Niss Sport write up

[Ian Lyn]

In the last write up, I covered installation of the LoTek A-Pillar
gauge
pods. This time, I'll go further and cover the actual gauge
installation.

First the gauges:
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/autometer_guages.JPG

I decided to use AutoMeter gauges. AutoMeter has a good reputation
for accuracy, reliability and the cost is reasonable.
AutoMeter gauges come in either Electrical or Mechanical.
AutoMeter gauges can be had in black, white and carbon fiber faces.
They also come with colored bulb covers to help match the gauge
lights to your
dash lights.
I chose to use the black gauge face to match the interior of my car.

Electrical Vs Mechanical gauges.
People often wonder which gauges are "better".
Electrical gauges offer better installation flexibility. Especially if
you're mounting the gauge some distance from the part being monitored.

Mechanical gauges are more accurate because they directly measure, via
plastic or metal tubing, the item to be monitored. And because of
this, they
are also quicker in response. Not to mention they require no (except
for the gauge light bulbs) electricity to work.

Which gauges to use? Here's my recommendation;
Water Temperature (Electrical), Oil Pressure (Mechanical) and the
third (For those with the three pod A-Pillar) is up to you. Now if
your NX is a turbo monster, use the Boost (Mechanical) gauge. For you
hardcore track racers an Oil Temperature( Electrical) gauge.
Which ones did I use?
Water Temperature (Electrical), Oil Pressure (Mechanical) and Voltage
(Electrical only, duh!)

Before I mounted the gauges, I looked into gauge adapters. At first, I
purchased the NISMO oil pressure adapter. But then I found out about
http://www.NISsport.com/
NISsport makes a oil pressure adapter that is not only stronger than
the NISMO piece, but has additional ports for turbo oil supply lines
or whatever.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/oil_press_adap.JPG

The NISsport oil pressure sending unit adapter is CNC machined from
316 stainless steel. The NISMO oil pressure adapter is made from
Brass. Brass,as well as Aluminum, oil pressure adapters can break off
at the threads.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/NISsport_vs_NISMO.JPG

Now if you're thinking about just removing the OEM oil pressure
sending unit, *don't*.
First, Nissan uses 1/8 BSPT threads for its sending units rather than
the more common 1/8 NPT making installing a aftermarket oil pressure
sending unit into the OEM oil pressure port difficult at best.
Secondly, removing the OEM oil pressure sending unit will cause the
low oil pressure warning (idiot) light to stay on.

The next adapter that I purchased was the NISsport water temperature
adapter.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/temp_adap_new.JPG

The adapter is CNC machined from 6061 aluminum and is machined with
a 1/8 NPT threaded hole for a aftermarket sending unit.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/temp_adap_1.JPG

It is also equipped with a screw to attach a grounding wire, which is
necessary since the NISsport adapter is attached only to rubber
radiator
hoses.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/temp_adap_rdy.JPG

After purchasing the oil pressure and water temperature adapters, the
next thing to do was to install the gauges into the gauge pod.The
LoTek gauge pods are drilled to accommodate 2 1/16" gauges. And the
fit is TIGHT! I had to remove all the QC stickers from the AutoMeter
gauges so they would fit!
And while I'm on the subject, if you're using the AutoMeter gauges,
you'll need to trim the mounting studs or the gauges won't go all the
way into the pod.
Here's a shot of the AutoMeter mechanical oil pressure gauge just
before installation into the gauge pod.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/oil_press_guage.JPG

Notice the plastic tubing. This is how the oil pressure gauge works.
By allowing the engine oil to act directly upon the gauge. Very
accurate way to measure oil pressure. The downside is you are
bringing engine oil into the passenger compartment. So it's critical
to avoid leaks.

Look carefully and you'll see the silicone sealant where the plastic
tubing connects. The instructions that come with the AutoMeter gauge
says to use thread tape. I prefer to use 3M silicone sealer.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/3m.jpg

3M is the brand that Nissan uses on it's engines. It's O2 sensor
safe, cures quickly and is non corrosive.

