From ianshannon97@msn.com  Mon Jan 21 02:07:59 2002
From: ianshannon97@msn.com (ianshannon97)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:07:59 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Radiator
Message-ID: <000c01c1a222$3d18ae60$3257c143@computer>

http://www.absoluteradiator.com/cgi-bin-store/SoftCart.100.exe/TheStore/p-KR14
47A.html?L+scstore+ngdf4734cartIDff06e706+1011578643
91 NX2000 with work.
97 Maxima SE, smooth and powerful automatic
http://www.angelfire.com/ny/ianjiggyroom/IansNX2000page.html

From yerry503@yahoo.com  Mon Jan 21 02:09:08 2002
From: yerry503@yahoo.com (Gerardo Mendez)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:09:08 -0600
Subject: Control arm
In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.0.20020119214301.00b5e100@mail.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20020121020906.92074.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com>

--- George Roffe <geo3@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Did they say *why* they thought you needed a new
> control arm?

Guys, I was in the same situation recently.
Fortunately, the alignment tech was experienced in
good customer service.  He asked me to come into the
service bay to see why he could not continue with the
alignment.  The right side control arm bushings were
nasty!  A prior power steering oil leak (previous
owner's fault) had disintegrated those bushings.  Now,
the tech didn't exactly explain the link between bad
bushings and a bad alignment.  But I knew that was the
actual cause of my SE-R's severe wandering.  Well, I
had the hi-pressure power steering hose replaced and
I've got new ES bushings on order. Oh, and the
alignment tech didn't charge me for getting the car up
on the rack.  Yup, I'll be going back there again.

=====
'92 black SE-R

From Qualudia101@aol.com  Mon Jan 21 02:12:18 2002
From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:12:18 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Radiator
Message-ID: <197.15e30c6.297cd300@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/20/2002 6:08:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ianshannon97@msn.com writes:

> Subj:Aluminum Radiator
> Date:1/20/2002 6:08:21 PM Pacific Standard Time
> From:<A HREF="mailto:ianshannon97@msn.com">ianshannon97@msn.com</A>
> To:<A HREF="mailto:se-r@lists.deskmedia.com">se-r@lists.deskmedia.com</A>
> Sent from the Internet

> http://www.absoluteradiator.com/cgi-bin-store/SoftCart.100.exe/TheStore/p-KR14
> 47A.html?L+scstore+ngdf4734cartIDff06e706+1011578643

Great: I've been wondering if someone made one for the B-13........appreciate
the info.

Frank 93 SE-R

From sr20de@optonline.net  Mon Jan 21 03:01:07 2002
From: sr20de@optonline.net (Chris Scarpulla)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:01:07 -0600
Subject: Test
References: <197.15e30c6.297cd300@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000701c1a227$dd5f7750$6601a8c0@COMPAQXP>

Test

From se-r@maverick.to  Mon Jan 21 03:26:53 2002
From: se-r@maverick.to (se-r@maverick.to)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:26:53 -0600
Subject: racing sentr 4 sale
Message-ID: <3C4BB442.51E03FF3@maverick.to>

http://www.bensrallypage.com/forsale/dumont_sentra.html

look at this as well

http://www.bensrallypage.com/forsale/drozd_mitsu.html
Fully converted '97 Mirage body into Evo IV with all original
components.

From geo3@earthlink.net  Mon Jan 21 03:32:42 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:32:42 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Radiator
In-Reply-To: <000c01c1a222$3d18ae60$3257c143@computer>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020120213341.00b689e0@mail.earthlink.net>

ianshannon97 wrote:

>http://www.absoluteradiator.com/cgi-bin-store/SoftCart.100.exe/TheStore/p-KR1447A.html?L+scstore+ngdf4734cartIDff06e706+1011578643

Well.....

Nice, but....

They are screwed up about the inlet/outlet placement for the JDM
engines.  They are applying S platform info to the B platform incorrectly.

Also, the price isn't so hot.  You can buy a GTi-R radiator for around that
price IIRC.

Instead, I think it should be possible to find a double row B13 radiator
that is aluminum with plastic tanks for under $200.  I haven't found one
yet, but I did for the P10.  It's mostly a matter of finding out who can
get them.  I've been looking.  Being in the aftermarket replacement parts
industry helps.  Most radiator companies use industry standard part
numbering so if someone can get the P/N for the double row radiator, it
only becomes a matter of finding someone who carries it in aluminum with
plastic tanks.  I used to have that number.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From gsr1997@msn.com  Mon Jan 21 03:40:47 2002
From: gsr1997@msn.com (gsr1997@msn.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:40:47 -0600
Subject: det engine swap
Message-ID: <OE121soBUEnIXy8smLQ0000cc89@hotmail.com>

whats up all i am new to the list and i just left the honda camp.
i just bought a 93 nx2000  w/116000 miles on the clock. the transmission
is fine as i just replaced the clutch w/ a ACT clutch i think street/strip
now the clutch engages about 3.5 to 4 inches off the floor, do i need to
adjust
the clutch cable? or replace it? got a quote from esserman nissan for $380
ouch! as i just replaced the starter for $492 with the tow, do these prices
sound high? and also i would like to know if any one knows of a recomendable
performance shop in the south florida area? i am cosidering a swap to the
sr20det. if any can help with information and mabey rough estimates  it will
be most appreciated.
and one note my NX  out handles my old (wrecked integra) and the integra was
heavily modified,also which is the best suspension setup for the car? stillen
pak or simmilar with gab shocks?

thanks,
jeff silver
and yes i know i need to change my email address

From gsr1997@msn.com  Mon Jan 21 03:42:15 2002
From: gsr1997@msn.com (gsr1997@msn.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:42:15 -0600
Subject: Fw: dash swap
Message-ID: <OE117aC3QwZABQP6bu70001c0a6@hotmail.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: gsr1997@msn.com
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 9:47 AM
To: sermaillist
Subject: dash swap

im just curious to know if the mid dash (were the stereo controls are and the
h-vac system) is interchangable between my 93 nx 2000 and a 95-98 200sx
i want to fit my double din stereo with out ripping the stock dash apart
any info and answers are appreiciated

jeff
93 nx 2000 116,000 (even stock these sleepers out handle my old(97) gs-r
stock for the moment
but always with a grin

From Samuel Bass" <achmiel@mindspring.com  Mon Jan 21 03:48:12 2002
From: Samuel Bass" <achmiel@mindspring.com (Samuel Bass)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:48:12 -0600
Subject: det engine swap
References: <OE121soBUEnIXy8smLQ0000cc89@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <02ed01c1a22e$5a13b1c0$8ebcfea9@ebox>

Welcome to the list! To answer your questions you should look to
www.se-r.net. You can also check the Archives at
http://www.se-r-list.org/archives/. And you can check out
www.sr20deforum.com.

Sam Bass
Largo, FL
98 SE-R with a few tricks

----- Original Message -----
From: <gsr1997@msn.com>
> whats up all i am new to the list and i just left the honda camp.

From clavaria@entelchile.net  Mon Jan 21 04:34:18 2002
From: clavaria@entelchile.net (Claudio Avaria S.)
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:34:18 -0600
Subject: ECU dyno testing
References: <000701c1a16c$e5db9f00$b47ba8c0@ci512616a>
Message-ID: <3C4B9AF8.3634EE9B@entelchile.net>

Isn't there a time needed for the ECU to compensate for the conditions? Like
when you install cams.. it's like one or two tanks of gas. I just bought my new
car and I broke it in for 1000 km without flooring it. Changed the oil and
began whacking it.. I raced a friend and of course he walked me easily, but a
couple of days later the situation was different, the car felt stronger and for
him it was much more difficult to walk me or even pass me.

My 2 cents...

Claudio
2002 QT1 Primera
HS CAI w/Stillen POP, WRX muffler, 16" OZ Racing F1 Cup with 205/45 Pilot MXX3,
G4 header waiting in the attic.

From brent102@hotmail.com  Mon Jan 21 06:21:41 2002
From: brent102@hotmail.com (Brent Barts)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:21:41 -0600
Subject: det engine swap
Message-ID: <LAW2-F18hHSeyWClfP000008362@hotmail.com>

Yeah, those prices are high.  I hope you got the mitsubishi starter and not
the hitachi one...bad things are to come with the hitachi.
You can turbo this car very easily...just depends on how much cabbage you
have and what you would like the car to do.  It can cost anywhere from about
2200-the skies the limit.
As for the suspension once again depends on what you want and how deep you
wallet is.
This is the first time i've said this-but the archives IS your friend.  I
garuntee that just about all your questions will be covered there.  Might
take a while to get used to it but once you do you won't hear this list
whinning as much.
Good luck and welcome to the list.
Brent
91 se-R gti-r Turbo near completion

>and yes i know i need to change my email address

Couldn't have said it better myself.

>+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
>The mailing list home page is http://www.se-r-list.org/
>To modify your subscription, go to http://lists.deskmedia.com/se-r/
>Visit, and contribute to, the FAQ: http://www.se-r-list.org/FAQ/

From brent102@hotmail.com  Mon Jan 21 06:35:20 2002
From: brent102@hotmail.com (Brent Barts)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:35:20 -0600
Subject: gti-r starter in se-R?
Message-ID: <LAW2-F18foV1qdiixjn00008384@hotmail.com>

Hi guys-does anyone know if the pulsar gti-r starter will work on our
se-R's?  It is the mitsubishi one and i would like to replace my squealing
hitahci unit with it.
The part number is 23300-79E10-pulsar and the NX2000 1991- 23300-63J10
Mitsubishi.
So the first part is the same but not the second.  I compared the two
flywheels side by side and they're identical.
Any ideas other than stick it in and find out?
Brent
91 se-R gti-r turbo in progress

From Aver99ex@aol.com  Mon Jan 21 07:08:13 2002
From: Aver99ex@aol.com (Aver99ex@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 01:08:13 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Radiator
Message-ID: <5f.2121a3b0.297d185a@aol.com>

What type of performance gains would you have if you upgrade to the aluminum
radiator?
-Dennis

From choaderboy2@yahoo.com  Mon Jan 21 07:27:01 2002
From: choaderboy2@yahoo.com (mike kojima)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 01:27:01 -0600
Subject: ECU dyno testing
In-Reply-To: <b4.537c613.297c679e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20020121072700.57074.qmail@web12208.mail.yahoo.com>

When dynoed correctly, the JWT ECU has been proven on
multiple occasions to give 3-5 wheel hp across the
board.

There are a whole bunch of factors that affect dyno
output even on the same vehicle back to back.

Mike

--- Nismo91ser@aol.com wrote:
> Well i remember when i dynoed my car..i added a
> friends JWT ECU with the S3
> program and it only gaind 1hp.

From jmotorsprt@yahoo.com  Mon Jan 21 11:34:19 2002
From: jmotorsprt@yahoo.com (Jason Gould)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 05:34:19 -0600
Subject: symptoms of a skipped timing chain
In-Reply-To: <4120021619215552130@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20020121113418.4691.qmail@web14401.mail.yahoo.com>

I had a similar problem with a Fuel Filter on a truck
and a Jumped timing belt tooth on a older 200SX

Jason

From SPechkoff@gfisystems.com  Mon Jan 21 13:26:11 2002
From: SPechkoff@gfisystems.com (Steve Pechkoff)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 07:26:11 -0600
Subject: SE-R On Motorweek
Message-ID: <51A55D1E2886D211B1540008C70918F601453F76@GFINTSRV>

Here's the show info!!!

MotorWeek #2121
With Host John Davis
PBS Broadcast Window Begins January 25, 2002
Episode Title: 2121/Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V

Roadtest of the Lexus IS300 5-spd./Sportcross
Roadtest of the Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V
Goss' Garage: Newer Than New Parts
FYI: Indy 500 Preparation
Long Term Roadtest Update: Suzuki XL7 & Mazda Tribute

>On Motorweek today (Saturday, Atlanta), they said they would test the
>SE-R next week, fyi.  They didn't say Spec V, so who knows.

From jmccoll@cch.ca  Mon Jan 21 14:25:19 2002
From: jmccoll@cch.ca (James McColl)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 08:25:19 -0600
Subject: Spec V parts
Message-ID: <4BCDBED43616D411A0DE006097D48C230129C1AA@raptor>

Hi,

I'm currently talking to a parts manufacturer here in Canada about the
possibility of making aftermarket parts (i.e., headers, exhausts, etc.) for
the new Spec V.

I need figures to convince them it will be worth their while to develop
parts for them.  Does anyone have figures for how many Spec V and regular
SE-Rs will and have been manufactured/sold?

Remember that parts made by a Canadian manufacturer should work out to be
especially good for you US guys, because your dollars have a very favourable
exchange right now (meaning the Canadian dollar is the lowest it's been in
years!).

I won't give the manufacturer's name yet, but it's a well-established
manufacturer that makes high-quality stuff.  It would be great if they made
parts for our community.

Any help would be much appreciated!  Please respond directly to this
address, not the list.

Thanks,
> James McColl

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Mon Jan 21 14:52:31 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 08:52:31 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Radiator
In-Reply-To: <5f.2121a3b0.297d185a@aol.com>
References: <5f.2121a3b0.297d185a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1011624946.22604.598.camel@pugelist>

On Mon, 2002-01-21 at 01:08, Aver99ex@aol.com wrote:

> What type of performance gains would you have if you upgrade to the aluminum
> radiator?

I never thought of a radiator upgrade as performance-enhancing, per se.
It's more of a safety/reliability upgrade, allowing you to run harder
longer.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From Leenahz@aol.com  Mon Jan 21 14:54:01 2002
From: Leenahz@aol.com (Leenahz@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 08:54:01 -0600
Subject: Coilovers? Opinions?
Message-ID: <138.80d1261.297d8585@aol.com>

I'm interested in purchasing coilovers for my 97 200sx, but I have have mixed
reviews of the different makes.  Ground Control is an obvious choice, but
like any other product, there has been conflicting opinions.  Does anyone
recommend another type of coilover over another?  Anyone familiar with H&R or
Dropzone?  Personal experience or hear say?  As with anyone, I do not want a
horribly bouncy ride.  My car is my daily driver and not used for any type of
racing.  Thank you to all who contributes with their words of wisdom : )

Lena

From Qualudia101@aol.com  Mon Jan 21 15:01:44 2002
From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:01:44 -0600
Subject: SE-R On Motorweek
Message-ID: <cd.11e2f159.297d874d@aol.com>

Does anyone know what time Pacific this will be on?

Frank 93 SE-R

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Mon Jan 21 15:05:47 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:05:47 -0600
Subject: Coilovers? Opinions?
In-Reply-To: <138.80d1261.297d8585@aol.com>
References: <138.80d1261.297d8585@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1011625742.22604.619.camel@pugelist>

On Mon, 2002-01-21 at 08:54, Leenahz@aol.com wrote:

> Ground Control is an obvious choice, but like any other product, there
> has been conflicting opinions.

Who's saying bad things about GC?  At any rate, GC on SE-R has a much
higher satisfaction rate than any other coilover company on any other
platform I've heard of.

> Anyone familiar with H&R or Dropzone?  Personal experience or hear say?

This is hearsay, but I've NEVER heard a good word said about DZ
coilovers from somebody who knows anything about suspension.  H&R,
knowing their racing background, probably isn't a *bad* choice, but
their SE-R offering is most likely not tuned as well as the GC kit.  I
sincerely doubt that it's suitable for street use at all.

> As with anyone, I do not want a horribly bouncy ride.

I'd bet that with your needs, this has more to do with your dampers than
your coilover springs.  Why mess with success?  GCs plus AGX adjustables
make for an excellent street suspension that also happens to kick a lot
of ass for a $900 total investment.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From BodyArt27@aol.com  Mon Jan 21 15:09:18 2002
From: BodyArt27@aol.com (BodyArt27@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:09:18 -0600
Subject: archives and h&r springs
Message-ID: <190.164d2cd.297d8919@aol.com>

At least on the Mercedes boards - H&R is the only choice (OK, not the only
choice but the popular choice for a lot of german cars). I would say they
make quality stuff - though I wonder if their expertise lies more on European
cars vs Japanese. Try Tire Rack - they carry the line and might be able to
tell you more.

shell
91 SE-R 140K miles
01 CLK55 3650 miles
Oo\=*=/oO

From joelw@mcdirect.com  Mon Jan 21 17:51:33 2002
From: joelw@mcdirect.com (Joel Ward)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:51:33 -0600
Subject: Powersteering Eliminator Installed!
Message-ID: <3C4C5848.B61D1E4E@mcdirect.com>

Well the first install is in! There is sooo much space now! Slow speed
steering effort is increased so as to make this not very practical for
everyday driving (Unless you want/have BIG forearms) but good for a
track car. It took me about 4 hours (only need a helper for a few
minutes) to remove and install the kit. The hardest part is getting the
stock stuff out intact. If you didn't care about the stock lines then
the install would be much quicker. The weight reduction was about
10-12lb. The stock size belt was used (all other pulleys were stock) so
I am not sure if a new belt would be needed for cars with UD pulleys.

For the 91-93 high port (install complete)
The price is $120  and the kit includes:
Aluminum block and spacer
OEM Nissan idler pulley
All necessary nuts, bolts (grade8.8), and lock washers

For the 200sx low port (no install yet)
This needs the 3 hole bracket from the 91-93. source your own or add $40

For the NX (no install yet)
I am checking to make sure all parts are the same as 91-93 sentra. If so
then $120

Joel W.
Random Thoughts Racing

From Diesel9154@aol.com  Mon Jan 21 18:50:17 2002
From: Diesel9154@aol.com (Diesel9154@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:50:17 -0600
Subject: Spec V parts
Message-ID: <13d.80dc99e.297dbce5@aol.com>

I have no idea how many were sold, but there were 9000 Spec V's produced and 17000 SE-Rs.

Joe

From alfonso_cortina@hotmail.com  Mon Jan 21 18:54:03 2002
From: alfonso_cortina@hotmail.com (Alfonso Cortina)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:54:03 -0600
Subject: Canadian members
Message-ID: <F227PmBIzJ9skB47qXL00001bcc@hotmail.com>

Howdy,

Canadian members, anyone know of a used pathfinder for sale?  early model,
86-87.

sorry for the spam.

alfonso

From SER2FAST@aol.com  Mon Jan 21 19:06:23 2002
From: SER2FAST@aol.com (SER2FAST@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:06:23 -0600
Subject: Tial Wastegate and Greddy BOV on E-Bay
Message-ID: <115.b3bdbcf.297dc02f@aol.com>

Here are the links for the 46mm Wastegate and Greddy BOV on E-Bay.

<A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600839979">46mm Wastegate</A>

<A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600841728">Greddy Type R Blow Off Valve</A>

Ben
ser2fast@aol.com

From lhong@ybust.edu.cn  Mon Jan 21 20:23:27 2002
From: lhong@ybust.edu.cn (Linus Hong)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:23:27 -0600
Subject: Parts Prices
Message-ID: <20020121202324.19910.qmail@web20002.mail.yahoo.com>

Hey Guys,
Are the courtesyparts.com prices with the discount for
list memebers.  Is there still a discount for list
members?  Have I been out of the loop too long?
Someone let me know what's and where to find the deals
on OEM and aftermarket parts.  You can also email me
privately to save the guys who have discussed this a
dozen times another thread on this.

I've been on the list for a whole but took a 2 year
leave working overseas so i used to be in the know but
now I am very out of date on things.

TIA
Linus

From jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com  Mon Jan 21 20:49:58 2002
From: jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com (Jason Garrett Young)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:49:58 -0600
Subject: 95-2000 tranny to fit a B13.????
References: <F225EiffC8aH5qRFapN0000554a@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <008d01c1a2bd$0bdc7340$ce36a93f@hppav>

you put a 1.6L in your 2L?  and then put a se-r tranny on it?

Jason Garrett Young
JGY Customs
MT. EMPIRE INDUSTRIAL PARK
P. O. BOX 550 ATKINS, VA 24311
Ph: (540) 783-2688 cell (540) 379-1848 Fax: (253) 660 8740
SR20DE(T) installs and parts
Sentra/G20/240sx performance
jasongyoung@jgycustoms.com
www.jgycustoms.com
We sell Enkei wheels at SUPER DISCOUNT PRICES.
We also carry the complete line of ACT clutches.

> <I know that the 1.6L can fit the B13 but i don't know about the newer
<yrs.
> <Thank you.

> When I was doing my 1.6l swap to my 2.0l swap on my 91 Sentra I put on a
96
> 200sx se-r and it fit perfectly.

From LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com  Mon Jan 21 22:33:12 2002
From: LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com (LDMartin)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:33:12 -0600
Subject: SE-R On Motorweek
References: <cd.11e2f159.297d874d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006e01c1a28e$09071780$be4ec943@LarryMartin>

>Subject: Re: SE-R On Motorweek
> Does anyone know what time Pacific this will be on?

You can probably check PBS.org for local showings.  Or Speedvision.com on
which it appears also.

Larry Martin
'92 Classic

From probedude@hotmail.com  Mon Jan 21 23:06:14 2002
From: probedude@hotmail.com (probedude)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:06:14 -0600
Subject: Parts Prices
References: <20020121202324.19910.qmail@web20002.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <OE46B8nrhYMn59tUVQa000139b0@hotmail.com>

I've been buying my OEM parts from Infiniti of Scottdale (AZ).
They give a straight 25% off all list prices (Courtesy is up to 25% but not
on everything) and for me, shipping from AZ is cheaper and faster (normal
UPS ground is 2-day).  You can get their information from the www.se-r.net
website under dealers.

Dave

From segoy@firesermon.com  Tue Jan 22 00:23:10 2002
From: segoy@firesermon.com (Matthew T. Blackmon)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:23:10 -0600
Subject: Horrible grinding noise - next in saga
Message-ID: <004301c1a2db$08daa950$32ffa8c0@wintermute>

 OK, so I have this horrible grinding noise in one of my rotors.  Another
 Matt mentioned that I should try pulling back the dust shield.

 So tonight I put the car up, and pop off the driver's side tyre and wheel.
But what's this?  With the caliper bolted in place, there is play betwee the
caliper and torque member!  Like maybe a 1/4 inch!

It's been a long time since I've changed the brakes on a car, but I would
swear I don't remember seeing this before.

 Please someone tell me I'm smoking bananas.

M

From mena.ka@verizon.net  Tue Jan 22 01:46:18 2002
From: mena.ka@verizon.net (Mena Aqenenni)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 19:46:18 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <4120021619223227230@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <002c01c1a2e6$60dda200$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>

> > Alot of people are wondering why you would drop $2k for a
> VE, when you can get a DET for less.

Consider that you'll need and an exhaust fab'd up and a Wolf ECU for the
DET and, if you want to make more than stock power, a front-mounted
intercooler and boost controller. That will cost you closer to $3000.

