Solo II "Belting"

[Charlie Guthrie]

If you are looking to secure yourself to the seat for Solo II type events a
less expensive approach is to use webbing with either quick release latches
(plastic squeeze to release latches, like found on life jackets and camping
gear) or Velcro (like a knee-board strap. In the mid 80's I made a 3" wide
strap with Velcro that went around the seatback and under my arms. The strap
held me tightly to the seat and was not so strong as to cause internal
injury in the event of a "sudden stop." Also, if the seatbelt uses a fixed
lower anchor with the retractor at on the top and a slip fit on the buckle,
you can make a locking bar to make the lapbelt tight. I used two strips of
steel just wider than the belt. I drilled and tapped the ends of one strip
for #10-32 screws and drilled clearance holes in the other. The strips then
sandwiched the belt at the buckle. The belt was latched then cinched up
tight and the strips were tightened. For "extra tight", the buckle was
released and the belt shortened and then the strips were re-tightened. It
involved a big exhale to re-latch the buckle, but after that the driver was
thoroughly anchored to the seat. If the lower anchor point houses the
retractor, it may be possible to "trick" the retractor into thinking that it
needs to lock. Some approaches to "locking" the retractor have involved
using magnets or trip wires to move the lock into place.
As a matter of practice, I would not spend money on a roll bar for a closed
car for autocross. The money would be better spent on: tires, tires, sport
seat, tires, beer...(oops)....
Charlie G