stock muffler available? or aftermarket recos. Also rocker and A-pillar rust mitigation

[James McColl]

Fluid Film is decent as well. It's lanolin-based and used on oil platforms
to protect against corrosion.

On Tuesday, 29 September 2020, David Pertuz <d.pertuz at gmail.com> wrote:

> I may rustproof (or spray Fluid Film or something) my JSW since it's new
> to me and a squeaky-clean CA car; for the SE-R I just want to stop what's
> started.
>
> And driving it again reminds me that nothing else I've owned has the
> super-snappy throttle response of this car. I've had the JWT ECU on it for
> so long I don't remember what it was like without it.
>
> David
>
> On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 2:16 PM James McColl <james.mccoll at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I started rustproofing my NX as soon as I bought it in 1996. It kept it
>> pretty nice, from when it was a DD (track-only - well, jackstands lately,
>> but no need to keep rustproofing).
>>
>> On Tuesday, 29 September 2020, David Pertuz <d.pertuz at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I knew a Canadian would chime in on that.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 1:02 PM James McColl <james.mccoll at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Corrosion Free rustproofing is used by the Canadian military for their
>>>> vehicles. In their testing, Rustcheck was third, Krown second, CF first.
>>>>
>>>> I wouldn't do it myself though. It's messy and the shop would have the
>>>> expertise and proper applicators to apply it properly without missing areas.
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, 29 September 2020, David Pertuz <d.pertuz at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Just got my car back with a new rack and new front end (control arms
>>>>> with bushings, a/r bar bushings, end links, strut mounts, replaced broken
>>>>> spring). I'm thrilled to drive it again. But in all its sitting, the
>>>>> exhaust broke again. A couple of years ago I finally repaired the damage
>>>>> from the cat converter theft using a cat that Josh Palmer gave me. When
>>>>> this was done, the joint between the midpipe and muffler was too stuck to
>>>>> unbolt and the shop had to cut and weld. It's this weld that is broken.
>>>>> Ideally, I'd have a shop make a new midsection and I'd get a good used
>>>>> replacement OE muffler (I don't want anything louder than stock). Backup
>>>>> choices would be either new midpipe, weld flanges on that and muffler, keep
>>>>> using muffler. Third would be aftermarket, but I absolutely do *not* want a
>>>>> loud exhaust, and like the stock look. Anyone got a muffler lying around?
>>>>>
>>>>> Second: a year or two ago, rust finally started appearing on my car in
>>>>> ways that weren't connected to water leaks. My car's done amazingly well
>>>>> for a car that's been in the midwest for 21 years - rockers, wheel lips,
>>>>> etc. all clean as a whistle. I have rust on the bottom of the trunk lid,
>>>>> below the license plate, from a water leak through the lights that would
>>>>> collect water at the flange. And a sunroof drain tube leak did some hidden
>>>>> work on the drivers a pillar. Now I'm starting to see bubbling on the left
>>>>> outer rocker, inside the door jamb on the body below the upper hinge, and
>>>>> at the bottom of the jamb. I'd like to coat the outside stuff with POR15
>>>>> (and I'll paint and spray the chassis before winter) but I'd also like to
>>>>> get inside the rockers and jamb and spray the inside surfaces - suggestions
>>>>> as to where to get in there?
>>>>>
>>>>> David
>>>>> Chicago
>>>>>
>>>>
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