G20 water pump replacement, crank pulley replacement, and dogbone motor mount

[David Pertuz]

A note for the archives: I used Rick Zotz's instructions for replacing the
water pump, but on a G you do not need to remove any power steering hoses.
The PS adjuster would be easier to get to, but I don't think it's worth the
extra work of draining and refilling the PS system. Also, if you tighten
the water pump pulley bolts after you have the PS belt on and tight, you do
not need to do any two-wrench trickery. The same goes for taking the pulley
off, if you do it without first loosening the belt.

For the crank pulley, I used a "Chrysler crank puller" or some such-named
thing that I borrowed from Autozone. It backs it out against the nose of
the crank, which is safer than using the little holes. Ifyou use a puller
that pushes against the front cover, don't even think about doing it
without putting something on the fron tocver to protect it first. You
really don't want to punch a hoel in it. The socket you need is 26mm or
27mm (sorru, I've forgotten already.) An electric impact removes it easily.
To tighten the bolt again to ~100 ft-lbs. you'll need someone to step on
the brakes for you, or else a screwdriver for each brake rotor (one won't do.)

now, one more question: what does a good G20 (5-speed) front dogbone mount
look like? I think mine is bad, but it is different from the SE-R mount, so
I am not entirely sure. Mine appears not to be physically connected to
anything at all on the crossmember side anymore, but then again it doesn't
exactly look like it ever was.

David