Mena
92 Classic
01 G20t

From ser@luminus.cx  Tue Jan 22 02:18:57 2002
From: ser@luminus.cx (Aaron K)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:18:57 -0600
Subject: raise nx seats or lower sentra seats
Message-ID: <GIEALGDPLPCAPPLGMOEBCEPBDHAA.ser@luminus.cx>

So I posted this in the web based forum:

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11913

Anyone that is looking to lower their sentra seats a bit or raise the nx
seats can swap the seat rails from the two cars with no problems at all.

Aaron
6'6" now riding a bit lower...

From SKRRacing@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 02:38:58 2002
From: SKRRacing@aol.com (SKRRacing@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:38:58 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Radiator
Message-ID: <187.221924d.297e2abf@aol.com>

There is already a really nice radiator
for the B13 Chassis. Courtesy Nissan sells
the Nismo unit for $378.23 this also includes
a higher than stock radiator cap 16.8 psi
compared to 12.6 psi.

Bill Ellenburg
93 SE-R Classic
95 240SX

From Qualudia101@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 02:42:28 2002
From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:42:28 -0600
Subject: SE-R On Motorweek
Message-ID: <196.16dde8a.297e2b8f@aol.com>

Thanks....I will

Frank 93 SE-R

From SKRRacing@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 02:43:58 2002
From: SKRRacing@aol.com (SKRRacing@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:43:58 -0600
Subject: NASA event in Ft. Worth
Message-ID: <c6.5440729.297e2beb@aol.com>

George,

 I talked with you a little before
about possibly helping out in the pits
if you and Grover come to this event.
Are you still coming and also is anyone
else planning to attend?

Bill Ellenburg
93 SE-R Classic
95 240SX

From geo3@earthlink.net  Tue Jan 22 02:51:39 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:51:39 -0600
Subject: NASA event in Ft. Worth
In-Reply-To: <c6.5440729.297e2beb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020121205504.00ccb800@mail.earthlink.net>

Bill, SKRRacing@aol.com wrote:

>George,

>I talked with you a little before about possibly helping out in the pits
>if you and Grover come to this event.  Are you still coming and also is
>anyone else planning to attend?

Sorry, I've been checking into it.  Looks like I'll be attending.  Grover
definitely will be.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From DSwtFlip4U@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 03:13:43 2002
From: DSwtFlip4U@aol.com (DSwtFlip4U@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:13:43 -0600
Subject: NASA event in Ft. Worth
Message-ID: <16e.7836a2e.297e32dc@aol.com>

where in Ft. WORTH is this event? I would be willing to go .   I am Bryan by
the way from Dallas.

Bryan

From geo3@earthlink.net  Tue Jan 22 03:27:11 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:27:11 -0600
Subject: NASA event in Ft. Worth
In-Reply-To: <16e.7836a2e.297e32dc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020121213047.00ccea50@mail.earthlink.net>

Bryan, DSwtFlip4U@aol.com wrote:

>where in Ft. WORTH is this event? I would be willing to go .   I am Bryan by
>the way from Dallas.

It's at Motorsports Ranch where we held the Driver Education (DE) for the
convention.

<http://www.motorsportranch.com/index.htm>

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From 93SER@attbi.com  Tue Jan 22 03:37:14 2002
From: 93SER@attbi.com (Mike Jez)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:37:14 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <002c01c1a2e6$60dda200$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>
Message-ID: <003101c1a2f6$23072590$e7fef80c@CB795824B>

Blahh..I am working on a VQ30DE install in a B13...as soon as I find a good
shell I am going to tear the pavement up with a "stroker" VQ30 motor with
close to 400HP NA :) I have seen Gen II VQs for around 1200 bux in my
area..why DETized when I can have something more exotic-aka unique in my car
??
Mike Jez
01 Maxima- 4 sale
93 SE-R Turbo
91-94 B13 in future with big plans- huge budget.

From edo@power.net  Tue Jan 22 04:05:16 2002
From: edo@power.net (Ron Acevedo)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:05:16 -0600
Subject: `97 Turbo SE-R on ebay
References: <115.b3bdbcf.297dc02f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <021701c1a2fa$f4edbf70$6e00a8c0@VAIO>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600874100

From ianshannon97@webtv.net  Tue Jan 22 04:16:26 2002
From: ianshannon97@webtv.net (No one here!)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:16:26 -0600
Subject: Local geek/meet in Brooklyn this Sunday
Message-ID: <16916-3C4CE799-2862@storefull-215.iap.bryant.webtv.net>

Details are on the www.sr20deforum.com in the N/E section.
Roll-Mod-L is having a meet at his shop this Sunday. He is an authorized
HS dealer so you may get some good deals that day.
Auto Spa
(718)272-0321
Dexter. He is the guy who has a car that looks like Brian Changs with
the Mexican headlights. So far the attendance looks good, maybe a little
too many people. :>)

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 05:57:46 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 23:57:46 -0600
Subject: `97 Turbo SE-R on ebay
In-Reply-To: <021701c1a2fa$f4edbf70$6e00a8c0@VAIO>
References: <115.b3bdbcf.297dc02f@aol.com>
 <021701c1a2fa$f4edbf70$6e00a8c0@VAIO>
Message-ID: <1011679261.23710.704.camel@pugelist>

On Mon, 2002-01-21 at 22:05, Ron Acevedo wrote:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600874100

Between the picture of the engine bay and the claimed 409HP, I'd bet a
cold one that's Jay Hassinger's old ride.  "Reserve not yet met..."

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From brent102@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 06:21:09 2002
From: brent102@hotmail.com (Brent Barts)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 00:21:09 -0600
Subject: Pilot bushing replacement-should i bother?
Message-ID: <LAW2-F100VtNfLMZRZU00002fc7@hotmail.com>

Hi all again...considering the pilot bushing doesn't do anything...should i
bother replacing it?  Anyone ever find out if there is a main shaft that
uses this thing?!!
Brent

From tapaule@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 06:36:47 2002
From: tapaule@yahoo.com (Tom Paule)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 00:36:47 -0600
Subject: [SoCal-SERCA] Re: Powersteering Eliminator Installed!
In-Reply-To: <20020122044952.54085.qmail@web12202.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20020122063646.75855.qmail@web13408.mail.yahoo.com>

The Random Thoughts Racing Power Steering Removal Kit
is in the car and I really like it. I drove the car up
Azusa Canyon's West fork (which is about 30 miles of
twisty cali canyon) and I must say the car is still a
joy to drive. At first I was unsure if I liked it or
not. I haven't driven a car with manual steering (even
my old Ford Bronco has power steering), so initially I
was a little surprised by the level of increased
effort the steering had. Unless I'm manuvering in a
parking lot and I forgot about no PS, it's not bad at
all. The hardest part to get used to is the increased
level of effort after turn in. I guess I anticipated
the increase effort for initial turn in, but the
increased level when in a turn was more than I
expected. The good news is the level of effort is not
too high to be a problem, it just takes some getting
used to. That and when on the brakes hard the steering
effort raises, too. But these are subtle things that I
can easily adjust to. The car is not as easy to
"flick" into tight bends, but I will never need to
worry about the fluid boiling and having variable
effort steering, either :-)

It also cleared up a *lot* of real estate on the
passenger side of the car, so working on things will
be easier (changing the oil filter become a snap!).

The best part is the pully and bearing assembly is OEM
Nissan, so not only is it top notch, but you can order
it from the dealer in the event it fails (Joel made
the piece that replaces the PS pump and acted as the
tensioner for the water pump).

I'd say it frees up a few hp along the way, too.

So in review, it gives good feel of the road, gives
honest feedback through the wheel, has a top-notch OEM
Nissan pulley, looks bitchin', frees up a few pounds
and a couple ponies, and eliminates the
overheating-prone-variable-effort-power-steering
system and it's pretty inexpensive too!

I'd also go so far as to say it's not unbearable for a
daily driver, but this is a *must* for a race car.

Drop Joel a line and get in line to buy one before the
season starts!

Tom Paule

From sylvain_laplante@yahoo.ca  Tue Jan 22 11:48:32 2002
From: sylvain_laplante@yahoo.ca (Sylvain Laplante)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 05:48:32 -0600
Subject: Removing air conditioning...
Message-ID: <20020122114831.14169.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com>

Hi all,
   I am new to this list and I should have subscribed way before since I am the
current owner of a 95 se-r and it could have helped me enjoy ( and fix ) my car
more. Anyway this will become a thing of the past soon since I just ordered a
2002 se-r that I should have in a month.

   My question is about removing the air conditioning system, I didn't want it
but it comes standard with the car. Since we only have 3-4 weeks of really hot
weather up here and I've never had a need for this before I was considering
removing it and just keep it for when I sell the car. Is it something easy to
remove? will there be a noticeable performance gain ( torque and HP ) ?

   Lastly, I don't know if you have it in the stetes, but mu 95 had a speed
limitor which cuts the engine once it reached 180km/hr ( about 112mph ). Is
there still such a thing on the new engines? and if so, how to disable it?

Thanks
Sylvain Laplante
1995 red SE-R
2002 silver SE-R  ( I can't wait! )

______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca

From david@b15sentra.net  Tue Jan 22 12:30:29 2002
From: david@b15sentra.net (David Evans)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 06:30:29 -0600
Subject: `97 Turbo SE-R on ebay
References: <115.b3bdbcf.297dc02f@aol.com>
 <021701c1a2fa$f4edbf70$6e00a8c0@VAIO>
 <1011679261.23710.704.camel@pugelist>
Message-ID: <026801c1a340$776f6cb0$5500a8c0@david>

Yep you hit the nail on the head.  Ron bought Jay's car.

BTW, Ron why are you selling it now?  Are you selling it as is, meaning just
boosting to 10psi or so or will it be fixed first?

    -=david

> Between the picture of the engine bay and the claimed 409HP, I'd bet a
> cold one that's Jay Hassinger's old ride.  "Reserve not yet met..."

From jsteeves@g20.net  Tue Jan 22 13:12:14 2002
From: jsteeves@g20.net (Jason Steeves)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 07:12:14 -0600
Subject: Hotshot tubular turbo manifold
Message-ID: <20020122131213.COKD2388.femail2.sdc1.sfba.home.com@there>

Anyone have any opinions on the new Hotshot tubular turbo manifold?

http://64.38.203.52/temp/hotshot/images/NS6001.jpg

--
Jason Steeves
1999 G20t
www.g20.net

From sr20de@epix.net  Tue Jan 22 14:08:16 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:08:16 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <002c01c1a2e6$60dda200$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>
Message-ID: <3C4D7260.51C7B41A@epix.net>

Mena Aqenenni wrote:

> Consider that you'll need and an exhaust fab'd up and a Wolf ECU for the
> DET and, if you want to make more than stock power, a front-mounted
> intercooler and boost controller. That will cost you closer to $3000.

Wrong, wrong and wrong.  The only thing you need is a downpipe.
You can use the stock DET ECU as many are.  And you can even get away
with using the stock exhaust, wouldn't recommend it but you can.
Kits to mount the interheater up frount are available now and I
don't think cost much at all.  A boost controller is not necessary.

A stock DET will be way faster then a stock VE.  You have to
remember the VE still has little torque compared to the DET.

Now lets talk about that boost controller you mentioned.  Hmm
about $250 and you've added probably 20-30whp to your car.
Spend $250 on the VE and what do you get?  Probably 2-3whp.

RK

From jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com  Tue Jan 22 14:25:12 2002
From: jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com (Jason Garrett Young)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:25:12 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <002c01c1a2e6$60dda200$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>
 <003101c1a2f6$23072590$e7fef80c@CB795824B>
Message-ID: <003f01c1a34e$5568e980$cd36a93f@hppav>

quit talking and build it

> Blahh..I am working on a VQ30DE install in a B13...
> Mike Jez

From christian.beaudry@TetraTec.qc.ca  Tue Jan 22 14:39:19 2002
From: christian.beaudry@TetraTec.qc.ca (Christian Beaudry)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:39:19 -0600
Subject: B14 to B15 Pin-out SR20DE (std)
Message-ID: <1E96B377F180D4119BA100508BADCA7E211093@TETRASVR>

OK Here it is.

Trav4011 from B15sentra.net has done all the hard work.
But its finaly here.

This is the work Trav4011 did :

http://a6.cpimg.com/image/EC/41/8318956-e4a8-014D0200-.jpg

http://a3.cpimg.com/image/FD/41/8318973-d786-01BD01BB-.jpg

These are from the FSM :

B14 Harness
http://a4.cpimg.com/image/08/42/8318984-161c-028001E0-.jpg

B15 Harness
http://a9.cpimg.com/image/0D/42/8318989-df22-028001E0-.jpg

Now all we need is a company to fabricate an EASY-Plug :) for the b15 ppl.
Nonetheless, I'll be re-arranging the pins before the end of spring, and
splapping another ECU in there. Thinking about a G20 ECU while Im waiting
for a JWT one.

Chris

From jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com  Tue Jan 22 14:39:44 2002
From: jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com (Jason Garrett Young)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:39:44 -0600
Subject: Hotshot tubular turbo manifold
References: <20020122131213.COKD2388.femail2.sdc1.sfba.home.com@there>
Message-ID: <000d01c1a352$4f0296a0$cd36a93f@hppav>

2 of them

1. That manifold is not for our cars.  The bolt pattern is WAY off for a
SR20DE.

2.  What turbo uses a oval/circle flange?  Not any t25, t28, or t3 that I
have seen.

> Anyone have any opinions on the new Hotshot tubular turbo manifold?
> http://64.38.203.52/temp/hotshot/images/NS6001.jpg
> Jason Steeves

From jsteeves@g20.net  Tue Jan 22 14:55:25 2002
From: jsteeves@g20.net (Jason Steeves)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:55:25 -0600
Subject: Hotshot tubular turbo manifold
In-Reply-To: <000d01c1a352$4f0296a0$cd36a93f@hppav>
References: <20020122131213.COKD2388.femail2.sdc1.sfba.home.com@there>
 <000d01c1a352$4f0296a0$cd36a93f@hppav>
Message-ID: <20020122145523.LEJJ20810.femail29.sdc1.sfba.home.com@there>

On January 22, 2002 09:39 am, Jason Garrett Young wrote:
> 1. That manifold is not for our cars.  The bolt pattern is WAY off for a
> SR20DE.

OK then follow this link:
http://64.38.203.52/temp/hotshot/products_turbos.htm
and go to the bottom and click on the SE-R turbo Manifold link and take it up
with Hotshot!

So, potentially incorrect image aside.  Would this be the new tubular turbo
manifold I've heard about or are they still using the one pictured here?
http://64.38.203.52/temp/hotshot/graphics/img_turbo.jpg

--
Jason Steeves
1999 G20t
www.g20.net

From Qualudia101@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 15:02:09 2002
From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:02:09 -0600
Subject: Smog Test
Message-ID: <55.2144987c.297ed8ec@aol.com>

Just for the record........... Had problems recently passing idle test ,and
the only performance add since last time was JWT ECU.

Turned out to be  the 02 sensor.

Just want to clear up any question about JWT's ECU affecting the results.
Best single performance add on I've made.

Frank 93 SE-R

From TurbochargedSER@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 15:07:13 2002
From: TurbochargedSER@aol.com (TurbochargedSER@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:07:13 -0600
Subject: Turbo Parts For Sale!!!!!
Message-ID: <195.16f2d68.297eda1b@aol.com>

Hello Everyone-

I have a few Items that I am looking to get rid of. Here is a list along with
my *ASKING* price!

FMAX Manifold - $500.00
- Tapped for Greddy EGT Guage fitting, has EGR Port, HPC Coated, Flanged for
Deltagate or Tial 35mm
*DOES NOT INCLUDE EGT PROBE OR FITTING*

Turbonetics Deltagate Wastegate - $100.00
- Recently rebuilt w/ new diaphram and 10-13 psi spring

IC Piping - $200.00
- Powder Coated Blue, Flanged for Greddy Type "S" or "R" BOV, has port for
recirculation.
Includes compressor discharge-intercooler inlet, intercooler outlet-Throttle
body, & Cobra MAF-Compressor inlet pipe. Was used with Spearco Core # 2-178.

*DOES NOT INCLUDE COBRA MAF*

You can see pictures @

http://www.apexser.freeservers.com/fmax1.jpg

http://www.apexser.freeservers.com/fmax2.jpg

Louis Anaya

From geo3@earthlink.net  Tue Jan 22 15:23:25 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (geo3@earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:23:25 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <RELAY2gbiL0Dd3994RZ00001487@relay2.softcomca.com>

Raymond A. Kawski sr20de@epix.net wrote:

>You can use the stock DET ECU as many are.

Some people have had no troubles and some have.

Then, of course, you are assuming the ECU comes with the engine.  Doesn't
always happen.

As for the downpipe, just the components for my mandrel bent downpipe cost
close to $100 and I put it together myself.  But, I suppose you could have Joe
Monkey build you a crush bent one for about that.

>A stock DET will be way faster then a stock VE.  You have to
>remember the VE still has little torque compared to the DET.

Anybody have a dyno plot of a stock VE?  You cannot just go by peak figures.
I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'd want to see the plots before making that
statement.  I would expect the DET to put out more torque, but I'm not sure
I'd say the VE has little torque in comparison without the plots.  But, of
course, you may have already seen them and I'll just be quiet. :-)

>Now lets talk about that boost controller you mentioned.  Hmm
>about $250 and you've added probably 20-30whp to your car.
>Spend $250 on the VE and what do you get?  Probably 2-3whp.

Maybe someone only wants around 200 bhp.  I certainly have no interest in
running a boost controller on my car.  I like it very much as it is and don't
feel the need to put down more hp with it.  I'll eventually change out the
exhaust and let it breath a bit better and in fact, would rather spent the
money on the exhaust than a boost controller.

Turbo snob. ;-)

George Roffe
Turd Rex

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 15:28:35 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:28:35 -0600
Subject: Hotshot tubular turbo manifold
Message-ID: <F96WBZwO0L1TQ3HQzU00000b349@hotmail.com>

"Jason Garrett Young" <jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com> wrote:

>2.  What turbo uses a oval/circle flange?

KKK and MHI

Rob

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 15:34:54 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:34:54 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <F404kcltA05BqSyu3be00001c65@hotmail.com>

"Raymond A. Kawski" <sr20de@epix.net> wrote:

>Wrong, wrong and wrong.  The only thing you need is a downpipe.
>You can use the stock DET ECU as many are.  And you can even get away
>with using the stock exhaust, wouldn't recommend it but you can.
>Kits to mount the interheater up frount are available now and I
>don't think cost much at all.  A boost controller is not necessary.

That setup will make about 160 hp at the wheels, max.  The stock
exhaust/interheater deal sucks.  A VE will make more power.  Hell, my car
makes more power (less torque, though).

The VE is a good deal for people who want to stay NA.  I/H/E/ECU/UDP and C3
cams get you 170 whp without passing emissions and with highly compromised
drivability.  This setup will set you back about $2500.  That makes a VE
swap look pretty good.  A VE with an exhaust and an ECU should make the same
power or a little more, with more torque and better drivability.

You can never beat a turbo for hp/$, but if you can get a VE for $1000,
you're getting a good bargain.

Rob

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 15:48:19 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:48:19 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <RELAY2gbiL0Dd3994RZ00001487@relay2.softcomca.com>
References: <RELAY2gbiL0Dd3994RZ00001487@relay2.softcomca.com>
Message-ID: <1011714693.25565.13.camel@pugelist>

On Tue, 2002-01-22 at 09:23, geo3@earthlink.net wrote:

> As for the downpipe, just the components for my mandrel bent downpipe cost
> close to $100 and I put it together myself.  But, I suppose you could have Joe
> Monkey build you a crush bent one for about that.

YIKES.  I just ran the numbers for a full exhaust system (aluminized
steel), and I managed to get everything from the manifold flange to the
tailpipe (except for the cat) for under $200.  I could have done it in
stainless for about $350.  That's U-Weld-It, though, which I can handle;
some people can't.

> Anybody have a dyno plot of a stock VE?

I wanna' see, too.

> Maybe someone only wants around 200 bhp.

I could *so* cope with only 200 bhp.  I know I'd want more, but that'd
at least keep me running with the other 2700-lb+, 200-hp- cars on the
road...

> I certainly have no interest in running a boost controller on my car.

That's one point I disagree on, but I'm just a kid with nothing better
to do with my time than fiddle with the Scramble button until I have the
boost maps absolutely maxed-out. :)

> Turbo snob. ;-)

Now now, play nicely. :^)

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From sr20de@epix.net  Tue Jan 22 16:03:31 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:03:31 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <F404kcltA05BqSyu3be00001c65@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C4D8D5E.2F466571@epix.net>

Rob Cadle wrote:

> That setup will make about 160 hp at the wheels, max.  The stock
> exhaust/interheater deal sucks.  A VE will make more power.  Hell, my car
> makes more power (less torque, though).

Whats a stock VE make at the wheels?

> You can never beat a turbo for hp/$,

My point exactly!

> but if you can get a VE for $1000, you're getting a good bargain.

There aren't enough VE's in the states yet.  When there are it
will be a good upgrade.  But IMO we need more on these shores before
it will be cheap.  I know of only 1 SR20VE on the road, Carl's.
If people want to be innovative and get VE's more power to them.

But I still think the DET is a better value at this point.

RK

From sr20de@epix.net  Tue Jan 22 16:05:34 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:05:34 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <RELAY2gbiL0Dd3994RZ00001487@relay2.softcomca.com>
Message-ID: <3C4D8DDB.CB6A29C1@epix.net>

"geo3@earthlink.net" wrote:

> Anybody have a dyno plot of a stock VE?  You cannot just go by
  little torque in comparison without the plots.  But, of course,
> you may have already seen them and I'll just be quiet. :-)

I had a better one before.  Carl doesn't have it on his website
but he had the link to the new one.

http://www.nissan.co.jp/PRIMERA/P12/0108/20V/DATA/MECHANISM/index.html

Couldn't find a stock det plot quick.

> Maybe someone only wants around 200 bhp.  I certainly have
> no interest in running a boost controller on my car.  I like

Yeah thats what they all say. :)

> money on the exhaust than a boost controller.

Again more cheap HP.  :)

> Turbo snob. ;-)

Uh huh.

RK

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 16:21:08 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:21:08 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <3C4D8D5E.2F466571@epix.net>
References: <F404kcltA05BqSyu3be00001c65@hotmail.com>
 <3C4D8D5E.2F466571@epix.net>
Message-ID: <1011716661.25565.39.camel@pugelist>

On Tue, 2002-01-22 at 10:03, Raymond A. Kawski wrote:

> But IMO we need more on these shores before it will be cheap.

Aren't there some P11/VE cars in South America?  It's quite possible
that getting an engine/ECU from Japan could be cheaper at this point,
but you've got to look at every option to really know which one is best.

> But I still think the DET is a better value at this point.

