, that's kind of obvious now that you mention it. When I did the job on my G20, I had to jack it up in two stages because my floor jack wouldn't lift the car high enough, nor would my jack stand keep it high enough. So there was much insertion and removal of wood blocks, etc. But lifting the car by the rad support seems pretty easy. <br>
<br>David<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 12:40 PM, Christopher Scarpulla <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:cscarpulla@gmail.com" target="_blank">cscarpulla@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="im">"<span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">getting the car up high enough to slide the engine out the bottom was fussy."</span><div>
<br></div></div><div>Lower the engine & transmission onto cardboard, or something similarly slippery, lift the front of the car up using the engine hoist, and slide that sucker on out.</div><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888">
<div><br></div><div>C</div></font></span></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 12:32 PM, David Pertuz <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:d.pertuz@gmail.com" target="_blank">d.pertuz@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div><div>Lam,<br><br>Thanks - I thought of that a bit after I sent the message. I recall seeing such a support on a car somewhere just last week, and this brought it back to mind. I also realized that I could use the JWT strut tower brace and a short ratcheting tie-down strap or something like that to support the engine from above. <br>
<br></div>It's been yeeeears since I did an engine swap - putting a replacement engine in my G20 ca. 2005 - but I do recall that while there are many steps involved in disconnecting everything, it's basically simple, though getting the car up high enough to slide the engine out the bottom was fussy. Taking the engine out would let me clean up the engine bay nicely, too. <br>
<br></div>David<br>Chicago<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 12:02 PM, LAM-PARK <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:LAM-PARK@cox.net" target="_blank">LAM-PARK@cox.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I have done the rod bearings before in the vehicle but it was up on a lift and it sucked - even with the lift I would rather just pull the engine and trans.<br>
<br>
If you do choose to do it in the car supporting the engine/trans is not necessary but would be recommended to prevent damage to the passenger engine mount as well as brittle coolant hoses. You can go to most auto part stores and rent an engine support bracket that hold the engine up via both of the fenders. Harbor Freight also sells them pretty cheap.<br>
<br>
I am the original owner of my 93 B13. We will be hitting the 20 year mark this August.<br>
<br>
Good luck on your project.<br>
<div><div><br>
On May 22, 2013, at 9:28 AM, David Pertuz <<a href="mailto:d.pertuz@gmail.com" target="_blank">d.pertuz@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
> Hello OGs,<br>
><br>
> I'm finally moving along with the task list on my SE-R and had a question. Number one on the list is replacing the rod bearings. I've removed the lower oil pan and loosened the upper pan bolts and crossmember bolts (unfortunately - d'oh! - one crossmember bolt snapped off, so I will have to drill it out.) and this weekend I will remove the crossmember and remove the upper oil pan and the baffling so that I can get to the bearing caps.<br>
><br>
> I've assumed that it is really best to support the driveline when the crossmember is out rather than let it hang there on the front and transmission mounts. But is it necessary? I have to rig up a stable support under the trans housing and all of this is rather in the way when I'm under the car, so there is a certain upside to not doing it. On the other hand, I don't want to overstress the mounts, which are good.<br>
><br>
> On a related question, I've thought about pulling the whole engine/trans unit, which would make it a lot kinder to do the bearings (standing up rather than lying on my back) and would also let me do other stuff like reseal the front cover (if needed, but might as well if it's out) and replace any hard-to-get-at rubber that may be over-aged on the back side of the motor. I haven't done this since it is a lot more work and I would have to buy/beg/borrow/steal a hoist and engine stand, neither of which I have. That is not all bad - I may have to eventually pull the engine on my Fiat, too - but it's additional expense and more stuff, taking up more space. But if any of you did an engine-in bearing job and wished you'd done it the other way, I'd like to hear it.<br>
><br>
> I drove my SE-R home from the dealer on May 18th, 1993, so its 20th birthday passed last weekend. I can't believe I've had that car for 20 years! I wanted to have it running again by then, and while that didn't happen mid-summer ought to.<br>
><br>
> David<br>
> Chicago<br>
><br>
> P.S. Any of you going to the convention? Greg brought it to my mind yesterday.<br>
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