Rod bearing replacement (Update 4)

[Peter Serwe]

According to Greg V. over at Mossy and most
documentation projects I've seen around the
web, 'Ultra Grey' is the product.  I waited a
couple of hours, and have a small leak near
the transmission, but did not go crazy.

I've also heard that it's a good idea to let
it set up 15 minutes or so.  YMMV.

I don't think I waited long enough, and
the part where it leaks is either, because
I broke the bead, or because I didn't let it
cure long enough.

Greg also says that the current Nissan stuff
isn't grey, it's orange..

The FSM, IIRC, says ' ... use a 5-6mm bead ...'.

That's as far as I remember, a low to medium,
but ever so steady pressure on the tube.  If
I did it more, I'd get the calk gun tubes.

As it is, I would highly recommend making
sure you have the steadiness of hand to do
the whole bead in one swell foop, the place
I had to re-adjust my hand and pressure, due
to a good portion of the tube being evacuated
is where my bead broke, and the thing leaks
*slightly*, but annoyingly, from there.  It didn't
look like much of a defect, but our motors are
extremely finicky, due to phenomenally high
oil pressure (a good thing, really :)).

Jay, Mike, Shig, or someone would really know
even better.

Ben Fenner wrote:

> Mike Jez said:

--
Peter Serwe <peter@easytree.net>
Cheaper, Faster, Better, pick any two.