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<div>Thanks for the reply. I basically did 4 trips around the car and now have a great pedal. I didnt bench bleed the mc, which on the old detroit iron ive done. The first trip around hardly yielded anything, 2nd trip didnt change until the lf. 3rd trip got rid of most of the air, and a few bubbles on the last. So far so good! Thanks again,</div>
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<div> Bernie </div>
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<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: annapolis13315@adelphia.net<br>
To: rcktpwr@aol.com<br>
Sent: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 9:22 AM<br>
Subject: Re: Bleeding new master cylinder<br>
<br>
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<div class=AOLPlainTextBody id=AOLMsgPart_0_463024fe-5788-49d8-8806-59f956f7f851>Bernie -- <br>
<br>
I would bench bleed it and then also check it by bleeding it on the car. Especially check the 2 MC outlet pipes where bubbles might accumulate because of their location high on the MC. Some folks say that you can blow all the air out through the calipers, but I have not found that method to be reliable. Use lots of rags under the MC in the engine compartment until you get it all sealed up. <br>
<br>
Good luck -- if your pedal remains mushy, just do the bleeding sequence again (MC, LR, RF, RR, LF). <br>
<br>
Bill Conner <br>
<br>
<A href="mailto:rcktpwr%40aol.com">rcktpwr@aol.com</A> wrote: <br>
> Hi list. Im putting a new master cylinder on my stock 93 SE-R, no anti > lock brakes. Do you bench bleed it or do u just bleed it after its > installed on the car? If I hadnt misplaced the factory service manual I > wouldnt be asking! Thanks in advance............... <br>
> > Bernie NJ <br>
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