I'm not going to say that it isn't.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 16:23:55 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:23:55 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <3C4D8DDB.CB6A29C1@epix.net>
References: <RELAY2gbiL0Dd3994RZ00001487@relay2.softcomca.com>
 <3C4D8DDB.CB6A29C1@epix.net>
Message-ID: <1011716828.25565.42.camel@pugelist>

On Tue, 2002-01-22 at 10:05, Raymond A. Kawski wrote:

> http://www.nissan.co.jp/PRIMERA/P12/0108/20V/DATA/MECHANISM/index.html

Thanks to the wonder of Flash, I can zoom in on that graph and actually
read it.  I still can't read Japanese, though, so can you tell me what
those scales are in?  HP or PS, N/m or lb/ft?

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From joelw@mcdirect.com  Tue Jan 22 16:26:09 2002
From: joelw@mcdirect.com (Joel Ward)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:26:09 -0600
Subject: Need NX seat rails
Message-ID: <3C4D95CA.21F9CAB1@mcdirect.com>

I need a pair of NX drivers side seat rails. Also plastic pieces would
be great. TIA

Joel W.
RTR

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 16:28:58 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:28:58 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <1011716828.25565.42.camel@pugelist>
References: <RELAY2gbiL0Dd3994RZ00001487@relay2.softcomca.com>
 <3C4D8DDB.CB6A29C1@epix.net>  <1011716828.25565.42.camel@pugelist>
Message-ID: <1011717132.25566.47.camel@pugelist>

On Tue, 2002-01-22 at 10:23, Jon Pennington wrote:

> HP or PS, N/m or lb/ft?

Oh, damn.  I can't believe I asked that question.  Kw and Nm is the
answer by the way...

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From alaivins@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 16:39:10 2002
From: alaivins@yahoo.com (Andris Laivins)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:39:10 -0600
Subject: Hotshot tubular turbo manifold
In-Reply-To: <F96WBZwO0L1TQ3HQzU00000b349@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <IBEMKDGNEFNOAOBGOIJNAELHDEAA.alaivins@yahoo.com>

> Anyone have any opinions on the new Hotshot tubular turbo manifold?
> http://64.38.203.52/temp/hotshot/images/NS6001.jpg

> >2.  What turbo uses a oval/circle flange?

> KKK and MHI

That is not the new manifold, nor anything for a sr20. That is a focus ZX2
header.  I think the web guy that did the site must have made a mistake when
sorting images.   The new manifold in the works is much more sweet than that
one:)

Andris

From geo3@earthlink.net  Tue Jan 22 17:18:03 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (geo3@earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:18:03 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <RELAY2qFHTDhtWrwuVj00002051@relay2.softcomca.com>

Jon Pennington cowboydren@yahoo.com wrote:

>YIKES.  I just ran the numbers for a full exhaust system (aluminized
>steel), and I managed to get everything from the manifold flange to the
>tailpipe (except for the cat) for under $200.

Hmmm.  You need mandrel bends, a flex pipe (not cheap), flanges, pipe (more
expensive than you might think), muffler.  I suppose it's possible to do it
that cheaply if price is the only concern.

George

From geo3@earthlink.net  Tue Jan 22 17:22:15 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (geo3@earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:22:15 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <RELAY38BylrQa7kaHvH00002dc1@relay3.softcomca.com>

Raymond A. Kawski <sr20de@epix.net> wrote:

>> Maybe someone only wants around 200 bhp.  I certainly have >
> no interest in running a boost controller on my car.  I like

>Yeaht thats what they all say. :)

Watch me.

I would be *very* surprised if I put a boost controller on my car.  I don't
really have the interest.  I like it as is, but I can tell that it needs to
breath a little easier.

George Roffe
Turbos blow ;-)

From subculture@speedracer.com  Tue Jan 22 17:40:38 2002
From: subculture@speedracer.com (Thomas Fox)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:40:38 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <200201221740.g0MHeZH01697@mail11.bigmailbox.com>

[demime could not interpret encoding binary - treating as plain text]
> "Rob Cadle" <robcadle@hotmail.com>
<snip>

> I/H/E/ECU/UDP and C3
>cams get you 170 whp without passing
>emissions...

I thought "C" series cams could pass emissions.

Thomas Fox
'93 NX2000
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/napsz/start.html

Speed Racer's Official Virtual Pit Stop.
http://www.speedracerdsl.com/speedracer/

From McDaddi007@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 18:15:17 2002
From: McDaddi007@aol.com (McDaddi007@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:15:17 -0600
Subject: Turbo Kit
Message-ID: <46.213f0ad1.297f0630@aol.com>

Can someone tell me where I can find a turbo kit that will fit my 2002 Infiniti G20?

Michael
'02 G20

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 18:24:46 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:24:46 -0600
Subject: Turbo Kit
In-Reply-To: <46.213f0ad1.297f0630@aol.com>
References: <46.213f0ad1.297f0630@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1011724081.25565.60.camel@pugelist>

On Tue, 2002-01-22 at 12:15, McDaddi007@aol.com wrote:

> Can someone tell me where I can find a turbo kit that will fit my 2002 Infiniti G20?

You're not helping yourself much. :)  The P11 doesn't have a *readily*
available kit yet.  You may talk to Hotshot about adapting one of their
kits to the P11, but you're *starting* at nearly $4k in parts, which is
over the budget you and I privately discussed.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From stevefoltz@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 18:47:12 2002
From: stevefoltz@hotmail.com (Steve Foltz)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:47:12 -0600
Subject: Coilovers? Opinions?
Message-ID: <F81ArVc4Iu1B6gVs1tI000118ba@hotmail.com>

>>I'm interested in purchasing coilovers for my 97 200sx, but I have have
>>mixed
>reviews of the different makes.  Ground Control is an obvious choice,

Check out both these sites.
http://www.se-r.net/about/200sx/scc/jan98/january.html
http://www.sentra.net/tech/garage
I have the ground control setup + Konis and can tell you from my experience
that you can't lower the car more then an inch without bottoming.  I was
able the get 1.75 inches by using GC camber/caster plates.  IMHO if you want
more then 1.75 inch drop look at the motivational setup.  I am very happy
with my 1.75 inch drop and my GC/koni's.  AGX's and GC would be good also
but unless you go above the 300/200 setup my thoughts are on bumpy roads it
would bottom out just like the Konis if set to low (approx 1 inch).  IMHO
"if" you go with the GC setup cut off the existing perch and weld on there
perch for a more solid platform and cleaner look.  It helps reduce squeaks
and looks much better.

Steve
98 Sentra Se
GC Kit plus plates, Koni's

From bkoko001@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 19:08:46 2002
From: bkoko001@yahoo.com (Brian Kokoska)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:08:46 -0600
Subject: Oil pressure switch leak
Message-ID: <20020122190845.98815.qmail@web14604.mail.yahoo.com>

I recently discovered the source of my oil leak, which
turned out to be the oil pressure sending unit or "oil
pressure switch."  Props to Rick and www.zotz.com.
The updated part number is 25240-89960.  Easy
procedure, cost was $15 from local dealer.  I used a 1
1/16 deep well socket.  I found that a twelve point
socket wouldn't work but a 6 point would.
Brian

=====
92 SE-R w/ mods

From choaderboy2@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 19:19:42 2002
From: choaderboy2@yahoo.com (mike kojima)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:19:42 -0600
Subject: Hotshot tubular turbo manifold
In-Reply-To: <000d01c1a352$4f0296a0$cd36a93f@hppav>
Message-ID: <20020122191940.96182.qmail@web12207.mail.yahoo.com>

I agree with JGY, that is not the Hotshot manifold.  I
saw the prototype this weekend and it looks much
better than that!

It is a pulse converter design with better length on
the primarys.

Mike

--- Jason Garrett Young

> 1. That manifold is not for our cars.  The bolt
> pattern is WAY off for a
> SR20DE.

> 2.  What turbo uses a oval/circle flange?  Not any
> t25, t28, or t3 that I
> have seen.

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 19:20:56 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:20:56 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <F33clVXOK7S8MyBuN6Q0000107b@hotmail.com>

"Raymond A. Kawski" <sr20de@epix.net> wrote:

>Whats a stock VE make at the wheels?

I dunno.  One would guess about 165-170 whp with a decent exhaust and the
proper computer.

>There aren't enough VE's in the states yet.  When there are it
>will be a good upgrade.  But IMO we need more on these shores before
>it will be cheap.  I know of only 1 SR20VE on the road, Carl's.
>If people want to be innovative and get VE's more power to them.

VE's are starting to roll in.  Chris at SR20development seems to have a line
on them.  He's already put two in cars.  I've also heard of them being sold
for $1000 or so on the East Coast.  There will be a deluge of them in the
next 6 months.  Just wait and see.

Rob

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 20:11:57 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:11:57 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <F157qalvUmAqjhf6b3J0000b601@hotmail.com>

"Thomas Fox" <subculture@speedracer.com> wrote:

>I thought "C" series cams could pass emissions.

I passed with the C2's, but I doubt the C3's would make it.  Haven't tried,
of course, and probably won't.  I just doubt C3's could do it.

Rob

From sr20de@epix.net  Tue Jan 22 20:31:26 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:31:26 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <F404kcltA05BqSyu3be00001c65@hotmail.com>
 <3C4D8D5E.2F466571@epix.net> <1011716661.25565.39.camel@pugelist>
Message-ID: <3C4DCC2D.9F43CC7C@epix.net>

Jon Pennington wrote:

> that getting an engine/ECU from Japan could be cheaper at this point,
> but you've got to look at every option to really know which one is best.

I know somoene who recenlty checked with JUN and it was $2K just to ship
the motor over.

RK

From edo@power.net  Tue Jan 22 20:32:09 2002
From: edo@power.net (Ron Acevedo)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:32:09 -0600
Subject: `97 Turbo SE-R on ebay
References: <115.b3bdbcf.297dc02f@aol.com>
 <021701c1a2fa$f4edbf70$6e00a8c0@VAIO>
 <1011679261.23710.704.camel@pugelist>
 <026801c1a340$776f6cb0$5500a8c0@david>
Message-ID: <008901c1a384$d3064aa0$6e00a8c0@VAIO>

> BTW, Ron why are you selling it now?  Are you selling it as is, meaning
just
> boosting to 10psi or so or will it be fixed first?

>     -=david

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11923

I have no power over when it will be fixed.

-Ron

From sr20de@epix.net  Tue Jan 22 20:33:35 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:33:35 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <RELAY2gbiL0Dd3994RZ00001487@relay2.softcomca.com>
 <3C4D8DDB.CB6A29C1@epix.net> <1011716828.25565.42.camel@pugelist>
Message-ID: <3C4DCCB1.1DD447FE@epix.net>

Jon Pennington wrote:

> those scales are in?  HP or PS, N/m or lb/ft?

Right side is N-m which can be converted to torque.
Left side is kW which can be converted to HP
Bottom is RPMS

From wmc20@dnaco.net  Tue Jan 22 20:36:51 2002
From: wmc20@dnaco.net (Wayne Cox)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:36:51 -0600
Subject: Parts Prices
In-Reply-To: <20020122141001.633B227E6D@dm2.deskmedia.com>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020122151704.00a8a020@mailhost.dnaco.net>

At 08:10 AM 1/22/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Are the courtesyparts.com prices with the discount for
>list memebers.  Is there still a discount for list
>members?  Have I been out of the loop too long?

Courtesy gives 25% off all regular Nissan parts to anyone that cares to
order.  There isn't any extra list discount.

In my experience, Courtesy screws up about 50% or more of their
orders.  They're always very "courteous" on the phone when trying to
straighten things out, but I'd like it better if they were rude assholes
that could put the right parts in a box and ship per my instructions.

If you order from them, just tell them to hold the whole darn thing till
it's ready to ship together.  If they make partial shipments, or back order
portions, things go sour in a hurry.  Cost me about $50 or more in
shipping, and many headaches on more than one order.  Also make sure to ask
them not to print your credit card number on the address label for everyone
to read!

   -Wayne Cox

From sr20de@epix.net  Tue Jan 22 20:38:28 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:38:28 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <RELAY38BylrQa7kaHvH00002dc1@relay3.softcomca.com>
Message-ID: <3C4DCDD5.64747E9E@epix.net>

"geo3@earthlink.net" wrote:

> I would be *very* surprised if I put a boost controller on my car.  I don't
> really have the interest.  I like it as is, but I can tell that it needs to
> breath a little easier.

We'll see after you get a ride in my car.

> Turbos blow ;-)

Gee I thought they sucked. ;)

RK

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 20:42:10 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:42:10 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <F22n9JbeIz0ynk4OXgX0000b616@hotmail.com>

"Raymond A. Kawski" <sr20de@epix.net> wrote:

>I know somoene who recenlty checked with JUN and it was $2K just to ship
>the motor over.

Well, that's half what they wanted two years ago for one, and about twice
what it's really worth.  Sounds like typical JUN :-)

Rob

From JMalapetsa@aol.com  Tue Jan 22 20:44:45 2002
From: JMalapetsa@aol.com (JMalapetsa@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:44:45 -0600
Subject: Pilot bushing replacement-should i bother?
Message-ID: <c8.2120d1e3.297f2937@aol.com>

Dont bother its a locater for the clutch tool thats all. The tranny shaft
doesn't go into it. Went over this with the parts guy. I didnt believe him
until i measure the tranny up and he was right. Not alll cars are like this
though.

John
NISMO SE-R

From stevefoltz@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 21:00:14 2002
From: stevefoltz@hotmail.com (Steve Foltz)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:00:14 -0600
Subject: New option for front brakes!
Message-ID: <F30e5rpZizJJamc0nTP000048b2@hotmail.com>

I have been talking with Brain at fast brakes.  He has "almost" completed
the fabrication for some brakes for our cars.  It was fabricated on a 91-94
SE-R but IMHO it should fit the B14 as well.  You can contact him at
sales@fastbrakes.com.  Below is a portion of the e-mail that he sent me.

"11" kit will use a stock style 11" rotor with adapter kit including hub
centric rings, adapter plates, bolts etc. The caliper will be Wilwood Billet
Dynalite, using  1.38" pistons, which will make the brake pedal travel just
a bit more than normal. Pads will be included, either street or race
compound. I'm still deciding whether to offer the front braided lines with
the kit or just use the brake line adapters I use for my other kits.

The 11.75" kit will use a 2 piece rotor with the Superlite calipers. It will
also have the adpater kit with brackets, hub centric rings etc. Same thing
with the braided lines for this kit. Pads will not be included with this
kit.
You can go ahead and post the info about the kits and tell people to contact
me for more info. I'll give a discount to those who mention they saw it on
the site.

Retail prices will be around $675-700 for the 11" and $800-825 for the
11.75" kits.

Thanks,

Brian H"

Seems like a good option.  You can look at some of his other products at
www.fastbrakes.com

From pln81@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 21:08:56 2002
From: pln81@hotmail.com (Phillip Nelson)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:08:56 -0600
Subject: question on choosing a turbo to install
Message-ID: <F191Rv8xYjcHVTgIvvS000244b7@hotmail.com>

Could I get some oppinions about putting a turbo into my '91 NX2000?
I was thinking of either purchasing a kit and installing that on the stock
engine, or purchasing a SR20DET engine.

What do you all think would be the best, most practical, easiest or whatever
route.

Any information would be helpful.

Thanks,
Phil

From pln81@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 21:10:10 2002
From: pln81@hotmail.com (Phillip Nelson)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:10:10 -0600
Subject: NX2000 front wheel bearing
Message-ID: <F796lCPx33E1ioWwr2U00024621@hotmail.com>

Doesn anyone know where I can get information on installing a new front
wheel bearing on my '91 NX 2000?

Phil

From pln81@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 21:12:17 2002
From: pln81@hotmail.com (Phillip Nelson)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:12:17 -0600
Subject: NX 2000 body kits
Message-ID: <F262Ywlib4g3Sv0YKpD000249e4@hotmail.com>

I've been searching the internet and I have only been able to find one body
kit on one site.  This realy doesn't supprise me.  Does anyone know of where
there might be any??

Phil

From sbauroth@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 22:07:40 2002
From: sbauroth@hotmail.com (Stefan Bauroth)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:07:40 -0600
Subject: Donating your car for a tax write off?
Message-ID: <LAW2-F14O6trmf1Jq6K00007ac3@hotmail.com>

Has anyone ever donated their car to a charity organization for a tax write
off? If so, how does this process work? Do you get the full amount back from
Uncle Sam? My parents have a old Hyundai they want to get rid of. It
runs/drives but they don't want to go through the hassle of selling it for
$350. Sorry about the non-SER content.

TIA,
Stefan Bauroth
Never selling his '92 SE-R!

From brent102@hotmail.com  Tue Jan 22 22:15:56 2002
From: brent102@hotmail.com (Brent Barts)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:15:56 -0600
Subject: New option for front brakes!
Message-ID: <LAW2-F139JrfP6nmGq300007e94@hotmail.com>

That's good someone's taking the time to come up with cheaper brake upgrades
for our cars.
What i would like to see though is someone make a kit that would use the
300zx (z32) twin piston calipors that would fit over the ad22 rotors or
possible something a little larger. I think this would be a reality due to
the large number of imports that use 4X100 bolt pattern wheels/rotors.
I know these calipors are huge compared to the oem ones, but nothing a set
of larger wheels/spacers wouldn't cure.  These calipors are readily avaible
from people who have upgraded their brakes on Z cars.  Most of the time they
sell for cheap.  Coolist part would be that they say nissan on them and
would look stock.
What do you guys think?
Brent
91 se-R
90 TTz stage 1.5
87 pathfinder
91 nx2k-for sale
01 dakota

>From: "Steve Foltz" <stevefoltz@hotmail.com>
>To: se-r@lists.deskmedia.com
>Subject: New option for front brakes!
>Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:00:14 -0600

>I have been talking with Brain at fast brakes.  He has "almost" >11.75"
>kits.

>Thanks,

>Brian H"

>Seems like a good option.  You can look at some of his other products at
>www.fastbrakes.com
>+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
>The mailing list home page is http://www.se-r-list.org/
>To modify your subscription, go to http://lists.deskmedia.com/se-r/
>Visit, and contribute to, the FAQ: http://www.se-r-list.org/FAQ/

From choaderboy2@yahoo.com  Tue Jan 22 22:27:03 2002
From: choaderboy2@yahoo.com (mike kojima)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:27:03 -0600
Subject: New option for front brakes!
In-Reply-To: <LAW2-F139JrfP6nmGq300007e94@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20020122222701.12595.qmail@web12208.mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Brian,

Originaly when I was working with SMC on the BABK, we
wanted to do this but the Z calipers (which are 4
piston by the way) were too fat and it was hard to
find rims that would bolt over them without hitting.
Thats why we had to scrap the Brembo project as well
due to the size of the calipers.

Another issue is that new Z calipers cost 3x more than
Willwoods! The final issue is that the AD22F rotors
are too narrow and the pistons on the Z calipers would
stick out too far once the pads wore, making total
failure posible if as seal were to be exposed when the
pads got too thin.

Mike

--- Brent Barts <brent102@hotmail.com> wrote:
> What i would like to see though is someone make a
> kit that would use the
> 300zx (z32) twin piston calipors that would fit over
> the ad22 rotors or
> possible something a little larger.

From gsr1997@msn.com  Tue Jan 22 23:54:04 2002
From: gsr1997@msn.com (gsr1997@msn.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:54:04 -0600
Subject: dash swap
Message-ID: <F292VythhOjcdEc83LU00003747@hotmail.com>

does any one know if the dash boards between the nx2000 and the 91-94 g20 is
interchangeable?

jeff
93 nx2000 act clutch

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

From gsr1997@msn.com  Wed Jan 23 01:24:20 2002
From: gsr1997@msn.com (gsr1997@msn.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:24:20 -0600
Subject: (no subject)
Message-ID: <F24u6WPvMDqsGA9cwdv0000d6fa@hotmail.com>

whats up all? just want to know if any one knows of a reputable shop to do
an sr20det swap and just general and performance work in south floida
from west palm beach to the north keys
any information is appreciated
jeff silver
93 nx2000 act clutch

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

From jorge181@coqui.net  Wed Jan 23 01:40:42 2002
From: jorge181@coqui.net (Jorge R.)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:40:42 -0600
Subject: B14 Springs
Message-ID: <00f301c1a3b7$5acb4c60$e03f2ac4@computer>

Hey list, sorry for the spam. I was wondering if anybody had any stock B14
springs(the front ones) that they didn't need and would either sell or
donate to a fellow SE-R brother? TIA

Jorge

'96 SE-R

From geo3@earthlink.net  Wed Jan 23 01:41:43 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:41:43 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <3C4DCDD5.64747E9E@epix.net>
References: <RELAY38BylrQa7kaHvH00002dc1@relay3.softcomca.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020122194615.00da1b00@mail.earthlink.net>

Rainman wrote:

> > Turbos blow ;-)

>Gee I thought they sucked. ;)

No sillly....

NA sucks. :-)

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From stevefoltz@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 01:51:46 2002
From: stevefoltz@hotmail.com (Steve Foltz)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:51:46 -0600
Subject: New option for front brakes!
Message-ID: <F87WuD69l9Xwi60RjkV0001233c@hotmail.com>

Just thought I would add some more information.  He has test fitted the
11.75 inch brakes over some 15 inch Rota C8's.  He said the fit perfectly
with the 3mm spacer he provides.  You could skip the spacers but might need
to trim the caliper a little.  The specs on this kit seem right.  Does
anyone have any thoughts about the brake balance with the 11 inch fronts
with stock rear brakes versus 11.75 inch fronts and the Maxima rear brakes.
I realize it's not just about size but also balance front to rear.  If
balance is an issue how hard is it to plumb in a proportioning valve in our
cars.

Steve

From geo3@earthlink.net  Wed Jan 23 02:01:37 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:01:37 -0600
Subject: question on choosing a turbo to install
In-Reply-To: <F191Rv8xYjcHVTgIvvS000244b7@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020122194855.00ce0bd0@mail.earthlink.net>

Phillip Nelson wrote:

>Could I get some oppinions about putting a turbo into my '91 NX2000?

Sure.  Done properly it will make it faster. :-)

>I was thinking of either purchasing a kit and installing that on the stock
>engine, or purchasing a SR20DET engine.

That's usually how it's done.

>What do you all think would be the best, most practical, easiest or
>whatever route.

Well, that really narrows the field now doesn't it?

>Any information would be helpful.

Agreed.  Help us out with some more information since you haven't narrowed
the field in the least.

I'm having a little fun with you Phillip.  But seriously, you haven't
narrowed the field at all.  Opinions vary completely from buying T25
take-offs from DETs to building DETs with additional equipment.

