Power Loss!! HELP!!!

[Chris Pronios]

> I LOST power all over.  BIG loss in torque under the curve.

Torry, it is certainly a loss but it is not BIG. If you have not added the
header it would be a reasonable loss that could be attributed to tuning or
whatever. It is the addition of the header that makes it very apparent.

> However, I would think the ECU would compensate within the
> flow rate of the injectors, so that should be fine.

You are right. The ECU is able to compensate and all your bolt-ons and
power/torque parameters have been tested succesfully in numerous occasions.
Forget the leaning-out due to increased air flow.

The Fuel pressure theory is much more probable since you say you are loosing
power everywhere. This indicates a "systemic" flaw so there should be a
veric basic reason for this. Going back to basics it will be either ignition
or fuel. Since it happens everywhere I would check the ignition coil as per
FSM specs and the feul pump-FPR cobo for pressure.

> I can either A) take the car to the dealer and complain of it taking
> forever to start or B) dyno my car again using a wideband and see if
> it's leaning out up top

A) is your 1st step. Do it anyway, I believe with a low-key attitude the
dealer will at least check your fuel pressure components and if pump or FPR
come up faulty they will change it. I do not believe that any dealer will
attribute a faulty fuel pump or a faulty FPR to your mods. The key is to
just have them check it! Just put up front the difficulty-in-starting issue.
If they accept to do it then you should be OK in case of damage to the fuel
system.

Or you could do C). Check your fuel rail yourself  for correct pressure. It
is cheap and easy to do. Just get a vacuum gauge and check the pressure.
You should take all precautions and release fuel pressure by removing fuel
pump fuse and run the engine until it dies, crank 2-3 times after that and
then turn off key and reconnect the fuse.
Connect the pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the fuel tube coming
OUT of the filter. Start engine, check for fuel leakage. Then check the
gauge indication.
As per FSM it should be checked with the car idling and it should show
approximately 245kPa (or 2.5Kg/sq.cm or 36psi) with the vacuum hose to the
intake manifold CONNECTED and 294 (3.0, 43) with the vacuum hose to the
intake manifold DIS-CONNECTED.

If they are OK then you should go to step 2 (hopefully someone else will
contribute what step 2 actually is.. :-)))

I believe that  option B) dyno with WB O2 sensor is the very last route you
should take.

Chris