Brake Rotors

[Peter Serwe]

Coastal Maine method, where everything is rusted fast:

Take oxy-propane, oxy-acetylene, or even handheld map gas torch
heat up the part you want to expand a little and break the rust, heat up
every part of the contact area between the rotor and the hub, wait
for it to cool down a little, listen for very light crackling sounds,

Take rubberized hammer, rubber mallet, or BFH and gently, if BFH is used,
smack the central, non-disc area of the rotor it a few times like your
wielding
a thigh bone in the first 10 minutes of 2001: A Space Odyssey.  Make all the

banana jokes you want, but it works :)  This method help for people who
c-clamp their rear calipers back in, but it works great for rusted rotors.

This method is really bad for attempting to free anything you might need to
drill/cut out.  The heat cycling tends to temper the metal really well -
went through
a few drill bits and a bunch of hacksaw blades trying to free a rocker stud
on a
domestic iron oldschool head, finally managed to get a 1/4" through, tapped
in 1/4-20,
and slide-hammered the pesky thing out - by about 4:00pm, had the new one
in,
valves adjusted, and valve covers all back on by 5:00, after spending all
day trying drill
hardened steel out of cast iron safely.  In retrospect, rip your head off,
put it on a
valve/seat/stud machine, and have it drilled out properly.

Brian Jones wrote:

> You probably will need a disc puller depending on how rusted
> On your rotors are to the hub.  Of course you really don't need
> To buy one or anything, but just find a think metal plate and some
> Bolts with nuts and you can make your own puller really easy.

--
Peter Serwe <peter@easytree.net>
Cheaper, Faster, Better, pick any two.
finger peter@easytree.net for public pgp key