In this picture (sorry for the poor focus) you can see the oil line
with the cap and washer placed onto the line. This is the order in
which to install onto the oil pressure gauge AND the oil pressure
adapter. By the way, be careful not to over tighten when installing
the plastic tubing. This could also cause it to leak.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/oil_press_line.JPG

Next I installed the oil pressure gauge line fitting onto the oil
pressure adapter.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/oil_press_adap_rdy.JPG

Notice how the OEM oil pressure unit screws into the base of the
adapter.
Also, notice that the oil ports that weren't being used have been
sealed up with the 3M silicone sealer. I can't stand oil leaks.

Next I installed the wiring onto the gauges. The instructions that
come with the AutoMeter gauges are simple to understand and complete,
so I won't repeat them here. However, I do recommend that you wire
the gauges first,*THEN* install the gauges into the pods.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/rats_nest.JPG

It all may look like a rat's nest when you're finished, but if you
mark the lines, installation won't be too difficult.

Next, I need an electrical source for the gauge lights. There are a
couple of sources for this. You can tap into the dimmer switch, which
will allow you to control the brightness of the gauges along with the
dash lights. Or you can tap into the light switch on the steering
column. I choose the latter for two reasons.
One, my dimmer switch no longer works.
Two, it's easier to get into the steering column. (OK, I was lazy)
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/steering_column2.JPG

For the electrical gauges (in this case water temperature and
voltage), I needed a switched 12V source. I chose to tap into the
ignition line just after it comes out of the ignition switch.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/steering_column.JPG

For a ground I used the bracket underneath the lower dash.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/steering_column3.JPG

The bolts that are circled make good grounding points.

After everything is wired up and connected, now you can install the
gauge pod. Be careful when installing it in that the mounting screws
don't cut into the wires.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/guages.JPG

After checking to make sure that the gauges light up and the voltage
gauge works, next thing to do is to install the sending unit and
adapters.

But before I could do that, I to find a place to feed the plastic oil
pressure tubing and the water temperature sending unit wire into the
engine compartment.
Fortunately, there was a rubber plug next to the throttle cable
(cruise control, I think). I merely slit the rubber cover and
inserted the plastic oil pressure tubing into the hole and ran it
down the firewall to the oil pressure adapter.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/firwall.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/subcltr_63/carramp.jpg

After jacking up the front end, I located the OEM oil pressure
sending unit.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/oil_press_send_unit.JPG

Then remove the quick(which usually doesn't) disconnect wire harness.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/oil_press_send.JPG

The area is a bit on the tight side. And if you still have the intake
manifold brace(which I got rid of a loooong time ago), it will be even
tighter.

Next screw in the oil pressure adapter and attach the plastic oil
pressure tubing to the adapter in the same manner as it was installed
onto the pressure gauge.
Make sure you use the 3M silicone sealant on the threads.
And like before, avoid over tightening.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/oil_press_adap_done.JPG

In case you're wondering, I only had to trim about 4" (20mm) off the
plastic tubing.

Next, I installed the water temperature adapter and ran the wire for
the sending unit as well as the ground wire.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/temp_send_line2.JPG

Notice the location of the water temperature adapter. This is the
ideal location for it as it will measure coolant temperature as it
leaves the cylinder head.

Also notice how the wire from the sending unit is routed.
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/temp_send_line.JPG

I choose this way to send the wire as it's the shortest and keeps the
wire out of the way.

Here's how it looked after everything is finished:
http://www.geocities.com/sw_serca/temp_send_unit_done.JPG

Notice the split loom. The split loom will protect the wire as well
as give a neater appearance.

Now all I have to do at this point is to start the car up and check
for leaks.

Impressions:
I really like the LoTek gauge pods! The angle is perfect and the
gauges are at near eye level.
The water temperature gauge has confirmed what I've suspected for
quite some time. The OEM water temp gauge is OFF! Way OFF!
When the motor is first started up the gauge is on the "C". No big
deal as the thermostat hasn't opened yet. But once the thermostat
opens, the AutoMeter gauge is reading about 150* , but the OEM gauge
is still on the "C". In fact by the time the OEM temperature gauge
moves to the first line the AutoMeter water temperature gauge reads
180*! And by the time the OEM temperature gauge is mid point
(supposedly normal temperature), the AutoMeter is reading 215*!

Good thing I'm using the NISMO thermostat.

Thomas Fox