Things that would help is starting with your budget, or at least a
range.  That narrows the field in a hurry.  Also, what are your hp
interests.  You can get up to about 250 bhp with DET equipment.  Beyond
that and you have to spend a lot of money, but the next ceiling comes up at
something over 325 bhp or so.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From geo3@earthlink.net  Wed Jan 23 02:01:40 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:01:40 -0600
Subject: NX2000 front wheel bearing
In-Reply-To: <F796lCPx33E1ioWwr2U00024621@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020122195353.00d9b7c0@mail.earthlink.net>

Phillip Nelson wrote:

>Doesn anyone know where I can get information on installing a new front
>wheel bearing on my '91 NX 2000?

The archives.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From andoy1379@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 03:09:11 2002
From: andoy1379@hotmail.com (andrew tambis)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:09:11 -0600
Subject: suspension problem and dealer prices......
Message-ID: <F129IkUqLpHkatd4gmS000050ba@hotmail.com>

wassup list.....first elt me start by saying that my dad got behind the
wheel of my 94 sentra and got in a fender-bender.  The outside isnt that
bad (crinkled fender, bumper in half, driverside headlight/corner light
completly gone).  I went to the dealership in the area (williamsport, Pa)
and u will not believe the prices they are giving me!!! 1 fender is
177.83, bumper (without spoiler or so told) 253.00, headlight assembly
124.33!! everything is without tax included, WTF is this for real????? I
went to near by junk yards and they have about 8 sentra's in stock (3
se-r's) but the parts i need are tottally ruined!! Does anybody know
where i can get cheaper parts for my 94, i know i can fit 91-94 parts on
but the prices they gave me are CRAZY!, also i had the dealership look at
my suspension (stock struts, agx springs).  They said that there was no
problem suspension wise, however my car is leaning real bad.  I cant
afford to get new struts and springs. has anybody experienced this
sort of problem??, if so i would really appreciate teh info on what could
be the problem and how to solve without spending money on parts i dont
have.

thanx

andrew (doy)

From mena.ka@verizon.net  Wed Jan 23 03:13:32 2002
From: mena.ka@verizon.net (Mena Aqenenni)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:13:32 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <1011716828.25565.42.camel@pugelist>
Message-ID: <002701c1a3bb$bcf577e0$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>

> so can you tell me what those scales are in?  HP or PS, N/m or lb/ft?

The left is in kW and the right is Nm. The graph's not in wheel hp
though.

Mena
92 Classic
01 G20t

From gsr1997@msn.com  Wed Jan 23 03:22:43 2002
From: gsr1997@msn.com (gsr1997@msn.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:22:43 -0600
Subject: a new squeak! help? please
Message-ID: <OE25OuxOtWMu2AMR21q0002b108@hotmail.com>

hello all again, tonight on the way home from work, i was driving rather
aggressive,
gap shooting and the such, and right before my exit i laughingly knocked off a
98-00
corolla  i pulled into my drive way and noticed a squeak, it sounded like it
was coming from  the rear of the engine bay. could this be my rear engine
mount? and also theer is some clicking that sounds like the valves?? do these
engines need valve adjustment? or do i need to replace the valve lash
adjusters? one more thing i have noticed that the engine
and drivetrain jerk a little when i let off the gas, is this the rear engine
mount as well?
and a little perspective from and old honda member, my nx2000 out handles my
97 integra gs-r that had neuspeed springs and 205/40/16 tires but as far as
speed my integra was faster but i also had almost every bolt on mod, it pulled
157whp w/ 23lb 16x7 rims all on corners, i plan  to turbocharge my car and
stomp some hondas( although boost is not needed to do it as most of these
socalled hondaphiles only do a exhaust and air filter and
the rest of the 10 grand on body kits and dvd sytems)  i am about sleeping
speed
the ultimate surprise as i blast by my prey!
again any information will be appreciated

jeff
93 nx2000 act clutch 117000 miles

From nissan98ser@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 04:25:45 2002
From: nissan98ser@hotmail.com (NISMO SER)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:25:45 -0600
Subject: GC C/C Plate install questions
Message-ID: <F272cYTjr8cU6xfPTei00004894@hotmail.com>

Hi All

I finally have a chance to install my GC C/C plate on my 98 SER with
Motivational Full CO. I ran into a couple of problems.  I checked the
archive but didn't really give me a clear answer.

1. There was a metal tube installed next to my stock strut tower, the metal
tube is in the way of the GC C/C plate.  I unscrewed the two bolts holding
the tube but it's still in the way.  Can I just rest this tube on top of the
GC plate?

2. The GC instruction said to cut about half of the lip that's facing the
engine side, is it done so that you can get more space to get more negative
camber from the GC plate?  Can I shave the entire lip totally?  It's just
looks odd to me just to shave a little bit of it.

3. When I place the GC plate on the strut tower with screws on, I can't move
the GC plate up to adjust caster because the top of the strut tower is not
even, Do I need to hammer the strut tower down so I can move my GC plate up
and down?

thanks
David.
98 SER

From choaderboy2@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 04:34:41 2002
From: choaderboy2@yahoo.com (mike kojima)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:34:41 -0600
Subject: New option for front brakes!
In-Reply-To: <F87WuD69l9Xwi60RjkV0001233c@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20020123043440.62360.qmail@web12206.mail.yahoo.com>

It should be ok.

Mike

--- Steve Foltz <stevefoltz@hotmail.com> wrote:
Does
> anyone have any thoughts about the brake balance
> with the 11 inch fronts
> with stock rear brakes versus 11.75 inch fronts and
> the Maxima rear brakes.

From probedude@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 04:48:20 2002
From: probedude@hotmail.com (probedude)
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:48:20 -0600
Subject: Donating your car for a tax write off?
References: <LAW2-F14O6trmf1Jq6K00007ac3@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <OE51cFXDWbpxFDd2TjZ0000a73e@hotmail.com>

I've donated 2 cars.  This shows up on your taxes as a charitable donation
and unless the total amount of your donations exceed the "standard
deduction" that the government gives you, it is worthless and won't do a bit
for your taxes.

Dave

From McDaddi007@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 06:08:42 2002
From: McDaddi007@aol.com (McDaddi007@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:08:42 -0600
Subject: Coilovers for G20
Message-ID: <141.846ed32.297fad67@aol.com>

Does any one know of any coilovers besides ground control for '02 G20 (P11)?

Ground control costs like $800-$900 for everything.

Are you G20 owners with lowering springs happy with the drop?

Michael
'02 G20

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 06:22:36 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:22:36 -0600
Subject: Coilovers for G20
In-Reply-To: <141.846ed32.297fad67@aol.com>
References: <141.846ed32.297fad67@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1011767149.27170.41.camel@pugelist>

On Wed, 2002-01-23 at 00:08, McDaddi007@aol.com wrote:

> Does any one know of any coilovers besides ground control for '02 G20 (P11)?

If you find 'em, and they cost less than the GCs, they're probably crap.

> Ground control costs like $800-$900 for everything.

Are you kidding?  That's an INCREDIBLE price.  The springs, adjusters,
and collars themselves are more like $500, btw, it's just that they work
better with high-performance dampers like KYB AGX units, as any spring
worth it's salt does.  There's information on g20.net about which
dampers to order for your P11.  Something like using P10 fronts and B14
rears...

> Are you G20 owners with lowering springs happy with the drop?

Hit http://www.g20.net/ to find some more answers.  I'm not saying you
won't find any here, but you'll find *more* there.  I cruised that board
the other night and found several sharp P11s with non-stock ride
heights.  Don't forget that all springs are created inequally; Sprint
springs are almost nothing like Intrax, which are nothing like Eibach
Prokits, which are nothing like Sportlines, and so on...

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From brent102@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 06:23:17 2002
From: brent102@hotmail.com (Brent Barts)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:23:17 -0600
Subject: Which power steering pump on a det?
Message-ID: <LAW2-F107ZzubLR95CB00004b57@hotmail.com>

Hi guys...i remember a post about using the power steering pump(the one that
came with the det) instead of using the se-R one.  I can't find the thread
but can someone help me here?
I held it up in the engine bay and seems like everything should work-but
does it?
Thanks
Brent
91 se-R soon to be pulsarized

From NismoPwr@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 07:16:14 2002
From: NismoPwr@aol.com (NismoPwr@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 01:16:14 -0600
Subject: SERCA Member discounts at CARisma
Message-ID: <c5.1cd2f32e.297fbd36@aol.com>

Hello everyone!

I have just made a deal with the owners of CARisma Automobil Tecnik out here
in
 Chatsworth, CA and they said it was cool if I gave discounts to SERCA
members.  I
don't have an exact number as to what the discount would be off of normal
price, but
I just wanted to let everyone know that they could save a pretty good amount
of they
are a part of this list.  Just call and ask for me, Leonard and let me know
that you're
a part of the SE-R List and i'll know to give you a great price one
whatevers.  If you've
never heard of CARisma, the website is: http://www.carismaautotec.com.  The
website shows a lot of bodykits and stuff like that but we carry practically
everything
from light bulbs to turbo kits.  Volk Racing wheels to camshaft seals, we got
it all!
=P.  Yeah..uh, well anyways the number is 818.734.6964. or you can email me
at:
leonard@spamnrice.com.  Thanks everyone and hope to see the locals at Streets

2/8.

Len
CARisma Autotec/Operations mgr.

From NismoPwr@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 07:32:43 2002
From: NismoPwr@aol.com (NismoPwr@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 01:32:43 -0600
Subject: SERCA Member discounts at CARisma
Message-ID: <72.166c77a8.297fc115@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/22/2002 11:17:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
NismoPwr@aol.com writes:

> Just call and ask for me, Leonard and let me know
> that you're
> a part of the SE-R List and i'll know to give you a great price one
> whatevers.

SERCA PAID MEMBERS get an extra discount.  I forgot to add.

Len

From timrogers@charter.net  Wed Jan 23 09:15:52 2002
From: timrogers@charter.net (Tim Rogers)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 03:15:52 -0600
Subject: NX 2000 body kits
References: <F262Ywlib4g3Sv0YKpD000249e4@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <012301c1a3ee$7d8cadc0$4a639f18@charter.net>

Phil wrote:
>  Does anyone know of where there might be any??

Try the thread here:
http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10677

The only place for NX body kits seems to be Europe.

Tim Rogers
'93 NX 2000, modded
'91 NX 2000, gutted for race car project

From brian@unxplodedbomb.com  Wed Jan 23 11:26:46 2002
From: brian@unxplodedbomb.com (UXB)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 05:26:46 -0600
Subject: Coilovers for G20
In-Reply-To: <141.846ed32.297fad67@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B8740420.AAB%brian@unxplodedbomb.com>

There's a few options.  The G20.net forum has been
beaten to death with this question in the suspension
forum.

I've run Intrax on stock springs (horrible!!!).  I then
switched to GC's with Koni's. Front struts from a P11
and rear struts from a 95-99 Sentra will work good with
them.  They are a little sqeaky but I've since found out
from P10 owners how to rid the problem.  Dont bother with
the rear P11 strut from Koni... there's issues when pairing
it with the GC.

I switched to the Tein NA kit after being told it was
the "best setup" and "rides like stock".  Spare your
money.  The smoothness doesnt last all too long,  and
the understeer is way worse than the Koni/GC combo.  I
wish I had never switched.

There's 2 king of the hill setups from JIC-Magic of Japan.
I wouldnt get these unless you like a super stiff ride or
do a lot of track time.  These are primo though.  :)

There's also a full coilover setup from B&G.  I only know
of one person running them,  but havent gotten anymore
feedback besides "I like them".

Lastly you can try using GC's with KYB AGX.  P10 front
struts and B14 Sentra rear struts.  This setup should ride
pretty nice for street and a bit of track fun.  And its
not super expensive because the KYB's are a bargain.

GC w/ KYB $750-800
GC w/ Koni $950-1000
Tein NA $975 (this is only lowering springs and struts)
B&G coilovers $1200
Jic-Magic $1350 for std. $1500 for 5 rate adj. damping.

Brian Carvalho
'00 G20t (still modding, turbo plotting...)

> From: McDaddi007@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:08:42 -0600
> To: se-r@lists.deskmedia.com
> Subject: Coilovers for G20

> Does any one know of any coilovers besides ground control for '02 G20 (P11)?

> Ground control costs like $800-$900 for everything.

> Are you G20 owners with lowering springs happy with the drop?

> Michael
> '02 G20
> +----------------------------------------------------------------------+
> The mailing list home page is http://www.se-r-list.org/
> To modify your subscription, go to http://lists.deskmedia.com/se-r/
> Visit, and contribute to, the FAQ: http://www.se-r-list.org/FAQ/

From geo3@earthlink.net  Wed Jan 23 11:53:34 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 05:53:34 -0600
Subject: Which power steering pump on a det?
In-Reply-To: <LAW2-F107ZzubLR95CB00004b57@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020123055734.00d923a0@mail.earthlink.net>

Brent Barts wrote:

>Hi guys...i remember a post about using the power steering pump(the one that
>came with the det) instead of using the se-R one.

The PS pump from the BB DET is the same one that comes with the 91-93 (high
port) SR20DE.  You only have to worry about changing things when your
original engine is the low port.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From grega@pobox.com  Wed Jan 23 12:43:55 2002
From: grega@pobox.com (Greg Amy)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 06:43:55 -0600
Subject: Donating your car for a tax write off?
Message-ID: <NDBBKEBJHNBKEDNNIDOHEEGFBNAB.grega@pobox.com>

>>> Has anyone ever donated their car to a charity organization for a tax
write off?

Yes. Visit http://www.donateyourcar.com

>>> If so, how does this process work?

You give your car to an approved charity, they give you a receipt for its
value.

>>> Do you get the full amount back from Uncle Sam?

Nope, you get to deduct its full value from your Adjusted Gross Income.
Depending on your tax bracket, that means your tax bill will drop
approximately 1/3 to 1/4 of the car's value.

The advantages are: the lack of hassle of dealing with selling it; it's an
easy way to make a tax-deductible donation that you were going to do anyway;
and since they'll receipt you for the full blue book value sometimes you'll
get a receipt that's a tad bit higher than what you would have actually sold
it.

A couple of caveats: the IRS watches these transactions closely, so don't
expect to wink and have them write a receipt for $2000. Second, they are
getting very picky about what they'll accept; if you can't sell it, they
can't sell it, so it has no value to them (they don't want to be a car
disposal yard.)

Good luck.

GregA

From moses_hernandez@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 14:12:22 2002
From: moses_hernandez@hotmail.com (Moses Hernandez)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:12:22 -0600
Subject: Speaking of G20 Springs
Message-ID: <OE751JiuzRrx95qSVCP0001295e@hotmail.com>

Yeah i have a 02 G20 Sport and i want to give it the nasty drop but I want to
retain ride quality and i dont want my car hoping and the bottom scratching
the floor. I am willing to pay the 1G it will take for the parts if they are
the right ones. Anyone have any suggestions or horror stories

I'm out.
trk.

From sr20de@epix.net  Wed Jan 23 14:14:35 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:14:35 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <RELAY38BylrQa7kaHvH00002dc1@relay3.softcomca.com>
 <4.3.2.7.0.20020122194615.00da1b00@mail.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3C4EC558.CE967BB@epix.net>

George Roffe wrote:

> No sillly....
> NA sucks. :-)

Well I guess you could say turbos suck and blow.  ;)

RK
This is getting out of control.

From sr20de@epix.net  Wed Jan 23 14:17:52 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:17:52 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <002701c1a3bb$bcf577e0$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>
Message-ID: <3C4EC61C.26304431@epix.net>

Mena Aqenenni wrote:

> The left is in kW and the right is Nm. The graph's not in wheel hp
> though.

Shhh don't let Geo see this. :)

RK

From brian@unxplodedbomb.com  Wed Jan 23 14:29:06 2002
From: brian@unxplodedbomb.com (brian@UnXplodedBomb.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:29:06 -0600
Subject: Coilovers for G20
References: <B8740420.AAB%brian@unxplodedbomb.com>
 <OE364lr6Xfa4GFH3oKc000126d7@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c1a41a$16ffeaa0$14d7e6d0@26broadway>

The JIC suspensions are pretty stiff.  Possibly too
stiff for normal street driving and bumps.  On a
track I have no doubts that it is the best option
available before moving up to a real racing
suspension setup.  ($5000 on up)

Brian Carvalho
'00 G20t (still modding, turbo plotting...)

>Your saying the JIC-Majik is nice but not smooth, too
> rough huh?

From sr20de@epix.net  Wed Jan 23 14:30:31 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:30:31 -0600
Subject: Speaking of G20 Springs
References: <OE751JiuzRrx95qSVCP0001295e@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C4EC919.4E0CEFF4@epix.net>

Moses Hernandez wrote:

> Yeah i have a 02 G20 Sport and i want to give it the nasty drop but I want to
  retain ride quality and i dont want my car hoping and the bottom
scratching
  the floor. I am willing to pay the 1G it will take for the parts if
they are
> the right ones. Anyone have any suggestions or horror stories

They are out and if you don't ghetto lower it (more then 1.5") it
rides just fine!  More then that and it's Hopalong cassidy.

RK

From brian@unxplodedbomb.com  Wed Jan 23 14:38:33 2002
From: brian@unxplodedbomb.com (brian@UnXplodedBomb.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:38:33 -0600
Subject: Speaking of G20 Springs
References: <OE751JiuzRrx95qSVCP0001295e@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <002201c1a41b$6f530ab0$14d7e6d0@26broadway>

> Yeah i have a 02 G20 Sport and i want to give it the nasty drop but I want
to
> retain ride quality and i dont want my car hoping and the bottom
scratching
> the floor.

Good luck.

>I am willing to pay the 1G it will take for the parts if they are
> the right ones. Anyone have any suggestions or horror stories

For $1000 (actually less) go with the GC's with Koni or AGX.  The setup
will perform and look good.  Do not lower your P11 more than 1.5" you
will have nothing but headaches.

I get asked this question non stop on the G20.net forum.  "How can I slam
my car and have good ride quality.  I dont care how much it costs"

The bottom line is:  you cant.  No matter how much you pay for the setup,
if you lower it too much it will ride like crap.  Your car cant ride with
quality
on the street if you do not have enough suspension travel available.

1.5" is the lowest you can go on the P11 before running into nasty problems.

Be warned.

Brian "the P11 suspension headache man" Carvalho
'00 G20t (still modding, turbo plotting...)

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Wed Jan 23 15:04:59 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:04:59 -0600
Subject: dash swap
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA3B@HORIZON>

>does any one know if the dash boards between the nx2000 and the 91-94 g20
is interchangeable?

What part exactly are you talking about? Instrument cluster? Center console?
Upper dash pad?

-Jay

From SERRIC97@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 16:26:23 2002
From: SERRIC97@aol.com (SERRIC97@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:26:23 -0600
Subject: a new squeak! help? please
Message-ID: <132.7d5f6ea.29803e27@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/22/2002 7:23:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gsr1997@msn.com writes:

> i was driving rather aggressive, gap shooting and the such,

    you're obviously new to THIS list. we don't post here about our
dangerous, childish behavior behind the wheel.

 "i laughingly knocked off a 98-00 corolla"

  now thats something to be proud of isn't it?

>  do these engines need valve adjustment?

    a quick search of the archives would get you the answer. but to save you
the work of searching... no, the sr 20 ain't no honda motor.

> a little perspective from and old honda member,

>  i knew it. something here smelled of hun-duh. maybe it was your email
> addy? no, i think it was more in the message!
>  have a nice day ;-)

   Ric

From broxsr20power@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 16:32:19 2002
From: broxsr20power@yahoo.com (Brock Stepan)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:32:19 -0600
Subject: Hotshot turbo kit experience
Message-ID: <20020123163217.48219.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com>

I would appreciate any comments on the Hotshot turbo
kit from people who have either owned one or ridden in
a car with one.  I'm thinking of purchasing the kit
myself so any and all feedback is welcome- i.e. what
kind of cars have you laid the smackdown on, 1/4
times, install, type of clutch used, any problems,
dyno runs, etc..
Please e-mail me privately and TIA for the replies.

Brock
94 classic
JWT S3's, JWT ECU, courtesy 2.5" catback

From SERRIC97@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 16:43:17 2002
From: SERRIC97@aol.com (SERRIC97@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:43:17 -0600
Subject: GC C/C Plate install questions
Message-ID: <12a.b05a9fc.29804213@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/22/2002 8:26:30 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nissan98ser@hotmail.com writes:

> I finally have a chance to install my GC C/C plate on my 98 SER with
> Motivational Full CO. I ran into a couple of problems.

   1. there really isn't much you can do with that tube. i tried tweeking it
a little then wrapping it with electrical tape where it contacts the plate.
if it continues rubbing on the plate it will wear a little spot in the soft
aluminum.:-)

   2.  i took a grinder to the entire lip, removing ~3/4 of the height. be
sure to prime and paint the affected area.

    3 DO NOT take a bfh to your tower. instead take a little grinder to one
corner of each plate.

         these are the things that I did. you may find a better way.  good
luck!

      Ric

From subculture@speedracer.com  Wed Jan 23 17:46:02 2002
From: subculture@speedracer.com (Thomas Fox)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:46:02 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <200201231746.g0NHk0j01974@mail6.bigmailbox.com>

[demime could not interpret encoding binary - treating as plain text]
> "Rob Cadle" <robcadle@hotmail.com>
<snip>
>I passed with the C2's, but I doubt the
C3's would make it.  Haven't tried,
>of course, and probably won't.  I just doubt
 C3's could do it.

Do you think the SR20VE could pass Cali' emmisions?
And would it be possible to make it pass the visual?

Thomas Fox
'93 NX2000
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/napsz/start.html

Speed Racer's Official Virtual Pit Stop.
http://www.speedracerdsl.com/speedracer/

From McDaddi007@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 17:52:36 2002
From: McDaddi007@aol.com (McDaddi007@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:52:36 -0600
Subject: Link to V35
Message-ID: <190.183c3c9.2980524e@aol.com>

Can someone give me the link to the pic of the new V35 skyline?

From jwhitely2000@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 17:53:23 2002
From: jwhitely2000@yahoo.com (Jay Whitely)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:53:23 -0600
Subject: Which power steering pump on a det?
In-Reply-To: <LAW2-F107ZzubLR95CB00004b57@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20020123175322.22025.qmail@web9203.mail.yahoo.com>

> Hi guys...i remember a post about using the power
> steering pump(the one that
> came with the det) instead of using the se-R one.

***Brent, if you have a GTi-R DET, then you will need
the GTi-R power steering pump. The DE pump will not
attach correctly to the GTi-R bracket, as the holes do
not align at all.

Good luck,

=====
Jay Whitely
Tampa, FL
1996 200SX SE-R
GTi-R powered, F-MAX Stage 2

From velasquj@rohan.sdsu.edu  Wed Jan 23 17:57:39 2002
From: velasquj@rohan.sdsu.edu (Juan Velasquez)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:57:39 -0600
Subject: Donating your car for a tax write off?
In-Reply-To: <NDBBKEBJHNBKEDNNIDOHEEGFBNAB.grega@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020123095153.00b6eb68@rohan.sdsu.edu>

At 06:43 AM 1/23/2002 -0600, Greg Amy wrote:

>Nope, you get to deduct its full value from your Adjusted Gross Income.
>Depending on your tax bracket, that means your tax bill will drop
>approximately 1/3 to 1/4 of the car's value.

