Re-surfacing brake rotors

[Hammer Down]

Verify this information but this is what I know to be true and work by:

A very good friend of mine is a Brake Guru and has been working on special
brake projects for Pro Motocycle racing programs, Snowmobiles, Karts as well
as some touring car applications.  I have also read this information written
by some more reknown brake experts.  In 99% of the cases, the wobbling felt
under braking is not the rotor being warped.
Cast Iron will not warp without also cracking because it in not ductile.  In
most cases (better than 99% of the time) what you are feeling as a wobble or
vibration under braking is the deposit of brake pad material onto the
surface of the rotor due to incorrect breaking in or "bedding" of the pad.
I usually use something aggressive to scuff the rotor, like 100 or even 80
grit.  Works great.  For a break in, do a couple of hard "NEAR" stops from
60-ish.  Gradually get more aggressive on the brakes each near stop.  DO not
come to a complete stop during this process or you will deposit material
onto the rotor again.  Between each stop. gradually accelerate back up to
speed to allow the brakes a little time to cool.  What you are doing in this
process is "cooking" away the binder or glue that is used to form and hold
together the pad but onlu on the very face for a couple of thousandths
thick.  After the process, you should be able to see a small band of
white/gray around the edge of the face of the pad.

Anyone is welcome to correct me if I am wrong.

Erik Halvorson
SE-R goes away today
I am a new daddy!  Sadie May Halvorson was born at 5pm yesterday.
Volvo is on it's way...

Ray wrote:
I'm getting a wobbling when I apply the brakes around 70-80mph. Doesn't
happen in higher speeds or lower speeds.