Help from the turbo gurus

[cowboydren@b15sentra.net]

On Wed, Oct 23, 2002 at 01:03:55PM -0500, Ray Sta.Juana wrote:

> ultimate HP figures. Main concerns are drivability and smooth boost onset.
> Any tips from you guys are always appreciated. I would like to do this as a
> christmas present from me to me. Thanx in advance.

A Bluebird engine with a T25 and a boost controller can quite easily hit
190-200WHP with practically no other mods.  I saw one with the stock
TMIC, the stock SE-R (1.875-ish") exhaust, Bluebird ECU and a $30 manual
boost controller do about 195 WHP.  A T25 turbo setup can *certainly*
get you to your goal, especially if you are starting with a stock US
engine (9.5:1 compression ratio).  Several experts on this board could
tell you exactly what to expect in terms of power; I don't know that
stuff off the top of my head, yet. ;)

It's not just a turbo, though.  You'll also need an intercooler, some
larger fuel injectors, preferrably a reprogrammed ECU, and a few other
things that really add up in cost.  Hit SR20DEForum.com's Turbo forum,
scan around, and see what's possible.  Don't forget to also check the
Classifieds forum as well as the SE-R Classifieds (is it up again, Geo?)
to see what people have for sale.

Things you'll need:

 - Bluebird or Avenir or GTi-R exhaust manifold (~$300 for the GTi-R
unit, which is the only one that'll fit anything bigger than a T25).
 - 370cc/m injectors, such as the ones found in late model 300ZX TTs.
 - JWT-reprogrammed ECU; you tell them what parts you need/have, they'll
set up the rest.
 - PLUMBING.  Compressor-to-IC pipe, IC-to-TB pipe, downpipe for turbo.
Oh, and an intercooler.  Anything from a BB TMIC mounted to your bumper
to a $900 Spearco will work; the sky and your wallet are the only
limits.i
 - A JWT or Stillen intake filter kit will also be important,
since you'll have to trash the stock intake tract.
 - AD22VF brake upgrade.  Don't screw around with stock brakes when you
start adding horsepower.

Things you'll want:

 - Boost controller.  The Wastegate on a stock turbo opens at 7-9 PSI,
which isn't enough boost for 200 WHP on a stock engine.  See budgetary
comment for FMIC, above.  $30 aquarium bleeder valve or $600 A'PEXi AVC
Type-R; your choice.
 - Big exhaust.  GReddy 60mm cat-back should be considered your bare
minimum.  3" pipe, mandrel bends, and straight-through mufflers are
preferred.  Mike Kojima has excellent articles about exhaust design at
NPM (http://www.nissanmperformancemag.com/).
 - Big fuel pump.  You should be okay with the stock pump at 200 WHP,
but as you start adding more power, you're going to need more fuel.
300ZX, Q45, Walbro, whatever.
 - JWT S3 or S4 cams and adjustable cam sprockets.  Yeah, it's about
$650 worth of "optional equipment," but the S3s added 30 WHP to a
Bluebird engine by themselves.  DAMN.
 - VLSD-equipped transmission.  Or does your car already have one?

If it were me, I'd get:

 - Used GTi-R manifold and a T25 or T28 from somebody ($500?)
 - Hot Shot SR20DET install kit with a low-port intake pipe ($1400)
 - JWT POP, Accord WAI kit, big exhaust ($120, $50, $400)
 - JWT ECU; 370cc injectors, 4-bar program, 54mm MAF sensor ($600)
 - NISMO Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator ($170)
 - JWT S3 cams, valvesprings/retainers (way optional), sprockets ($700?)
 - Quite a bit of manual labor, mostly for the turbo itself ($500-1000)

Total cost?  A little less money than trying in vain to get 200WHP out
of a naturally-aspirated SR20DE without doing a full rebuild.  Figure
about three grand minimum, though.  George Roffe wrote a really neat
article in the December '01 issue of SCC detailing his SR20DET swap into
his wife's G20.  Good stuff, lots of it applies to people doing turbo
upgrade installs, too.  Coincidentally, George has an (unfinished)
article series on his website detailing The Beast, a 170-ish WHP
monster SR20DE. :)

--
-=|JP|=-        "It's like a koala crapped a rainbow in my brain..."

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