You have to be able to itemize I thought.  It goes on a schedule A
itemized deduction.  If you are already itemizing, it does come out
of your adjusted gross income, but if you have very little stuff to
itemize (or don't itemize at all) you might run into problems getting
anything for it.

Juan

From badahab@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 18:56:20 2002
From: badahab@yahoo.com (sean mcmahon)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 12:56:20 -0600
Subject: Ghetto clear corner pics
Message-ID: <20020123185619.7839.qmail@web13508.mail.yahoo.com>

I finaly got some nice pics of how they turned out.  If anyone wants to see let
me know.

-sean

From kls@merlot.com  Wed Jan 23 19:01:36 2002
From: kls@merlot.com (Kurt L. Sussman)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:01:36 -0600
Subject: need a new PP
Message-ID: <20020123110025.E18621@merlot.com>

What's the hot setup for pressure plates these days?

The archives show the ACT HD and Ryan's Clutchnet setup. Can I get some
driving impressions, and comparisons with the JWT PP/stock disk?

George Peters just got my trans put back together, and he said he thinks
I need a clutch. I have an older JWT PP with the 2k se disk (new disk).
Should I get a newer JWT PP, or something else? I may turbo the car in
the next year (not a monster turbo, maybe 250 whp), so I'd like to be
prepared.

I like the light weight of the JWT PP, but I'll adapt to anything.

Thanks.

--Kurt

From sr20de@epix.net  Wed Jan 23 19:22:19 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:22:19 -0600
Subject: need a new PP
References: <20020123110025.E18621@merlot.com>
Message-ID: <3C4F0D73.404E995C@epix.net>

"Kurt L. Sussman" wrote:

> the next year (not a monster turbo, maybe 250 whp), so I'd like to be
> prepared.

When researching mine Clark told me the PP they sell should
hold 250whp.  Anything more he said go with the metal one side
clutch.  That is what Kojima recommended to me.  I like it, its
as light as the other JWT PP.  Doesn't engage with high shock
and seems to be holding my turbo setup just fine.

I left a cloud of smoke and serious tire marks the other day
after a 2nd gear slip and dump.  :)

RK

From Aver99ex@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 19:27:04 2002
From: Aver99ex@aol.com (Aver99ex@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:27:04 -0600
Subject: Power Control Module.
Message-ID: <108.c1f1562.29806880@aol.com>

Hey guys, i was surfin' through the parts i can get at nopi.  and this came
up  "JET - V-Force Power Control Module - 4cyl - 20mhz RISC microprocessor
optimizes the ignition spark advance and recalibrates the fuel map for
optimum horsepower and acceleration" is it worth the $203.00? and does anyone
on this list have it, or know about it?

Thanks,

Dennis w/ 91 Classic and Primera Swap

From ianshannon97@msn.com  Wed Jan 23 19:39:47 2002
From: ianshannon97@msn.com (ianshannon97)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:39:47 -0600
Subject: Newer style injector?
Message-ID: <001701c1a445$ddfc9060$66f4c243@computer>

Anyone else order injectors for their car and notice the design is different
than the ones you pulled out? BigPepNYC gave me one to replace one of my
broken ones and although the seals and the overall size is the same the screen
is lower on the newer injector and the bottom by the nozzle does not have a
rounded cover but a prong like a Bosch +4 plug?. Dealer told him this was an
updated injector. Anyone else notice this? Also they are mixed old and new.
That should not be a problem?

91 NX2000 with work.
97 Maxima SE, smooth and powerful automatic
http://www.angelfire.com/ny/ianjiggyroom/IansNX2000page.html

From brent102@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 19:49:01 2002
From: brent102@hotmail.com (Brent Barts)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:49:01 -0600
Subject: need a new PP
Message-ID: <LAW2-F63mcK8r6beUzm000095bc@hotmail.com>

I don't think jwt has changed a thing on their pressure plates over the
years.  So i wouldn't replace it unless it's worn or broke.
If you're planning on going turbo and content with buying a new pp then i
would se-riously consider the ACT one.  It is rated a 43%(heavy duty one)
more clamping force (92% on the extreme one)than stock.
I have the HD one but haven't driven with it yet...hopefully this is the
right setup for me with my turbo setup.  A few members swear this setup (act
hd pp and street disk) are enough to hold 300hp with some abuse and no hint
of slipping.  There was a group buy going on the act...or i can give you the
name of where i bought mine.
Brent
91 se-R patiently waiting for its turbo

>What's the hot setup for pressure plates these days?

>George Peters just got my trans put back together, and he said he think

>I may turbo the car in
>the next year (not a monster turbo, maybe 250 whp), so I'd like to be
>prepared.

>Thanks.

>--Kurt
>+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
>The mailing list home page is http://www.se-r-list.org/
>To modify your subscription, go to http://lists.deskmedia.com/se-r/
>Visit, and contribute to, the FAQ: http://www.se-r-list.org/FAQ/

From badahab@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 19:54:28 2002
From: badahab@yahoo.com (sean mcmahon)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:54:28 -0600
Subject: Power Control Module.
In-Reply-To: <108.c1f1562.29806880@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20020123195426.10223.qmail@web13502.mail.yahoo.com>

JET (junk every time)  nope not worth it if you ask me.  200 goes a long way
towards a jwt cpu that will do that.  I have heard of people messing stuff up
with those type of things, just turning the knob as far a possible and thinking
that it means more power.  200 dollars would be a good start for a cai or
something else.  So what im trying to say is avoid it.  But thats just my
opinion.

-sean

From sr20de@epix.net  Wed Jan 23 20:02:49 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:02:49 -0600
Subject: need a new PP
References: <LAW2-F63mcK8r6beUzm000095bc@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C4F16F0.DA94E60C@epix.net>

Brent Barts wrote:

> would se-riously consider the ACT one.  It is rated a 43%(heavy duty one)
> more clamping force (92% on the extreme one)than stock.

Most of the ACT's seem to have a high shock engagement.  The JWT
Metal one side does not.  And pedal effort is much like stock.
Not the brick you have to push with the ACT's.

Go JWT Kurt!

RK

From kls@merlot.com  Wed Jan 23 20:18:05 2002
From: kls@merlot.com (Kurt L. Sussman)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:18:05 -0600
Subject: need a new PP
In-Reply-To: <3C4F16F0.DA94E60C@epix.net>
References: <LAW2-F63mcK8r6beUzm000095bc@hotmail.com>
 <3C4F16F0.DA94E60C@epix.net>
Message-ID: <20020123121654.H18621@merlot.com>

Raymond A. Kawski (sr20de@epix.net) typed this ...
> Brent Barts wrote:
> > would se-riously consider the ACT one.  It is rated a 43%(heavy duty one)
> > more clamping force (92% on the extreme one)than stock.

> Most of the ACT's seem to have a high shock engagement.  The JWT
> Metal one side does not.  And pedal effort is much like stock.
> Not the brick you have to push with the ACT's.

OK, I realize now that I forgot to describe the kind of use the car
sees.

I get to the track a couple times per year (and hope to do it a lot more
this year!), and drive the car on the street about twice per week. No
drag racing, and not too much stop and go traffic (not yet, anyway!).
I'd like something I can heel/toe pretty easily on the track. No drag
racing, except for the occasional stoplight run.

I haven't heard anything about the Clutchnet stuff, except Ryan's
comment (in the archives) that it's as smooth as stock but holds in his
400hp monster. Any more Clutchnet users?

The JWT sounds fine, especially since I'm not going to be drag racing,
but I want to be sure I check out all the options.

--Kurt
--

    Merlot Research Group, Inc               http://www.merlot.com
    kls@merlot.com         GPG key 82505A74       Jabber: MerlotQA

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 20:21:37 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:21:37 -0600
Subject: Power Control Module.
In-Reply-To: <108.c1f1562.29806880@aol.com>
References: <108.c1f1562.29806880@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1011817491.30471.24.camel@pugelist>

On Wed, 2002-01-23 at 13:27, Aver99ex@aol.com wrote:

> Hey guys, i was surfin' through the parts i can get at nopi.

First mistake. ;)

> "JET - V-Force Power Control Module - 4cyl

Sounds like it does exactly what a real ECU does.  Yeah, the price break
is nice (about 1/3 the cost of entry) compared to a JWT ECU, but the
Nissan ECU is quite good.  Piggybacks, by nature, fight with and lie to
the stock ECU to do their job; not the best for reliability.  Finally,
how far will this piggyback take you if you decide to get *really*
serious about engine mods?  Can it compensate for different cams
properly?  How about bigger injectors?  Can it be used to control a
nitrous setup?

Personally, I'll save for a little longer, and I'll do it right.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From flyryd@home.com  Wed Jan 23 20:23:11 2002
From: flyryd@home.com (flyryd)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:23:11 -0600
Subject: need a new PP
References: <LAW2-F63mcK8r6beUzm000095bc@hotmail.com>
 <3C4F16F0.DA94E60C@epix.net>
Message-ID: <005501c1a44c$33c1e760$b4600344@ph.cox.net>

 > Not the brick you have to push with the ACT's.

My ACT is just a hair stiffer pedal effort than stock, I have the Heavy Duty
PP, and Street/strip disc....
Brad B. Phx  AZ
'96 200sx SE-R(w/ this 'n' that)
'01 Altima GXE LE

From joelw@mcdirect.com  Wed Jan 23 20:36:54 2002
From: joelw@mcdirect.com (Joel Ward)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:36:54 -0600
Subject: Which power steering pump on a det?
Message-ID: <3C4F2212.142E86D9@mcdirect.com>

I will soon be making a power steering eliminator for the GTIR engine.
This is useful when doing the swap because it is one less thing to worry

about. Of course the purpose of the car is a factor. Here is the post
about derivability from the socal SERCA list.

Joel W.
RTR
only 1 sr20 kit left

The Random Thoughts Racing Power Steering Removal Kit
is in the car and I really like it. I drove the car up
Azusa Canyon's West fork (which is about 30 miles of
twisty cali canyon) and I must say the car is still a
joy to drive. At first I was unsure if I liked it or
not. I haven't driven a car with manual steering (even
my old Ford Bronco has power steering), so initially I
was a little surprised by the level of increased
effort the steering had. Unless I'm manuvering in a
parking lot and I forgot about no PS, it's not bad at
all. The hardest part to get used to is the increased
level of effort after turn in. I guess I anticipated
the increase effort for initial turn in, but the
increased level when in a turn was more than I
expected. The good news is the level of effort is not
too high to be a problem, it just takes some getting
used to. That and when on the brakes hard the steering
effort raises, too. But these are subtle things that I
can easily adjust to. The car is not as easy to
"flick" into tight bends, but I will never need to
worry about the fluid boiling and having variable
effort steering, either :-)

It also cleared up a *lot* of real estate on the
passenger side of the car, so working on things will
be easier (changing the oil filter become a snap!).

The best part is the pully and bearing assembly is OEM
Nissan, so not only is it top notch, but you can order
it from the dealer in the event it fails (Joel made
the piece that replaces the PS pump and acted as the
tensioner for the water pump).

I'd say it frees up a few hp along the way, too.

So in review, it gives good feel of the road, gives
honest feedback through the wheel, has a top-notch OEM
Nissan pulley, looks bitchin', frees up a few pounds
and a couple ponies, and eliminates the
overheating-prone-variable-effort-power-steering
system and it's pretty inexpensive too!

I'd also go so far as to say it's not unbearable for a
daily driver, but this is a *must* for a race car.

Drop Joel a line and get in line to buy one before the
season starts!

Tom Paule

From jorge181@coqui.net  Wed Jan 23 20:46:08 2002
From: jorge181@coqui.net (Jorge R.)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:46:08 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
Message-ID: <003d01c1a457$60090b40$d33e2ac4@computer>

I'm just wondering why a sentra with over 270whp only ran 14.34 on the 1/4??
Driver error? Shitty tires? What else could contribute to this? I mean, that
should be a 13 second car, right? I don't know and I hope nobody takes this
the wrong way but, that turbo sentra really disappointed me with the 1/4
times.

Jorge

'96 SE-R

From John Tumas" <drknite@bellsouth.net  Wed Jan 23 20:47:24 2002
From: John Tumas" <drknite@bellsouth.net (John Tumas)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:47:24 -0600
Subject: Power Control Module.
References: <108.c1f1562.29806880@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00d001c1a44f$60114240$8536d7d1@computer2>

From: <Aver99ex@aol.com>
To: <se-r@lists.deskmedia.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 2:27 PM
Subject: Power Control Module.

> <snip>  "JET - V-Force Power Control Module - <snip>
> <snip>is it worth the $203.00? <snip>

 Do you mean the same JET that resocketed a *stock* Nissan chip , & then
sold it as an improvement over a *stock* chip ?

   -John Tumas

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 21:06:45 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:06:45 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <F35grdz5zeVmx1fXrZw000017fa@hotmail.com>

"Thomas Fox" <subculture@speedracer.com> wrote:

>Do you think the SR20VE could pass Cali' emmisions?
>And would it be possible to make it pass the visual?

It might pass the visual if you had a stock air box, exhaust manifold, etc
on it and it all looked stock.

I don't see any way you could pass the California smog test with 11:1
compression ratio and no EGR.  My car at 9.5:1 was a gross polluter for NOx
until I figured out what was wrong and fixed the EGR.  The is was clean as
hell.  HC's would probably be fine, but no way you'd pass NOx

Rob

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 21:08:43 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:08:43 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
Message-ID: <F26aZRhQdOgl4rhYQYx0000bf27@hotmail.com>

"Jorge R." <jorge181@coqui.net> wrote:

>I'm just wondering why a sentra with over 270whp only ran 14.34 on the
>1/4??

No traction.  When SCC tested the car earlier, it posted a 13.8s 1/4 mile
time.

THEY LAUNCHED IN SECOND GEAR!

In the USCC, they launched in 1st, and it was spin city.  Plus, the LSD in
the Potato is now fried from too much turbo power on the race track.

With slicks, the car would do a low 13/high 12, I'm sure.

Rob

From choaderboy2@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 21:08:44 2002
From: choaderboy2@yahoo.com (mike kojima)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:08:44 -0600
Subject: Power Control Module.
In-Reply-To: <108.c1f1562.29806880@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20020123210842.48290.qmail@web12203.mail.yahoo.com>

JET stuff is totaly, completely and absolutly
worthless.  They are a frauduant company that sells
vapor boxes and totaly rip people off.

Stay away from their products like the plauge.

Mike
--- Aver99ex@aol.com wrote:
> Hey guys, i was surfin' through the parts i can get
> at nopi.  and this came
> up  "JET - V-Force Power Control Module - 4cyl -

From stevefoltz@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 21:27:03 2002
From: stevefoltz@hotmail.com (Steve Foltz)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:27:03 -0600
Subject: GC C/C Plate install questions
Message-ID: <F946crSL7JPjYrmQfOc000138ba@hotmail.com>

>    1. there really isn't much you can do with that tube. i tried tweeking
>it
>a little then wrapping it with electrical tape where it contacts the plate.
>if it continues rubbing on the plate it will wear a little spot in the soft
>aluminum.:-)

Here is another idea.  Take the rubber washers isolators out of the gold
metal holder.  Wrap them around the tube.  There is a grove all the way
around that you can slide a zip tie in.  Tighten it down.  Use two rubber
isolators and it wont rub anywhere.

Steve

From LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com  Wed Jan 23 21:30:42 2002
From: LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com (LDMartin)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:30:42 -0600
Subject: Link to V35
References: <190.183c3c9.2980524e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005f01c1a455$0bf0f240$363cc943@LarryMartin>

Pump V35+Skyline into a search engine and see what you get.

Larry Martin
92 Classic

>Subject: Link to V35
> Can someone give me the link to the pic of the new V35 skyline?

From choaderboy2@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 21:36:29 2002
From: choaderboy2@yahoo.com (mike kojima)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:36:29 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
In-Reply-To: <003d01c1a457$60090b40$d33e2ac4@computer>
Message-ID: <20020123213627.52042.qmail@web12203.mail.yahoo.com>

A very green, unprepped track and road racing tires
that were pretty smoked from running at Streets the
day before.

The car has run 13.4 @ 114 on street tires at high
altitude before the USCC event.  Bad conditions also
screwed it up in braking and the skid pad.

If I was given just the slightest budjet and charge
time, I could have put more into the suspension and
gotten the car to do a little better. We did not have
the money to even buy some race gas which would have
allowed us to turn up the boost.  We ran at less than
14 psi.

The car was a last minute addition when Zak's car was
wrecked and we did not even have the time to do one
bit of prep or even order new tires.

Mike

--- "Jorge R." <jorge181@coqui.net> wrote:
> I'm just wondering why a sentra with over 270whp
> only ran 14.34 on the 1/4??
> Driver error? Shitty tires?

From LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com  Wed Jan 23 21:39:34 2002
From: LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com (LDMartin)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:39:34 -0600
Subject: Link to V35
References: <190.183c3c9.2980524e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007601c1a456$49a9ebe0$363cc943@LarryMartin>

> Can someone give me the link to the pic of the new V35 skyline?

Try this:

http://www2.wbs.ne.jp/~y-hat/02-ITS/0204-Skyline/Skyline.htm

Looks just like the G35 to me.

Larry Martin
92 Classic

From dmclauri@ucla.edu  Wed Jan 23 22:04:41 2002
From: dmclauri@ucla.edu (Don)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:04:41 -0600
Subject: Coilovers for G20
References: <20020123202301.A09BA27FAC@dm2.deskmedia.com>
Message-ID: <3C4F32A5.39774ABD@ucla.edu>

Brian Carvalho wrote:
P11 suspension options
> GC w/ KYB $750-800
> GC w/ Koni $950-1000
> Tein NA $975 (this is only lowering springs and struts)
> B&G coilovers $1200
> Jic-Magic $1350 for std. $1500 for 5 rate adj. damping.
I think you forgot GAB adjustable shocks, they can be used with GCs.
There is a P10 front GAB and a B14/Maxima rear GAB.
They cost more than Konis but are externally adjustable. Anybody here
have an idea as to the price? They're supposed to be stiffer than KYBs.
> 1.5" is the lowest you can go on the P11 before running into nasty problems.
As was shown with the B14, having new rear upper mounts on a P11 (which
GC does not supply) like the Motivational Engineering ones helps you
maintain ride quality while allowing more drop.
Don McLaurin
99 G20t

From DanJose52@aol.com  Wed Jan 23 22:09:29 2002
From: DanJose52@aol.com (DanJose52@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:09:29 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <180.2895d52.29808e89@aol.com>

Are the rear rotors on my B15 2.0 the same as any other cars? Altimas? G20s?
Autozone doesn't have my rear rotors in stock, and I'm wondering if there's a
common part here.

Thank you in advance.

Dan Turk

From ianshannon97@msn.com  Wed Jan 23 22:27:16 2002
From: ianshannon97@msn.com (ianshannon97)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:27:16 -0600
Subject: Sr20VE
Message-ID: <000f01c1a45d$4332c8c0$b25fc143@computer>

>>I know somoene who recenlty checked with JUN and it was $2K just to ship
the motor over.<<
Then you better talk to Andreas. He seems to have quite a few of them and has
built a few if I am not mistaken.

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11750&highlight=SR20VE

OK here it goes people here are the answers to your quetions. The SR16VE VVL
N1 200 HP motor cams will not just bolt into the SR16VE VVL 175 HP or into the
SR20VE VVL 190 HP motors.

The regular SR16VE VVL 175 HP motor at 7,800 RPMs and the SR20 VE VVL 190 HP
at 7,000 RPMs parts and cams are interchangable. The SR16 175 HP motor makes
about 109 hp per Litre and the SR20 190 HP motor makes about 95 HP per litre.
These motors have the same 11-1 compression but remember that the rod ratio,
crank stroke and piston volume are diffrent. The piston size on all the VVL
motors are the same 86mm. If you put the pistons from a SR16VE 175 HP motor in
a SR20VE you will get a compression ratio some where in the low 12- 1 region,
if I am correct did that calculation of the top of my head.

If you get the cams from a SR16VE 175 HP motor and put them in a SR20VE motor
you will get about 218 HP at 7,800 RPMs if you follow the HP per displacement
comparison I gave, and compression, head and intake deisgn are all the same
the only changing factor being displacement. Then this power change should be
about equal and linear which would give the figures I gave.

Remeber people that NA HP is much more smoother, quicker delivered and has a
larger area under the curve when compared to simular turbo equiped motors. I
am not saying they make more HP I am saying that NA motors tend to use their
power band more effectivly. You will find that if you have a turbo motor that
runs 14.0 at say 101 MPH in the 1/4 mile and you find a NA motor that runs
14.0 in the 1/4 the NA motor will have a trap speed of about 98 MPH which is 3
miles slower even though these motors ran the same time. The turbo motor will
start to run away after the 1/4 mile but you can see given a certain distance
the NA motor competes with less Hp. The turbo motor will win the 1/2 mile test
and the top speed test just because it has more HP. Get 2 motors with the same
peak HP NA and Turbo, I will take the NA motor because the NA motor will run
quicker 1/4 mile times and get to the top speed just the same as the turbo
motor will.

I will say with confidence that it is very easy to build a low 13 sec SR20VE
VVL motor. Here ist goes . Cams from a SR16VE VVL 175 HP motor. Have a 4 into
1 header made with runners about 32 inchs long and pipe size of 1 3/4 inchs
going into a 2 1/2 in merge collecter. 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Nice cold induction
with a JWT Comp and a Nismo fuel presure regulater. given what I just listed,
I feel that 235 hp is easly had, Or about 205-210 WHP. Also if you compare
that with say a B18 motor that makes that type of WHP these honda motors will
rum in the 13s also but remember that the VVL motors have a much larger and
stronger HP curve as well as torque curve when compared to the B18 VTEC
motors. I have already done this motor test already with a friend in the
islands who has a Pulsar VVL and he bought the SR20VE VVL motor from me and
put his SR16 cams in the motor and put in the same headers I listed and I made
him a cold induction and a 2 1/2 in exhast and the car is a bullet. The car
runs about 12.8-13.2. He has no 1/4 mile track to run it on but has raced
people with cars that have run simular time and he has run even or beaten
them. His car does come with a quicker ratio box which was equiped that way
from factory given it came with the SR16VE motor.

IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY MORE QUETIONS I WILL TRY TO ANSWER THEM QUICKLY.

THANKS ANDREAS MIKO.

