control-arms (recent job)

[Pat]

Having just done this Saturday... Pickle fork works fine for the steering
end links. Tap the fork in with a hammer and it will pop right out.  For
the ball joint, I used a screw press type like JC Whitney sells (they also
have a lever arm type like in the FSM) for about $14. Tightens down and
pops with a bang.  Pressed in new ball joints. As for the bushings, you do
need to burn the small cylindrical one, basically enough so the inner metal
bushing slides out. The outer part of the OEM rubber bushing has a metal
sleeve which fits tight against the control arm. You have to bend the
bushing sleeve in, away from the control arm itself. I had a modified
chisel, but a narrow wedge will work. I then went at it with a cold chisel
and cut the metal sleeve halfway down before it slid out. the FAQ has a
good pict of the removed bushing.
The large mailbox or bread loaf shaped bushing was totally frozen on. I cut
away the rubber  until I got down to a metal sleeve. There is 1mm  of
rubber between the sleeve and the control arm pivot pin. I carefully cut
through the sleeve along it's length with a Dremel, pried it open and it
finally slid off the pivot. Now the control arm can actually move up and
down. My alignment is now off, so plan on getting yours done. YMMV.
Have fun,  Pat

>In looking over my Haynes manual, it says to use a pickle-fork to separate.
>Is there any special trick y'all use to do this? I am worried about damaging