CV joint help! con't

[Jeff Hager]

Chris,

I'm doing the job with hand tools so the brake rotor trick is good. I've used the brake pedal with a block as well.

I usually usually insert cussing into this job at the point when I pull the axle.  If I have a problem, I'll bring rope and try that trick.

I remember taking the fill plug out the first time. i put antiseize on it then.

I'm pretty positive I pulled the swaybar end link last time.  I may disconnect it before I jack up the car.

I don't intend to pull the brake caliper or rotor if I can help it.

The last time I did this there was slop in the strut mount bolt, not much but it was there.  I'll see if I can mark it to retain alignment.

Thanks,

Jeff   


----- Original Message -----

>A few quick tips:
>
>If you don't have an impact wrench, stick a screwdriver through the caliper access window and into the brake rotor in order to keep the axle from turning when >removing & replacing the axle nut.
>
>The axle may get stuck about 3" of the way out due to the circular clip on the end of the axle shaft. I've always had a heck of a time getting a pry bar to get it all the >way out, but simply wrap a rope or chain around the axle in that 3" gap, and give a good tug to pop it out.
>
>If you can't remove the fill plug, you can refill it through the speedometer sensor.
>
>All this talk about removing the sway bar endink.... it only takes a few seconds and makes it MUCH easier to push the control arm down far enough to clear the tip of >the axle. 
>
>You don't need to remove the brake disc or rotor. Just make sure you don't stretch the brake line too much. It should be fine, but keep an eye on it.
>
>There's not a whole lot of slop in the strut-to-knuckle holes, and it only affects your camber, so the alignment won't change appreciably.
>
>C