91 NX2000 with work.
97 Maxima SE, smooth and powerful automatic
http://www.angelfire.com/ny/ianjiggyroom/IansNX2000page.html

From jorge181@coqui.net  Wed Jan 23 22:27:45 2002
From: jorge181@coqui.net (Jorge R.)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:27:45 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
References: <20020123213627.52042.qmail@web12203.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003201c1a465$913f9540$92db8ad0@computer>

All in all i don't think the car did bad. It's just when saw what that car
had in the engine and only turned up a 14.34 i knew something was very very
wrong there. And also uneducated people that don't know about the
capabilities of this setup read that issue they'll start slinging dung.
Thanks for the responses.

Jorge

From m.whittaker@mindspring.com  Wed Jan 23 23:30:26 2002
From: m.whittaker@mindspring.com (Mike Whittaker)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:30:26 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
References: <20020123213627.52042.qmail@web12203.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3C4F47F4.8D5EF2A0@mindspring.com>

And still came in forth, damn good job Mike and Steve!
FHR

> The car was a last minute addition when Zak's car was wrecked and we did
> not even have the time to do one
> bit of prep or even order new tires. Mike Kojima wrote:

From stevefoltz@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 23:37:43 2002
From: stevefoltz@hotmail.com (Steve Foltz)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:37:43 -0600
Subject: 225/40-16
Message-ID: <F14kF1VlNyF8BK1qTeH00013e14@hotmail.com>

Does anyone know if 225/40 16 will fit a 98 Sentra SE.  I can get some 38 or
40 mm rims pretty easy.  Tire Rack says "probably".  Hoping for a more
definitive answer.

Steve
98 Sentra Se
GC coilover and camber plates.

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 23:44:44 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:44:44 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <180.2895d52.29808e89@aol.com>
References: <180.2895d52.29808e89@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1011829680.30375.47.camel@pugelist>

On Wed, 2002-01-23 at 16:09, DanJose52@aol.com wrote:

> Are the rear rotors on my B15 2.0 the same as any other cars? Altimas? G20s?

While the front and rear pads are the same as the U13 Altima ('93-97),
the front and *rear* rotors are the same as a '98-01 Altima XE/GXE/GLE.
I was wondering about the same thing myself the other day... :)

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From david@b15sentra.net  Wed Jan 23 23:47:15 2002
From: david@b15sentra.net (David Evans)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:47:15 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
References: <180.2895d52.29808e89@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002901c1a468$310e7670$5500a8c0@david>

I've used 1998 Altima pads so I would guess the rotors are the same.  They
also correspond with I believe the 1996 Maxima.  Best bet is to call the
dealer and ask them to cross reference the part numbers.

    -=david

> Are the rear rotors on my B15 2.0 the same as any other cars? Altimas?
G20s?
> Autozone doesn't have my rear rotors in stock, and I'm wondering if
there's a
> common part here.

From dmclauri@ucla.edu  Wed Jan 23 23:51:37 2002
From: dmclauri@ucla.edu (Don)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:51:37 -0600
Subject: Coilovers for G20
References: <B874AC99.AB5%brian@unxplodedbomb.com>
Message-ID: <3C4F4BAF.4D0848B7@ucla.edu>

UXB wrote:
> I've tried shortening the bump stop but then there
> were issues with rubbing due to the wheel travelling
> up to far in the fender.
What size of wheels/tires do you have? I found I could drop at least 2"
with stockers if I wanted to without rubbing. Also, do you use Koni
urethane bumpstops?
Another interesting thing to try would be longer springs. At least with
the Koni shocks, you could get springs at least an inch longer than the
ones GC has in the kit and it should still fit OK. I'm thinking a longer
spring at a higher rate would allow you to go a little lower safely?
Don McLaurin
99 G20t

From probedude@hotmail.com  Wed Jan 23 23:58:29 2002
From: probedude@hotmail.com (Probe Dude)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:58:29 -0600
Subject: Donating your car for a tax write off?
Message-ID: <F201JWEsBk31TZ14eBa00003549@hotmail.com>

Which was my case.  My itemized deductions was less than my standard
deduction so I received no tax benefit from donating either of my cars.

From mrsentra@hayler.navy.mil  Thu Jan 24 00:22:19 2002
From: mrsentra@hayler.navy.mil (Soonthorn, Marvin STG2(SW) (HAYLER))
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:22:19 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E0FD@dd997ubd01.hayler.
 navy.mil>

Since we are on the B15 brake subject... I haven't seen on the B15 boards
yet, but has anyone upgraded rotors to say, slotted or cross drilled yet?
I'm guessing if there's an application for Altima's or as David said '96
Maxs, it could be done. Just looking to add to my SMC brake line upgrade. =)

	Marvin
	'00 B15 SE with mods

> While the front and rear pads are the same as the U13 Altima ('93-97),
> the front and *rear* rotors are the same as a '98-01 Altima XE/GXE/GLE.
> I was wondering about the same thing myself the other day... :)

From SeattleSER@aol.com  Thu Jan 24 00:53:29 2002
From: SeattleSER@aol.com (SeattleSER@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:53:29 -0600
Subject: Which power steering pump on a det?
Message-ID: <150.7ae03f6.2980b504@aol.com>

so the DET's power steering pump is different from the 94-99 low port SR20's?

Nollan
97 SE-R

From david@b15sentra.net  Thu Jan 24 01:07:47 2002
From: david@b15sentra.net (David Evans)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:07:47 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
References: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E0FD@dd997ubd01.hayler.
 navy.mil>
Message-ID: <00cb01c1a473$70efe9d0$5500a8c0@david>

Greendot did the stillen upgrade.  Upgraded rotors really arean't all they
are cracked up to be.  They will wear the pads faster and don't provide
really any measurable amount of increase in braking power.  Just get some
upgraded pads and you will be more than happy.  I got the metal masters for
the street and they are great.

> Since we are on the B15 brake subject... I haven't seen on the B15 boards
> yet, but has anyone upgraded rotors to say, slotted or cross drilled yet?
> I'm guessing if there's an application for Altima's or as David said '96
> Maxs, it could be done. Just looking to add to my SMC brake line upgrade.
=)

From khart@usit.net  Thu Jan 24 01:19:25 2002
From: khart@usit.net (Kevin J. Hart)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:19:25 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
References: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E0FD@dd997ubd01.hayler.
 navy.mil>
Message-ID: <001101c1a475$233c7c60$0200a8c0@bowlcut>

lol if you think cross drills give you any extra stoping ability, ive got a
large can of air, or this snipe in a bag i caught ill sell ya.

seriously they dont do crap for stopping.  unless you are running on the
ragged edge in high speeds, and i mean high not 90mph, then they help a bit.
all they do is look "cool" to some people and end up cracking.

get you some new stock rotors and a good set of pads you will be set.

Kevin
93 classic (Automatic, Stuff)
trying to dispute the misinformation on cross drilling
or as i say "on a mission from god"

> yet, but has anyone upgraded rotors to say, slotted or cross drilled yet?

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 01:50:21 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:50:21 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E0FD@dd997ubd01.hayler
 . navy.mil>
References: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E0FD@dd997ubd01.hayler.
 navy.mil>
Message-ID: <1011837216.30471.68.camel@pugelist>

On Wed, 2002-01-23 at 18:22, Soonthorn, Marvin STG2(SW) (HAYLER) wrote:

> Since we are on the B15 brake subject... I haven't seen on the B15 boards
> yet, but has anyone upgraded rotors to say, slotted or cross drilled yet?

Well, strictly speaking, those aren't much of an upgrade unless you're
tracking.  I've had cars before, though, that I've had to pull the pads
every couple of months and sand the glaze off of, but the SE hasn't done
that to me yet.  Slotted rotors are known to reduce this phenomena, if
you're having trouble with it, but also tend to chew pads quicker than
standard rotors.

> I'm guessing if there's an application for Altima's or as David said '96
> Maxs, it could be done. Just looking to add to my SMC brake line upgrade. =)

Power Performance (maker of the PowerSlot brand) does not have a rotor
application for the U14/B15 that I can see, but I want to cross-
reference the rotor P/Ns with other Infinity products to make sure that
I'm not missing anything.  I want PowerSlot because they're available in
Silver Cad, IOW, it's an appearance upgrade. :)  Fun thing; if you type
these P/Ns into Google:

  40206-9E001 - B15 and U14 Front brake rotor and
  43206-9E601 - B15 and U14 Rear brake rotor

You get exactly two results each; the Courtesy Parts pages for brake
parts on the respective platforms. :)

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 01:59:30 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:59:30 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <001101c1a475$233c7c60$0200a8c0@bowlcut>
References: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E0FD@dd997ubd01.hayler.
 navy.mil>  <001101c1a475$233c7c60$0200a8c0@bowlcut>
Message-ID: <1011837765.30471.73.camel@pugelist>

On Wed, 2002-01-23 at 19:19, Kevin J. Hart wrote:

> lol if you think cross drills give you any extra stoping ability, ive got a
> large can of air, or this snipe in a bag i caught ill sell ya.

Hehe.  Well, ever since I upgraded my muffler bearings, it *has* been
kind of hard for me to keep my foot out of the throttle.  With the
damned jackelope population around here...

> get you some new stock rotors and a good set of pads you will be set.

On the other hand, though the B15 brakes are massive compared to
anything not aftermarket or designed for 2x as much horsepower, they
also have to stop a car that's quite a bit heavier and balanced quite
differently than a Classic.  Just random comments. :)

> Kevin
> 93 classic (Automatic, Stuff)
> trying to dispute the misinformation on cross drilling
> or as i say "on a mission from god"

I'm right there with you, man.  I don't even like the way drilled rotors
look...

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From mrsentra@hayler.navy.mil  Thu Jan 24 02:01:45 2002
From: mrsentra@hayler.navy.mil (Soonthorn, Marvin STG2(SW) (HAYLER))
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:01:45 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E104@dd997ubd01.hayler.
 navy.mil>

Well..Thanks for the information, but I'm highly aware what they are capable
of. I'm interested in the looks of either cross drilled or slotted. I'm
totally into spending money on things that actually work well for the money,
so I'm already set on just getting good pads. Thanks again.

Marvin
'00 B15 SE with mods

> lol if you think cross drills give you any extra stoping ability, ive got
> a
> large can of air, or this snipe in a bag i caught ill sell ya.

From mrsentra@hayler.navy.mil  Thu Jan 24 02:54:13 2002
From: mrsentra@hayler.navy.mil (Soonthorn, Marvin STG2(SW) (HAYLER))
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:54:13 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <420E095C1FDCD41197120000F4A2843F0166E102@dd997ubd01.hayler.
 navy.mil>

	Awesome David, thanks for the info! =)

	Marvin
	'00 B15 SE with mods

> Just get some
> upgraded pads and you will be more than happy.  I got the metal masters
> for
> the street and they are great.

From mena.ka@verizon.net  Thu Jan 24 02:58:49 2002
From: mena.ka@verizon.net (Mena Aqenenni)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:58:49 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <F35grdz5zeVmx1fXrZw000017fa@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <001401c1a482$daf0c340$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>

> I don't see any way you could pass the California smog test
> with 11:1 compression ratio and no EGR.

So basically, a VE engine wouldn't be a good choice for a CA car unless
an EGR valve could be grafted onto the intake manifold. That sucks! I
wanted that engine too. Anyone out there know how to go about putting an
EGR valve on that intake manifold? I'm ignorant but this doesn't seem
like it would be hard to do. Cut a hole on the manifold and connect a DE
EGR valve on there. Fab a pipe to go from the exhaust manifold to the
EGR. Would it be this simple?

Mena
92 Classic
01 G20t

From jwhitely2000@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 03:38:39 2002
From: jwhitely2000@yahoo.com (Jay Whitely)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:38:39 -0600
Subject: Which power steering pump on a det?
In-Reply-To: <150.7ae03f6.2980b504@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20020124033837.25026.qmail@web9205.mail.yahoo.com>

> so the DET's power steering pump is different from
> the 94-99 low port SR20's?

***The pumps are the same between the years. However,
it is the metal elbow that the upper suction hose
attaches to that is different. If you try to use a low
port ps pump on a high port motor, this metal elbow
will be in the way of the high port plenum.  By the
way, this metal elbow is held on by 2 bolts. All you
need is the elbow, not the whole pump.

The 1994 low port does not have this problem however.
It has the older stlye high port pump.

If you have a 1995+ low port, you will want a high
port pump (or elbow) with your DET swap. I don't know
why they changed the elbow. The high port elbow works
fine with the low port motor.

=====
Jay Whitely
Tampa, FL
1996 200SX SE-R
GTi-R powered, F-MAX Stage 2

From mark@markchiles.com  Thu Jan 24 03:44:26 2002
From: mark@markchiles.com (Mark Chiles)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:44:26 -0600
Subject: Warning: Notice of Another Garage Sale of Classic SE-R Parts
Message-ID: <000201c1a489$5119ba80$0201a8c0@tampabay.rr.com>

Hi, again.

In the next day or so, I plan to resume posting Classic '91 - '92 Nissan
Sentra SE-R parts on the SE-R Deals list.

Despite the actions of a few vocal dissenters, these internet garage sales
have been very popular and successful.

I will post these items on the SE-R Deals List only.

Some items will be "For Sale", others "Free to a Good Home", "Make Offer" or
may be a "Repost" of a previously posted item.

Please subscribe to the SE-R Deals List if you wish to receive these emails
as I will not post the items to individual email addresses or to the main
list.

To subscribe to the SE-R deals list mail to majordomo@lists.deskmedia.com:

	subscribe se-r-deals

If you do not wish to view these emails, please unsubscribe to the se-r
deals list, set your email filters to 'stun' or just hit the Delete key (The
easiest and preferred method).

To unsubscribe to the SE-R deal list mail to majordomo@lists.deskmedia.com:

	unsubscribe se-r-deals

So, load up your PayPal account or make sure your delete key works.

Remember, "One Man's Trash May Be Another Man's Treasure".

Mark Chiles

From NismoDriver@aol.com  Thu Jan 24 03:57:35 2002
From: NismoDriver@aol.com (NismoDriver@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:57:35 -0600
Subject: tire sizes on SE-R wheels
Message-ID: <196.18c8cb0.2980e028@aol.com>

Has anyone had any luck stuffing a 205mm tire on a classic SE-R wheel? I am
considering using them for drag radials, but the BFG's only come in
205-50-14. Thanks!
                   John

From Aver99ex@aol.com  Thu Jan 24 04:18:54 2002
From: Aver99ex@aol.com (Aver99ex@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:18:54 -0600
Subject: tire sizes on SE-R wheels
Message-ID: <116.b1c1458.2980e521@aol.com>

Hey, i did have Yoko 205/55/14;s on my classic, No problem....the tire is
actually a litle to big for the wheel thogh, there is a little bit of
hangover, (thats what i call it) where there is an angle on the tirewall.  if
you are autoxxn' i think 195's would be perfect. but i saw on tv somehwere
"wider is better" :-)
hope that helps

Dennis w/ 91 Classic

From Sk8rdi16@cs.com  Thu Jan 24 04:39:26 2002
From: Sk8rdi16@cs.com (Sk8rdi16@cs.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:39:26 -0600
Subject: What causes CV joints to go bad?
Message-ID: <d6.111e92af.2980e983@cs.com>

I have had my CV joints replaced twice within a 6 month period.  It was done
by a pretty reputable shop. They gave me lifetime warranty on both.  So my
question is what is the cause of my inner cv joint going bad? The guy said it
was bad motor mounts, then he preceded to rock my car by popping the clutch
about 60 times. Then he said I lowered it wrong.  I have the hypercoil
springs and KYB AGX.  Could it be my motor mounts are bad. If so how do can I
tell? Thanks in advance!

Pat
91 SE-R

From mark@markchiles.com  Thu Jan 24 04:41:34 2002
From: mark@markchiles.com (Mark Chiles)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:41:34 -0600
Subject: Subscribe or Unsubscribe to SE-R Deals List
Message-ID: <000001c1a491$4cd00940$0201a8c0@tampabay.rr.com>

Majordomo is not serving the list anymore.
The list web site is http://lists.deskmedia.com/se-r-deals

This is where people need to go to subscribe or unsubscribe.

From ser@luminus.cx  Thu Jan 24 06:19:37 2002
From: ser@luminus.cx (Aaron K)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 00:19:37 -0600
Subject: need help troubleshooting engine issue (long)
Message-ID: <GIEALGDPLPCAPPLGMOEBCECADIAA.ser@luminus.cx>

Well, a couple days ago I was going to change the oil in the sr20, and upon
removing the oil fill cap, I saw vapors coming out and a very definate gas
smell.:( That can't be good... I have had poor gas milage for a while now
(about 20-22 mpg, mostly city driving and not lead footing it everywhere)
but I figured that was probably due to the O2 sensor. I have no idea how old
it is.

Here is what I know so far: About 6-8 months ago I had a compression and
leakdown test done, and it the compression was within spec (3 cylinders were
175 and one was 180) with no major leakdown problems. The cooling system
held pressure too. I have had issues with the car burning a lot of oil at
one point, about .5 quarts every 500-800 miles, but that seemed to stop on
its own. Also, the PCV system is working (new valve) and I can't see any
evidence of a leaky injector (I turned the ignition on with the spark plugs
removed and didn't see any gas pooling up on top of the pistons).

Not that its necessarily related, but I have the typical startup clatter
even if i let the car sit for just an hour or two. I remember feeling that
on most other peoples cars it only happened if it sat for several hours or
overnight. The reason I mention this is that twice before I have had some
startup-clatter-type noise only about 5x-10x as loud and just as temporary.
Scared the crap out of me, and I don't know what it was or what caused it.
The engine also has a new timing chain tensioner, and after pullling off the
valve cover tonight, it looks like everything is ok. The timing chain guides
seem like they are in good shape, and the tensioner plunger is extended.

Regarding the gas smell in the oil, could one or more of my valve guides or
seals be shot? Is there anyway I can really tell? What else would cause
this?

Oh, something else that struck me as odd: When I had the valve cover off,
the exhaust valve springs, the spring retainers, and the immediate area
seemed noticably darker and dirtier than the intake valves/springs. Is this
typical? (here is a picture:
http://www.luminus.cx/pics/unlinked/valvetrain.jpg)

I also pulled my intake off to look inside the throttle body. I cleaned it
before, but its all gummed up again, and I can also smell a hint of gas in
the oil gum left in the bottom of the intake manifold.

Does anyone with more experience with these engines have any idea what could
be causing this? Any help is greatly appreciated,

Aaron

(maybe its time to buy a sr20ve...)

From spdracer@mail.utexas.edu  Thu Jan 24 07:18:21 2002
From: spdracer@mail.utexas.edu (spdracer@mail.utexas.edu)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 01:18:21 -0600
Subject: weird high pitch pinging noise?
Message-ID: <1011856700.3c4fb53c13ecb@webmailapp1.cc.utexas.edu>

I got home from a drive tonight and noticed a weird metallic high pitch pinging
noise that hadn't been there before as I was pulling into my parking space.  I
tried to find the source and it seems to be coming from kinda down low near the
turbo.  It only seems to occur at idle and it only happens every 10 or so
seconds.  My oil pressure and oil level are fine, didn't rev past 7k, stock
boost pressure, and I've driven the car a lot harder than this before.  I never
heard any detonation (though I'm not positive I know what detonation sounds
like).

Possible spun bearing?  I need to change the oil soon so I'll be poking around
the engine some.

Khiem

From MidPerfHQ@aol.com  Thu Jan 24 07:20:22 2002
From: MidPerfHQ@aol.com (MidPerfHQ@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 01:20:22 -0600
Subject: RWD Valve Covers on FWD Motors
Message-ID: <131.7a86296.29810fb3@aol.com>

Do the valve covers off of the rear-wheel drive
DET's fit on our FWD SR20's? What are the differences? I like the fact that there is a cover
over the spark plug wires. Any knowledge would
be appreciated.

Thanks.

Bob
'97 SE-R

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 07:26:33 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 01:26:33 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <002901c1a468$310e7670$5500a8c0@david>
References: <180.2895d52.29808e89@aol.com>
 <002901c1a468$310e7670$5500a8c0@david>
Message-ID: <1011857389.30375.146.camel@pugelist>

On Wed, 2002-01-23 at 17:47, David Evans wrote:

> I've used 1998 Altima pads so I would guess the rotors are the same.

A quick check with CourtesyParts.com verifies this; I somehow missed
that last time...

> They also correspond with I believe the 1996 Maxima.

Data at Courtesy Parts' online store does not confirm this, but it only
lists part numbers, not dimensions.

> Best bet is to call the dealer and ask them to cross reference the part
> numbers.

I'm compiling a list of some interesting stuff.  Stay tuned...

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From spdracer@mail.utexas.edu  Thu Jan 24 07:50:11 2002
From: spdracer@mail.utexas.edu (spdracer@mail.utexas.edu)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 01:50:11 -0600
Subject: weird high pitch pinging noise?
In-Reply-To: <OE71jfUKWTa9tfmKsX00000dc5c@hotmail.com>
References: <1011856700.3c4fb53c13ecb@webmailapp1.cc.utexas.edu>
 <OE71jfUKWTa9tfmKsX00000dc5c@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <1011858609.3c4fbcb2024d4@webmailapp1.cc.utexas.edu>

After sifting throught the archives the past half hour or so, I'm starting to
think it's detonation.... but why would it be detonating at idle?  Running 93
octane gas, have a front mount IC, and it's not hot outside (upper 70's)though
it is really humid.  And it randomly happens around 10-20 seconds or so.  It's
not totally consistent.  When I change the oil, I'm going to check the turbo
shaft for any play.  It's the only easy thing to check right now that I can
think of.  Hmm... guess I'll check the plugs too.

> Spun bearings have always sounds like a low deep knocking noise to me.
> Doubt this is what you are hearing.
> Dave

> > I got home from a drive tonight and noticed a weird metallic high
> pitch> pinging> > noise that hadn't been there before as I was pulling into my
parking> space.

From nx2ked@hotmail.com  Thu Jan 24 09:42:32 2002
From: nx2ked@hotmail.com (NX 2000)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 03:42:32 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F143tQlGpf83sntGWIx00006b9a@hotmail.com>

More monkey dung.  Funny how you are not telling the whole story and
contradicing yourself.
Cross drilled rotors and slotted rotors are supposed to be better than a
normal rotor because the extra surface area from the slots and drill holes
help cooling the brakes, in theory anyways.
And under heavy braking, the pads will produce some sort of gas and this gas
somehow is caught between the pads and rotors reducing the effectiveness of
the brakes, again in theory.
All this can be found in SE-R.net under brakes.  I believe it was written by
Mike K.

Edwen

>From: "Kevin J. Hart" <khart@usit.net>

>lol if you think cross drills give you any extra stoping ability, ive got a
>large can of air, or this snipe in a bag i caught ill sell ya.

