<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0" ><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;">I've seen this too, after as little as a week parked, and without the dead battery although that makes a lot of sense. The culprit always looks like it's the EGR in these cases but does the IACV ever figure into a problem like this. Me, I always suspect sensors because I always suspect things smarter than me. :-)<br><br>Larry Martin<br><br>--- On <b>Tue, 3/8/11, Kieran A. Lavin <i><kieran@kieranlavin.com></i></b> wrote:<br><blockquote style="border-left: 2px solid rgb(16, 16, 255); margin-left: 5px; padding-left: 5px;"><br>From: Kieran A. Lavin <kieran@kieranlavin.com><br>Subject: RE: Quickie TB Cleaning<br>To: "George Roffe" <geo31@suddenlink.net>, "se-r@se-r-list.org" <se-r@se-r-list.org>, "wc701lists@bellsouth.net" <wc701lists@bellsouth.net><br>Date: Tuesday, March 8, 2011, 9:28 AM<br><br><div
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<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Book Antiqua" size="2">I had to do the same thing when my water temp sensor (or maybe was it sender... it's so long ago now) went bad. James McColl's mechanic/buddy was explaining to me when I was up at Shannonville
once what the problem was. At the time I had this problem where the car gave me trouble starting and, like you guys are describing, I had to floor it to keep the engine alive. It got bad to the point where it would stall as I was driving it and, again, I'd
have to floor it to start like it was carburated or something. I explained the problem to James's mechanic/friend and he told me to swap the sensor (I'm pretty sure). He explained that the sensor being bad fooled the engine into thinking it was -40 degrees
or something stupid and it restricted the amount of air so you needed to open up the throttle to get more air. It went something like that. I doubt that's the problem Jon's having though.</font></div>
<div dir="ltr"><font face="book antiqua" size="2"></font> </div>
<div dir="ltr"><font face="book antiqua" size="2">To answer your question Jon, if I recall correctly ( and it makes the most sense) the smallest of the EGR tubes had the most blockage when I cleaned mine out although there wasn't much blockage overall AT ALL
in mine and my car has had a perpetual check engine for EGR since mile 0.5 or so. I think it was a small elbow that was about the width of a pencil between two rubber hoses and it had a little blockage but not much. I can take a look at the car when I get
home tonight and try to take a picture for you</font></div>
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<div><font face="Impact" size="2"></font> </div>
<div><font face="Impact" size="2"></font> </div>
<div><font face="Impact" size="2">kieran</font></div>
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<font face="Tahoma" size="2"><b>From:</b> se-r-bounces@se-r-list.org [se-r-bounces@se-r-list.org] On Behalf Of George Roffe [geo31@suddenlink.net]<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, March 08, 2011 10:16 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> se-r@se-r-list.org; wc701lists@bellsouth.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: Quickie TB Cleaning<br>
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<p>Wayne Cox wrote:<br>
<br>
I've let SR20s sit for extended periods, and just about always had<br>
trouble getting them to start / idle. Holding the throttle wide open<br>
often gets them firing -- which makes me think they're prone to<br>
"flooding" but I can't think of any place in there for fuel to puddle.<br>
And then they seem to require some driving time to "clear out" what ever<br>
was bothering them. </p>
<p>========================= </p>
<p>You know, this jogged my memory. I am pretty sure I had the same issue when I installed my freshly built engine, my DET, and when we swapped my old engine into our LeMons car. Anyway, my point being that I had to do this with even a freshly built engine.
Strange. I thought it very strange at the time - it's something you'd expect with a carbureted engine.
</p>
<p>Geo </p>
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