Engine Hoisting Proceedure

[Tom Paule]

Good write up! I've done dozens of swaps and have
found it easier to drop the motor out the bottom
rather than hoist it out the top also. The trick is to
jack the nose of the car so there's at least 24" of
clearance from the lowest point in the front (radiator
cross piece) to the ground. I prefer to drop the
engine with the tranny and axles in place, as well as
the header primary. Disconnect that stuff on the
ground boss! Only trick to remember is the 2 14mm
bolts on the very bottom of the engine that go into
the tranny from pass side to driver side. These are
tricky to see on the bottom when the engine is on the
ground and will make you scratch your head once you've
gotten the starter off and all the 17mms and the
tranny still won't budge!

This method also lets you align the clutch and put the
tranny on while everything is easy to get to and see
rather than when it's in the car.

Going back in, I put the motor and tranny together,
mount them in the car then put the axles back in. I've
done a swap in 8 hours by myself once (right after
learning the engine I had just put in was bad).

Tom

--- cowboydren@b15sentra.net wrote:
> I thought it would be appropriate to document, or at
> least reiterate a
> few things I learned this weekend whilst doing an
> engine swap in a '91 G20