>seriously they dont do crap for stopping

From david@b15sentra.net  Thu Jan 24 10:47:08 2002
From: david@b15sentra.net (David Evans)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 04:47:08 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
References: <F143tQlGpf83sntGWIx00006b9a@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <004e01c1a4c1$1d70a710$5500a8c0@david>

To add further to this, Mike sentiments are very clearly stated here..

http://www.sentra.net/tech/garage/brakes.shtml

It is a very good read if people haven't read it already, it also states
what he thinks of slotted/cross drilled rotors.

    -=david

From Sentra9D1SER@aol.com  Thu Jan 24 10:49:52 2002
From: Sentra9D1SER@aol.com (Sentra9D1SER@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 04:49:52 -0600
Subject: HP RACING HEADER??
Message-ID: <d3.56284df.298140cb@aol.com>

Has any one heard any thing or know any thing about this header?
It's listed on EBAY for $350, here is the address:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600684708&
r=0&t=0

Any suggestions on headers, whats out there, whats the BEST?

Thanks,
Darel
Sentra 9D1 SE-R@aol.com

From sr20de@epix.net  Thu Jan 24 13:35:46 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 07:35:46 -0600
Subject: weird high pitch pinging noise?
References: <1011856700.3c4fb53c13ecb@webmailapp1.cc.utexas.edu>
Message-ID: <3C500DC4.294B0AC3@epix.net>

spdracer@mail.utexas.edu wrote:

> turbo.  It only seems to occur at idle and it only happens every 10 or so
> seconds.  My oil pressure and oil level are fine, didn't rev past 7k, stock
> boost pressure, and I've driven the car a lot harder than this before.  I never

Get a stethoscope and use that to track down where its coming from.
My BOV makes a sound similar to that.  It's quite annoying.

RK

From mena.ka@verizon.net  Thu Jan 24 13:38:18 2002
From: mena.ka@verizon.net (Mena Aqenenni)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 07:38:18 -0600
Subject: HP RACING HEADER??
In-Reply-To: <d3.56284df.298140cb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301c1a4dc$30b1bec0$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>

Any suggestions on headers, whats out there, whats the BEST?

Check out http://www.se-r-list.org/archives/ for more info on headers.

Mena
92 Classic
01 G20t

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Thu Jan 24 14:43:41 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:43:41 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA83@HORIZON>

>I'm just wondering why a sentra with over 270whp only ran 14.34 on the
1/4??

Where are you seeing these results?

Post the whole timeslip and we can dissect it and tell if it was driver
error or whatnot.

-Jay

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Thu Jan 24 14:45:11 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:45:11 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA84@HORIZON>

>The car was a last minute addition when Zak's car was
>wrecked

When did Zak's car get wrecked? I read the "some last minute changes" thing
and assumed it was still because Zak was having a motor problem. (What ever
happened with that?) But I haven't heard anything about a(nother) wreck.

-Jay

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Thu Jan 24 14:47:51 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:47:51 -0600
Subject: Sr20VE
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA85@HORIZON>

>If you get the cams from a SR16VE 175 HP motor and put them in a
>SR20VE motor you will get about 218 HP at 7,800 RPMs

You got a dyno chart showing this?

>Remeber people that NA HP is much more smoother, quicker
>delivered and has a larger area under the curve when
>compared to simular turbo equiped motors.

You got a dyno chart showing this?

>I will say with confidence that it is very easy to build a low 13 sec
SR20VE VVL motor.

You got a timeslip showing this?

Coulda, woulda, shoulda is great, but it ain't the truth until it's proven.

-Jay

From Qualudia101@aol.com  Thu Jan 24 15:14:46 2002
From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:14:46 -0600
Subject: weird high pitch pinging noise?
Message-ID: <14a.7c0df8b.29817ecd@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/23/2002 11:51:34 PM Pacific Standard Time,
spdracer@mail.utexas.edu writes:

> After sifting throughout the archives the past half hour or so, I'm starting
> to
> think it's detonation.... but why would it be detonating at idle?  Running
> 93
> octane gas, have a front mount IC, and it's not hot outside (upper
> 70's)though
> it is really humid.  And it randomly happens around 10-20 seconds or so.
> It's
> not totally consistent.

I have a similar sound,however it only occurs as the tach hits between 3300
to  3500 RPM with the headlights on,and gets somewhat louder with the fog
lights on. Very annoying,as I too keep thinking it's pinging, but  I have set
the timing to 5 deg used 103 octane pump gas and still same. Don't think it
affects the performance at all. Dealer says it is coming from something loose
in the header down pipe(what do they know or even care on a  modified car).
If I keep the motor at exactly 3500 RPM(hard to do sometimes) (no load) it
sounds like a high pitched ringing. Again seems to relate to power drain
somehow,does the same with the Air on too. Leave it all off life is sweet,not
a sound........confused!!!

Frank 93 SE-R 65K original Miles
Stillen Headers
JWT POP and ECU
HKS Exhaust
Stillen Strut Tower
ST and KYB G-2s

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 15:32:35 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:32:35 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <004e01c1a4c1$1d70a710$5500a8c0@david>
References: <F143tQlGpf83sntGWIx00006b9a@hotmail.com>
 <004e01c1a4c1$1d70a710$5500a8c0@david>
Message-ID: <1011886552.32370.2.camel@pugelist>

Here's that data I promised to B15 owners last night, too.  This one's
for the archives.  The B15 rotors are the same as the L30 ('98-01
Altima) rotors, and the B15 pads are the same part number as the U13
('93-97 Altima).  I put a table displaying this information here:

  http://www.whack.org/~dren/b15-data/B15_Brake_Crossreference.html

There will be more information later; this is kind of minimal.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From DanJose52@aol.com  Thu Jan 24 15:35:09 2002
From: DanJose52@aol.com (DanJose52@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:35:09 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <177.29790d6.298183a2@aol.com>

That's incredibly helpful, thank you.... off to autozone.com now :)

In a message dated 1/24/2002 10:33:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
cowboydren@yahoo.com writes:

>   http://www.whack.org/~dren/b15-data/B15_Brake_Crossreference.html

From jwhitely2000@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 16:32:58 2002
From: jwhitely2000@yahoo.com (Jay Whitely)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 10:32:58 -0600
Subject: RWD Valve Covers on FWD Motors
In-Reply-To: <131.7a86296.29810fb3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20020124163257.76653.qmail@web9208.mail.yahoo.com>

> Do the valve covers off of the rear-wheel drive
> DET's fit on our FWD SR20's?

**No. The RWD valve cover is longer than the FWD valve
cover.  The spark plug holes on the RWD are a lot
larger and there is no "half moon" at the end for the
distributor housing.

=====
Jay Whitely
Tampa, FL
1996 200SX SE-R
GTi-R powered, F-MAX Stage 2

From jwhitely2000@yahoo.com  Wed Jan 23 17:44:23 2002
From: jwhitely2000@yahoo.com (Jay Whitely)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:44:23 -0600
Subject: (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <F24u6WPvMDqsGA9cwdv0000d6fa@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20020123174422.18507.qmail@web9204.mail.yahoo.com>

> whats up all? just want to know if any one knows of
> a reputable shop to do
> an sr20det swap and just general and performance
> work in south floida
> from west palm beach to the north keys

***Yes, Andreas Miko is the person to talk to down
there for sure.  His number is 305-282-3643. Tell him
that Jay Whitely from Tampa sent you.

Good luck,

=====
Jay Whitely
Tampa, FL
1996 200SX SE-R
GTi-R powered, F-MAX Stage 2

From John Tumas" <drknite@bellsouth.net  Wed Jan 23 21:07:38 2002
From: John Tumas" <drknite@bellsouth.net (John Tumas)
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:07:38 -0600
Subject: (no subject)
References: <F24u6WPvMDqsGA9cwdv0000d6fa@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <00f901c1a452$33494d40$8536d7d1@computer2>

From: <gsr1997@msn.com>
To: <se-r@lists.deskmedia.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 8:24 PM
Subject: (no subject)

> whats up all? just want to know if any one knows of a reputable shop to do
> an sr20det swap and just general and performance work in south floida
> from west palm beach to the north keys
> any information is appreciated

  Jeff , you need to learn to do a lot of work yourself. I owned the Nx for
7 years , & in all of that time I could not find anyone who could do even
the most basic work with out screwing something up.
I couldn't find anyone in Palm Beach County that I would trust

  John Tumas

From antoniog@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 16:59:12 2002
From: antoniog@yahoo.com (Antonio Garcia)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 10:59:12 -0600
Subject: 91 SE-R now with DET + TMIC data
Message-ID: <20020124165911.3959.qmail@web10507.mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Everyone,

I don't post much, but I just wanted to give some props where they are
due. This past weekend, myself and a bunch of Nor-Cal SE-R guys placed
a clean DET from SR20 Development into my 91 SE-R. Huge thanks to Luis
Molina for letting us do the swap at his house. Also to Andrew Phan,
Walter Catalan, Erik Olsen, Anthony in the Air Force (forgot your last
name), Larry Low, Sherman Mui and many others that helped out this
weekend. It was a great BAM!

The DET is great! It was from a manual transmission BB and it was
really clean. It was just like a DE, the TPS was the same, the tranny
bolted up to the block using all bolts, and the passenger side bracket
used all 3 holes. The archives helped a lot with the install.

I'm still running the TMIC (I know, bad idea - especially with no hood
scoop), but SR20 Development's FMIC kit is coming in the mail soon. I
bought a cheapish Radio Shack indoor/outdoor thermometer to monitor the
intake charge after the IC. Scary data - Cruising along at 2K rpms, the
temp reads 80-85 F, on the highway at 80mph (4K rpms) 90-92 F, and when
you get on boost, I've seen the temps get as high as 122 F!!! And this
is on cool nights in the Bay Area, when the outside temp is 40 F.
Obviously that air isn't getting to the IC, so I'm taking it easy until
that kit comes in. I plan to take some readings with the BB IC mounted
up front and then with a larger Spearco intercooler that has been Swain
Coated (need that sleeper look). I'll see if I can get some data on the
Spearco before the coating has been applied.

Anyways, thanks again to the list for its awesome knowledge and to the
Bay Area SE-R guys.

Antonio Garcia
91 SE-R w/ DET, 2.5" downpipe, DSM 1st gen BOV, Zex flywheel, UR
pullies, GReddy exhaust (soon to be 3"), NX Brakes, B14 wheels, and
Molina ghostpower tricks. ;-)

From choaderboy2@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 17:06:46 2002
From: choaderboy2@yahoo.com (mike kojima)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:06:46 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
In-Reply-To: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA84@HORIZON>
Message-ID: <20020124170644.45619.qmail@web12204.mail.yahoo.com>

Zak got hit by a moron driving an Xterra right after
we were working on his car on his way home.  It
totaled the car just a week before the USCC.

Mike

--- Joe Stewart <jstewart@eCompanyStore.com> wrote:

> When did Zak's car get wrecked?

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Thu Jan 24 17:12:04 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:12:04 -0600
Subject: What causes CV joints to go bad?
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA95@HORIZON>

>I have had my CV joints replaced twice within a 6 month period.

Which joints specifically? (Inner/outer, drivers side/passenger side)
Exactly how are the joints failing? (Are the needle bearings coming apart?
Are the boots splitting?)
How many miles on the car?
What are the conditions of the motor mounts?

I don't think it's possible for a lowered car to screw up joints. That's
just a mechanic who is trying to get out of the work and the warranty. There
are plenty of other people here with hypercoils, and even springs that are
much lower without problems. Hell, I had intrax for 3 years that lower the
car 2" and I never wore out a single joint. So the problem lies elsewhere,
probable bad mounts, bad product (replacement joints/axles) or bad install.

-Jay

From Zak.Nilsson@latimes.com  Thu Jan 24 17:29:16 2002
From: Zak.Nilsson@latimes.com (Nilsson, Zak)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:29:16 -0600
Subject: USCC Results
Message-ID: <4F77088E1C18204A908F0E11EAA743EB039DA691@GOOSE>

> When did Zak's car get wrecked? I read the "some last minute changes" thing
> and assumed it was still because Zak was having a motor problem. (What ever
> happened with that?) But I haven't heard anything about a(nother) wreck.

Yeah, what Mike said. The insurance company totalled the car. The rings
didn't seat correctly (we had 20% leakdown in cyl #2!) so it was blowing
white smoke but we were going to run it like that anyway for the USCC and
then take it apart afterwards. As it stands now, I bought a Sentra E model
and we're going to swap everything from my SE-R into it. Rob and I are going
to take apart the motor and try to figure out why the rings didn't seat and
hopefully fix it.

-Zak

From griffser@hotmail.com  Thu Jan 24 17:45:40 2002
From: griffser@hotmail.com (Pat Griffith)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:45:40 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F139SwiINIvC1uJIKLG000076fc@hotmail.com>

>Cross drilled rotors and slotted rotors are supposed
>to be better than a normal rotor because the extra
>surface area from the slots and drill holes help cooling the brakes, in
>theory anyways.

How does removing material by drilling holes give brake rotors "extra
surface area"??  Talk about contradictions ...

Also, there is a difference between slotting and drilling.

>All this can be found in SE-R.net under brakes. I believe it was written by
>Mike K.

Alright, Mike says: "I myself think that drilled stock rotors or sport
rotors may be somewhat questionable because since small stock brakes are run
close to their thermal limit with high performance pads, the drilling can
contribute to cracking  ... Drilled real racing brakes with sufficient
thermal capacity are functional and useful ... Overall, I feel that drilled
sport rotors are mostly a cosmetic trick and have never tested drilled,
slotted and solid back to back."

Is that the part in question?  I have not tested this, but in theory, a
cracked brake rotor will not help a car slow down better.

In most SCCA-level (i.e., amateur) autocross and road-racing classes,
cross-drilled rotors are not allowed, and nobody cares.  They whine about
rules on seats, ECU's, restrictions on air dams, tires, etc., but none of
them whine about not being able to use cross-drilled rotors.  Gee, maybe
because they have seen/heard real-world experiences (not "in theory") with
cross-drilled rotors and determined cross-drilled rotors aren't any better
than non-drilled rotors.

It's a free country and you can go ahead and buy cross-drilled rotors for
your car, but don't try and justify them as performance upgrades unless the
rotors you're replacing are worn paper-thin.

Pat

From sylvain_laplante@yahoo.ca  Thu Jan 24 17:53:56 2002
From: sylvain_laplante@yahoo.ca (Sylvain Laplante)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:53:56 -0600
Subject: What causes CV joints to go bad?
In-Reply-To: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA95@HORIZON>
Message-ID: <20020124175355.8669.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com>

Hi,

	   I apologize if this reply goes to the wrong place, this is my first reply
to the mailing  list... :-)

	   I was a Honda mechanic a long time ago ( 80-82) and I did replace many
	driveshafts/constant-velocity joints, but it always turned out that the cause
	was either a broken boot that allowed water/salt to wipe the grease out, or
	drivers who constantly accelerate hard while turning in tight corners (
streets
	). This is probably also true for Nissan cars... Personally I don`t think
	lowering a car would make such a difference-not worst than having 2-3
	passengers ;-)

	  Of course, this only applies for the external ( outer ) joints

Sylvain Laplante
95 se-r and 2002 se-r in 3 weeks :-)

______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca

From jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com  Thu Jan 24 18:25:35 2002
From: jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com (Jason Garrett Young)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:25:35 -0600
Subject: Tial 35mm wastegate, price and where
Message-ID: <001c01c1a4e5$81e63ba0$cd36a93f@hppav>

what is the going price on this?
where can I buy it?

thanks
jason garrett young

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 18:27:04 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:27:04 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <F139SwiINIvC1uJIKLG000076fc@hotmail.com>
References: <F139SwiINIvC1uJIKLG000076fc@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <1011897020.32370.20.camel@pugelist>

On Thu, 2002-01-24 at 11:45, Pat Griffith wrote:

> How does removing material by drilling holes give brake rotors "extra
> surface area"??  Talk about contradictions ...

He said surface area, which is correct.  Conversely, mass was reduced.
He didn't contradict himself, you misunderstood the terms used.

> It's a free country and you can go ahead and buy cross-drilled rotors for
> your car, but don't try and justify them as performance upgrades unless the
> rotors you're replacing are worn paper-thin.

Absolutely.  Can we drop the bickering?  This has been hashed and
rehashed quite enough already.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From griffser@hotmail.com  Thu Jan 24 18:38:04 2002
From: griffser@hotmail.com (Pat Griffith)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:38:04 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F176Sm3olwRhD54wG8n0000ac54@hotmail.com>

>it would depend on the thickness of the material, if the
>loss of diameter is less than the increase of the
>circumference X the thickness of the rotor, you gain
>surface area that is air cooled

So you gain surface are that is cooled but you lose surface
area that is making contact with the brake pad.  Air is
cheap -- I could make some brake ducts out of material
from Home Depot if I was really concerned about keeping
rotors cool.  Why compromise the performance of a high-
performance brake pad by swiss-cheesing a rotor?

Pat

From SE-RGuz@worldnet.att.net  Thu Jan 24 18:45:47 2002
From: SE-RGuz@worldnet.att.net (Fernando Guzman)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:45:47 -0600
Subject: FOR SALE: Borla Muffler
References: <20020124170102.62F7A2805C@dm2.deskmedia.com>
Message-ID: <004801c1a507$015cd620$83845b0c@default>

Borla Muffler is for sale, its the same one that Barry Brown was selling a
while back. Its good for autoX. I never put it on the car and I prolly am
Not going to so I figure I might as well sell it and see it what I can get.
I bought it for $95, i think.

Barry said it gave him the second best times out of four other mufflers he
used so I guess its pretty good.

Anyway, e-mail me back if interested.
SE-RGuz@worldnet.att.net

From badahab@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 18:49:14 2002
From: badahab@yahoo.com (sean mcmahon)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:49:14 -0600
Subject: link to the ghetto corners on a web page
Message-ID: <20020124184912.22726.qmail@web13506.mail.yahoo.com>

I got a lot of people ask me for the pics of the ghetto clear corners.  I
finaly got off my ass to make a crap web page to put the pics on, here it is.

http://www.geocities.com/badahab/

-sean

From bmoses@purdue.edu  Thu Jan 24 18:54:03 2002
From: bmoses@purdue.edu (Benjamin Moses)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:54:03 -0600
Subject: What causes CV joints to go bad?
In-Reply-To: <d6.111e92af.2980e983@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000601c1a50a$3dadf070$0200a8c0@bl>

I have the same setup and I have not had a problem with the inner CV
joints, or any CV joints for that matter.  I've had the hyperco/AGX
setup for almost a year and from my rather novice point of view they've
been great.  I did have to replace an outer CV boot because Ben Davis
messed it up while helping me work on my car (but I ain't mad at him!!)
But that was not due to the suspension setup.  I do have the JWT motor
mounts.  It would make sense to me that failing motor mounts could
contribute to wear on the CV's.

My $.02
Ben

<<I have had my CV joints replaced twice within a 6 month period.  It
was done
by a pretty reputable shop. They gave me lifetime warranty on both.  So
my
question is what is the cause of my inner cv joint going bad? The guy
said it
was bad motor mounts, then he preceded to rock my car by popping the
clutch
about 60 times. Then he said I lowered it wrong.  I have the hypercoil
springs and KYB AGX.  Could it be my motor mounts are bad. If so how do
can>>

From bryant.kelly@weyerhaeuser.com  Thu Jan 24 19:13:01 2002
From: bryant.kelly@weyerhaeuser.com (Kelly, Bryant (EDS))
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:13:01 -0600
Subject: OT: Skyline GT-R and Sylvia are going away....
Message-ID: <0F0FBCC918EDD211958C0008C7D38FF60994086F@emswtc8.weyer.com>

I haven't heard of this on the list yet, but I thought I'd bring it up.
Looks like by August of this year, the Skyline GT-R and Sylvia will be no
more...
I don't know what this does for plans of the GT-R for the US soil, and this
may only apply to the R34 version of the GT-R.
But here's the link to the news.  It's in Japanese, but my wife explained it
for me...
http://iij.asahi.com/business/update/0124/027.html

From brian@unxplodedbomb.com  Thu Jan 24 19:30:00 2002
From: brian@unxplodedbomb.com (UXB)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:30:00 -0600
Subject: Tial 35mm wastegate, price and where
In-Reply-To: <001c01c1a4e5$81e63ba0$cd36a93f@hppav>
Message-ID: <B875C6E2.B0E%brian@unxplodedbomb.com>

Try http://www.ftfmotorsports.com

I know they have them,  but I'm not sure what
the going price is on the 35mm ones.

Brian

From ezcheese15@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 19:48:32 2002
From: ezcheese15@yahoo.com (Torry Skurski)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:48:32 -0600
Subject: Spec V Shift knob
Message-ID: <001101c1a50f$ee8e9a20$1e282141@ezcheese15>

Does anybody know how the Spec V shift knob is attatched to the shifter?
Mine has come loose, and I can move it left to right very easily.  It does
not unscrew, from what I can tell, like the other SE-R's.  There is also not
set screw or anything that I can see.

And to think...I couldn't figure out why my stock shift knob was glued on on
my B14...now I wish they *did* do that on the B15 LOL.

According to the FSM, it *is* glued on and looks like it is attatched just
like all other SE-R's (they don't say how to take it off, just a diagram).
But mine doesn't want to unthread easily....just moves back and forth.

If anybody knows, let me know.  I don't want to take it off, I just want it
to stop moving around.

Torry

From christian.beaudry@TetraTec.qc.ca  Thu Jan 24 19:53:59 2002
From: christian.beaudry@TetraTec.qc.ca (Christian Beaudry)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:53:59 -0600
Subject: Spec V Shift knob
Message-ID: <1E96B377F180D4119BA100508BADCA7E2110D2@TETRASVR>

From: Torry Skurski [mailto:ezcheese15@yahoo.com]

>>If anybody knows, let me know.  I don't want to take it off, I just want
it to stop moving around.

I would go straight to the dealer and have them fix it.
Advantages of a new car.

Chris

From ianshannon97@msn.com  Thu Jan 24 20:46:23 2002
From: ianshannon97@msn.com (ianshannon97)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:46:23 -0600
Subject: Sr20VE
References: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA85@HORIZON>
Message-ID: <000601c1a518$5a8d6aa0$575fc143@computer>

Dude, this came from Andreas Miko, don't jump down my back. BTW, he built the
first 9 second 200SX in the country so I guess it is credible information.
91 NX2000 with work.
97 Maxima SE, smooth and powerful automatic
http://www.angelfire.com/ny/ianjiggyroom/IansNX2000page.html

From wrightj@apple.com  Thu Jan 24 20:49:11 2002
From: wrightj@apple.com (Jim Wright)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:49:11 -0600
Subject: Countdown to 200K
In-Reply-To: <4F77088E1C18204A908F0E11EAA743EB039DA691@GOOSE>
Message-ID: <B875CF5D.AC06%wrightj@apple.com>

Just thought I'd share this, my '91 will be turning 200K in aproximately 3
weeks.  Mileage now reads at 199,243.

It's been a fun ride, and the journey isn't over yet.  ;)

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Thu Jan 24 20:52:22 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:52:22 -0600
Subject: Sr20VE
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BAA2@HORIZON>

> Dude, this came from Andreas Miko, don't jump down my back.

I wasn't. Wild claims need proof no matter who or where they are from.

> BTW, he built the first 9 second 200SX in the country so I
> guess it is credible information.

Did that car use a SR20VE? If not, that doesn't mean much.

-Jay

From jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com  Thu Jan 24 20:58:13 2002
From: jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com (Jason Garrett Young)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:58:13 -0600
Subject: Sr20VE
References: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BAA2@HORIZON>
Message-ID: <014801c1a519$c7276de0$cd36a93f@hppav>

> I wasn't. Wild claims need proof no matter who or where they are from.

> > BTW, he built the first 9 second 200SX in the country so I
> > guess it is credible information.

ok, then by that logic, he wasn't able to keep the radiator hose on the car,
so does that discredit him?

jay's right

now, Ian, quit calling me and hanging up, I know it's you

From ezcheese15@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 21:05:50 2002
From: ezcheese15@yahoo.com (Torry Skurski)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:05:50 -0600
Subject: Spec V Shift knob
In-Reply-To: <1E96B377F180D4119BA100508BADCA7E2110D2@TETRASVR>
Message-ID: <001901c1a51a$ba0d96b0$1e282141@ezcheese15>

RE: Spec V Shift knobOk...I'm a monkey who was too busy trying to figure how
to eat the banana without thinking about it first.  Turns out, if you remove
the peel, it tastes better.

The knob did unscrew...it was just tight.  Anyways, I put it back on, and
turned it one revolution tighter.  Now it doesn't move.

I didn't take it to the dealer, because I would have sat there for 5 hours,
while a monkey tossing bigger bananas than I was tossing, would have spent
an hour looking at the FSM, only to find out he could tighten the knob by
turning it once more.

I only go the dealer when the cars under warrenty if I *know* I'm needing
parts.  If it's just gonna be labor, I'll still do it myself.

From GCrowe@itd.state.id.us  Thu Jan 24 22:17:58 2002
From: GCrowe@itd.state.id.us (Greyson Crowe)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 16:17:58 -0600
Subject: Any ideas on what to do with a G20 5spd Tranny?
Message-ID: <05297E1A79C6D011AA0700A0C906AC6F04BD179B@HQISSV09>

I want to do my sr20de swap right the first time.  I want the SE-R/NX2K LSD
Tranny.  I need somthing good with no 5th gear popout.  WHat do I do with my
almost new G20 Tranny?  Can I possibly add a LSD and make this tranny work?
And how do I tell if my axels are the right ones or G20 axels?
Thanx again,
Greyson Crowe
94 XE

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Thu Jan 24 22:23:46 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 16:23:46 -0600
Subject: CES report?
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BAB5@HORIZON>

Wasn't the CES show this week or last? How soon can we expect the report? :)

Who does that? I forgot exactly who, but I look forward to it every year.

-Jay

From nx2ked@hotmail.com  Thu Jan 24 22:35:43 2002
From: nx2ked@hotmail.com (NX 2000)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 16:35:43 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F37bqJGNzscE8NpqhNP000000bb@hotmail.com>

Does this include the Spec V or is it only for the 2 L SE's.

Edwen

>From: Jon Pennington <cowboydren@yahoo.com>

>   http://www.whack.org/~dren/b15-data/B15_Brake_Crossreference.html

From nx2ked@hotmail.com  Thu Jan 24 23:17:34 2002
From: nx2ked@hotmail.com (NX 2000)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:17:34 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F126DXr2yKNJJz4Oafz00002151@hotmail.com>

>From: "Pat Griffith" <griffser@hotmail.com>

>How does removing material by drilling holes give brake rotors "extra
>surface area"??  Talk about contradictions ...

Let's go a little further on this.  By drilling a hole in the rotor you are
removing the radius times pi times 2 in surface area.  I believe that's the
formula for finding the area in a circle.  Feel free to correct me if I am
wrong about the correct formula here.
By drilling a hole, you have the circumfrance (sp) of the circle times the
width of the rotor.  Depending on the width of the rotor and the diameter of
the hole, the surface area lost by the drilling can be greater or less than
what is gained by drilling...

>Also, there is a difference between slotting and drilling.

I never said drilling and slotting are the same.  By slotting, you are
taking a bit more material off the flat part of the rotor and increasing
surface area.  You cannot deny that.

>>All this can be found in SE-R.net under brakes. I believe it was written
>>by Mike K.

>Alright, Mike says: "I myself think that drilled stock rotors or sport
>rotors may be somewhat questionable because since small stock brakes are
>run close to their thermal limit with high performance pads, the drilling
>can contribute to cracking  ... Drilled real racing brakes with sufficient
>thermal capacity are functional and useful ... Overall, I feel that drilled
>sport rotors are mostly a cosmetic trick and have never tested drilled,
>slotted and solid back to back."

Since you kindly added that in, my original reply was to Kevin who said
cross dilled rotors have no effect on braking unless you are talking about
above 90 mph speeds.  My reply was you are contradicting yourself by saying
no effect and yes effect above 90 mph.  And the link to SE-R.net allows
people to read the somewhat truths behind cross drilled and slotted rotors,
unless you are saying Mike is blowing bananas...

>Is that the part in question?  I have not tested this, but in theory, a
>cracked brake rotor will not help a car slow down better.

Now where did this come from?  You should have bought "Drilled real
>racing brakes with sufficient thermal capacity are functional and useful"

>In most SCCA-level (i.e., amateur) autocross and road-racing classes,
>cross-drilled rotors are not allowed, and nobody cares.  They whine about
>rules on seats, ECU's, restrictions on air dams, tires, etc., but none of
>them whine about not being able to use cross-drilled rotors.  Gee, maybe
>because they have seen/heard real-world experiences (not "in theory") with
>cross-drilled rotors and determined cross-drilled rotors aren't any better
>than non-drilled rotors.

Not where I am.  Cross drilled rotors put you into SP.  I never said cross
drilled rotors were better than stock.  I just said in theory they are
better and offered a place to search for more material to make their own
judgement.  BTW, Porsche use cross drilled rotors stock since this topic
came up before.

>It's a free country and you can go ahead and buy cross-drilled rotors for
>your car, but don't try and justify them as performance upgrades unless the
>rotors you're replacing are worn paper-thin.

What's with this bashing?  I NEVER tried to justify cross drilled rotors as
being a performance upgrade.  I just stated a theory and told to look up
se-r.net like everyone else should have done before posting questions on
this list.  Personally, I'd go for slotted rotors before cross drilled, but
that just my opinion.

Edwen

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Thu Jan 24 23:29:33 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:29:33 -0600
Subject: 91 SE-R now with DET + TMIC data
Message-ID: <F97QJA0X3EsMK14tATv0000c43e@hotmail.com>

Antonio Garcia <antoniog@yahoo.com> wrote:

>when you get on boost, I've seen the temps get as high as 122 F!!!

HAHAHAHA!!  The interheater is a POS!!!

At 6 psi of boost, you are operating at about a 1.5:1 compressor pressure
ratio.  At a 65% compressor efficiency (about right for a choked T-25), that
means that on a 40 degree night, your compressor outlet temperature should
be about 133 degrees F.  So, your interheater is cooling your charge air
down a whole 10 degrees!  Wow!  That's like a 12% heat exchanger
effectiveness!

Actually, 122 degree F intake manifold temp is nothing to worry about.
Running more boost on a hot day, your intake manifold temps will be well
over that even with a good intercooler.  You're loosing power, but you're
not in that 'oh my god the motor is going to blow up' range.  I wouldn't get
really scared unless the intake manifold temp got over about 160 degrees.
Then you'd have a problem.

If it were 85 degrees outside, your intake manifold temperature would be up
in the 175 degree F range!  So, don't worry about it much for now, but make
sure you get don't have the interheater when the summer comes!

Rob

From yesous2@earthlink.net  Thu Jan 24 23:38:46 2002
From: yesous2@earthlink.net (Viola Armstrong)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:38:46 -0600
Subject: Cam experts, Please read!!
Message-ID: <4120021424234056210@earthlink.net>

Hey peps I've got a question. I have a S3 JWT programmed ecu. Will it
work with the S4 or would I need the ecu sent back and redone? Thanks in
advance  Joelslow96 Enjoyn the ride ;-)            --- Joel & Viola
Armstrong     Walk by Faith not by Sight--- yesous2@earthlink.net---
EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.

From antoniog@yahoo.com  Thu Jan 24 23:45:19 2002
From: antoniog@yahoo.com (Antonio Garcia)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:45:19 -0600
Subject: 91 SE-R now with DET + TMIC data
In-Reply-To: <F97QJA0X3EsMK14tATv0000c43e@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20020124234518.9453.qmail@web10503.mail.yahoo.com>

--- Rob Cadle <robcadle@hotmail.com> wrote:

> HAHAHAHA!!  The interheater is a POS!!!

Yeah, I knew it was, but I've heard hood scoops can work wonders. Larry
Low ran the top mount with a hood scoop at saw intake temps at 60 F
while cruising on the freeway. Not bad at all!

> So, your interheater is cooling your charge air
> down a whole 10 degrees!  Wow!  That's like a 12% heat exchanger
> effectiveness!

So, at least I proved it's not an interHEATER, it does do something.
Better than nothing. ;-)

> I wouldn't get really scared unless the intake manifold temp got over
> about 160 degrees. Then you'd have a problem.

Good info to know, but I don't even think that "cheapish" thermometer
even has a range up to 160 F. Time to upgrade and use a real
thermocouple. Response time would be a lot better too.

> make sure you get don't have the interheater when the summer comes!

Yup, the FMIC kit is on the way. Thanks for the info!

Antonio
91 SE-R w/ turbo

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Fri Jan 25 00:01:09 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:01:09 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <F37bqJGNzscE8NpqhNP000000bb@hotmail.com>
References: <F37bqJGNzscE8NpqhNP000000bb@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <1011917066.32370.32.camel@pugelist>

On Thu, 2002-01-24 at 16:35, NX 2000 wrote:

> Does this include the Spec V or is it only for the 2 L SE's.

At this point, I cannot say.  My research to now is very shallow, but I
saw no mention of the Spec-V brakes being different.  If the Spec-V
brakes are *not* different, then y'all have ready-to-go brake upgrades
already.:)  Rejoice!

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 00:30:49 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:30:49 -0600
Subject: Cam experts, Please read!!
Message-ID: <F161cYXF9x0TbbBiq2w00000c0f@hotmail.com>

s3/s4 ECU is the same.

Rob

From khart@usit.net  Fri Jan 25 01:03:01 2002
From: khart@usit.net (Kevin J. Hart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:03:01 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
References: <F126DXr2yKNJJz4Oafz00002151@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <003701c1a53c$040e9590$0200a8c0@bowlcut>

> the hole, the surface area lost by the drilling can be greater or less
than
> what is gained by drilling...

So you drill a hole say 1/4 wide....and the rotor is 1/2" thick....You are
going to pick up very very marginal surface area.  Ok then you multiply that
by the number of holes.  Ok you pick up a little extra surface area.  Which
on a daily driver means jack squat.  Why?  Because rarely do you heat up the
rotor to a point where it needs any extra cooling.  When was the last time
you faded on the street?  I cant think I ever have, well some of these
idiots around doing 90 on surface streets might but then again they end up
in a wall most the time and thats not on discussion.

> taking a bit more material off the flat part of the rotor and increasing
> surface area.  You cannot deny that.

the benifits from sloting have absolutely nothing to do with cooling power.
what the slot does is help clean off the surface of the pad of any glazeing
it may have created.  And help disapate gasses(which most pads made these
days do not put alot out) and water when they get wet.

> Since you kindly added that in, my original reply was to Kevin who said
> cross dilled rotors have no effect on braking unless you are talking about
> above 90 mph speeds.  My reply was you are contradicting yourself by
saying
> no effect and yes effect above 90 mph.  And the link to SE-R.net allows
> people to read the somewhat truths behind cross drilled and slotted
rotors,
> unless you are saying Mike is blowing bananas...

No Mike isnt blowing bananas.  And if he was, he would admit it.  But
re-read what he said..."Overall, I feel that drilled sport rotors are mostly
a cosmetic trick" show me any rotor on the market that isnt in this catagory
then ill show you the price tag of probaly hundreds per rotor.  I do not
contradict myself by saying what I said, misunderstood and poorly worded
yes.  What Im saying is on a street car, or even a lapping car, there is no
benifit to be picked up by crossdrilled rotors.  At high speeds that lemans
type cars see they use it for cooling along with proper infrastructure like
ducting.  Also these cars do not expect their brakes to last more than 24
hours at the longest, and at that they do make changes at times.

> Not where I am.  Cross drilled rotors put you into SP.  I never said cross
> drilled rotors were better than stock.  I just said in theory they are
> better and offered a place to search for more material to make their own
> judgement.  BTW, Porsche use cross drilled rotors stock since this topic
> came up before.

The random cross drilled rotor(powerslot comes to mind for a distrubuter)
are not better and not "proper" rotors.  They are for show and end up
cracking anyway.  Oh god here comes the Porsche arguement.  Id like to see
the life expetancy of one of their rotors.  One reason they are on there is
people can afford such things.  They are not the standard rotor, one thing
the holes are cast into the rotor not drilled IIRC.  Doesnt mean they arent
prone to cracking.  Also Id like to see some data why they are on there.
Test a set of non holed to holed and see what happens.  On a street
car(which is what the majority of Porsche's end up as) it wont make a
difference.  Then on track it may make a hair...but if you are fadeing the
brakes, more than likely you will do it no matter what extra parts you throw
at it.

> What's with this bashing?  I NEVER tried to justify cross drilled rotors
as
> being a performance upgrade.  I just stated a theory and told to look up
> se-r.net like everyone else should have done before posting questions on
> this list.  Personally, I'd go for slotted rotors before cross drilled,
but
> that just my opinion.

Well most of the people see them on race cars and automaticly think they
will help them on their car even buying cheap ones.  It doesnt.  Hell i
remember GRM doing a study on it and even pulled out the math on it.  But
its almost impossible to find unbiased facts on anything these days.  I like
my smooth rotors they are friendlier on pads and can easily be surfaced, and
not going to crack as quickly or easily as cross drilled.  Slotted atleast
has some benifit not just conjector of it they work

I know this has been offered on the board before, if someone wants to back
it up then good.  We want to do some back to back testing of rotors in NC
and willing to make it totaly unbiased and as scientific as possible.  If
someone would donate a set of cross drilled and pads we would spec, which
they would get back in brand new shape, we would do some back to back
testing on the air field that Matt has access to.  See if they stop any
better or if we can get them to resist fade any better.  Totaly scientific
as possible and unbiased.  hell someoen show me the data and ill shut up.

Kevin
93 classic (Automatic, Stuff)
about tired of fighting

From flyryd@home.com  Fri Jan 25 01:08:21 2002
From: flyryd@home.com (flyryd)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:08:21 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
References: <F126DXr2yKNJJz4Oafz00002151@hotmail.com>
 <003701c1a53c$040e9590$0200a8c0@bowlcut>
Message-ID: <027601c1a53d$35acf500$b4600344@ph.cox.net>

Can we let this go............?

Brad B. Phx  AZ
'96 200sx SE-R(w/ this 'n' that)
'01 Altima GXE LE

From geo3@earthlink.net  Fri Jan 25 01:12:02 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:12:02 -0600
Subject: What causes CV joints to go bad?
In-Reply-To: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BA95@HORIZON>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020124191555.00cfa700@mail.earthlink.net>

CV joints go bad from hanging out with the wrong crowd and probably not
enough nurturing.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From khart@usit.net  Fri Jan 25 01:25:42 2002
From: khart@usit.net (Kevin J. Hart)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:25:42 -0600
Subject: What causes CV joints to go bad?
References: <4.3.2.7.0.20020124191555.00cfa700@mail.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001301c1a53f$0540a590$0200a8c0@bowlcut>

So it was a bad idea to let mine go out to that bar when ever they wanted?
Ah crap I knew it would end up biting me in the ass one day.  I always
though I loved them enough, maybe too much so and they felt strangled.  Oh
well they have already went south, as with grandparents time to throw them
in a home and get a new set...

Kevin
93 classic (Automatic, Stuff)
youngin

> CV joints go bad from hanging out with the wrong crowd and probably not
> enough nurturing.

From LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com  Fri Jan 25 01:54:44 2002
From: LDMartin" <LDMartin@email.msn.com (LDMartin)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:54:44 -0600
Subject: What causes CV joints to go bad?
References: <4.3.2.7.0.20020124191555.00cfa700@mail.earthlink.net>
 <001301c1a53f$0540a590$0200a8c0@bowlcut>
Message-ID: <001901c1a543$19154220$41a9c843@LarryMartin>

> So it was a bad idea to let mine go out to that bar when ever they wanted?
> Ah crap I knew it would end up biting me in the ass one day.

Not the anti-roll bar!!!  You should have known.  That's a bad neighborhood.
Hanging with that crowd could put dampers on their development and
contribute to bad bearing.  Then it's just a matter of time till they become
adults of low caliper.  Before you know it they will bolt from home and grip
their own pads and we all know what can happen there.  They'll get some
chick in the rack, mate that tie rod between their legs with a bushing and
then the situation will be completely out of alignment.  I tell you it's not
easy to raise a young CV.

Larry Martin, wishing he had read the rest of the posts on this thread..or
maybe not.

From stevefoltz@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 03:28:18 2002
From: stevefoltz@hotmail.com (Steve Foltz)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:28:18 -0600
Subject: Stillen Adjustable rear swawbar install questions
Message-ID: <F47Ogl4rhYQYx3G5aYY000160ce@hotmail.com>

I just installed the Stillen adjustable swaybar.  It feels great but some
things just don't seem right.  The long part of the bar that runs parallel
to the beam is actually behind the beam.  The pictures in the install notes
seem to show it in front of the beam.  Very hard to tell.  Has anyone else
installed this bar.  I don't want to get to detailed if no one has used this
thing before.  Please contact me if you know about this product.

Steve
98 Sentra SE
Brand new Stillen adjustable rear bar.

From Qualudia101@aol.com  Fri Jan 25 03:42:05 2002
From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:42:05 -0600
Subject: se-r: pinging noise
Message-ID: <f2.15a67dc9.29822e07@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/24/2002 9:37:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ninetyninemiata@hotmail.com writes:

> when was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
> my miata and g20 both had some light pinging noises, but they all went away

> after i replaced the fuel filter.

Don't understand why, since it goes away  with the lights off.  Strange thing
 just as the engine speed passes through 3500 RPM and then again when the
revs drop back down through 3500 you hear that 'TING" sound. Anyhow I did
change the fuel filter not very long ago,but at this point I'm willing to try
anything........thanks.......I'll let you know the result when I do it.

Frank 93 SE-R

From 93SER@attbi.com  Fri Jan 25 06:10:21 2002
From: 93SER@attbi.com (Mike Jez)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 00:10:21 -0600
Subject: engine too a poo
Message-ID: <012e01c1a566$f92037d0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>

Well my brother bought a filter for my 93 SE-R and did a oil change...from the
Nissan dealer for my SE-R which he has been in possesion since i got my
Maxima. Today the oil filter blew off the engine on the highway and did some
nasty stuff to the motor along with it.  They sold him a 200SX filter instead
of the classic one..I he has returned the car to me today and I should finally
get rid of my Maxima and be back in my little SE-R screaming to 8K again :) I
just hope my ringer SR20 is still alive.
Mike Jez
93 SE-R oil all over the engine
01 Maxima....fast but SE-R kills it.

From nx2ked@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 10:30:04 2002
From: nx2ked@hotmail.com (NX 2000)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 04:30:04 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F31tyi67EKRuYDlrjbu00000818@hotmail.com>

Well, under low and moderate speeds, the loss of surface area should not
have too much of a negative effect on braking, one would assume.  At higher
speeds, the loss of surface area may have a negative effect on braking, but
at these same higher speeds, one must worry about green fade.  Of course I
am no brake expert so take it as you may.  Back to enjoying the ride.

Edwen

>From: "Pat Griffith" <griffser@hotmail.com>

>So you gain surface are that is cooled but you lose surface
>area that is making contact with the brake pad.  Air is
>cheap --

From nx2ked@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 11:39:37 2002
From: nx2ked@hotmail.com (NX 2000)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 05:39:37 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F9654wG8nlsjH1dsDb700011116@hotmail.com>

>From: "Kevin J. Hart" <khart@usit.net>

>going to pick up very very marginal surface area.  Ok then you multiply
>that
>by the number of holes.  Ok you pick up a little extra surface area.  Which
>on a daily driver means jack squat

I think your numbers could be a little better.  But with your numbers, a 1/4
inch hole through 1/2 inch disc.  Each 1/4 inch hole you will lose 0.10
inches squared of surface area.
A 1/4 inch circle has a circumfrance of 1.099 inches and with the 1/2 inch
width, total area of the drilled area is 0.5495 inches square.  So, in the
one circle drilled you gained approximately 0.4495 inches squared of surface
area, and multiply that by the number of holes drilled into the rotors.
Now, on a daily driver, the extra surface area more than likely means very
little.

> > taking a bit more material off the flat part of the rotor and increasing
> > surface area.  You cannot deny that.

>the benifits from sloting have absolutely nothing to do with cooling power.

Now where is the rest of my post?  I said slotting will add more to surface
area, you did not deny that.  Like a heat sink, with increased surface area,
it can disipate more heat, in theory.  I never said that was a benefit of
slotted rotors.  But you also cannot deny that it is possible, if the brakes
are driven that hard.

>what the slot does is help clean off the surface of the pad of any glazeing
>it may have created.  And help disapate gasses(which most pads made these
>days do not put alot out) and water when they get wet.

But you did not state any of this in your original reply about brakes.
Again, if the person went onto SE-R.net and did his reading, he would have
known that, but not from your original reply.

> > Since you kindly added that in, my original reply was to Kevin who said
> > cross dilled rotors have no effect on braking unless you are talking
>about
> > above 90 mph speeds.  My reply was you are contradicting yourself by
>saying
> > no effect and yes effect above 90 mph.  And the link to SE-R.net allows
> > people to read the somewhat truths behind cross drilled and slotted
>rotors,
> > unless you are saying Mike is blowing bananas...

>No Mike isnt blowing bananas.  And if he was, he would admit it.

But that was an obvious one.

But
>re-read what he said..."Overall, I feel that drilled sport rotors are
>mostly
>a cosmetic trick" show me any rotor on the market that isnt in this
>catagory
>then ill show you the price tag of probaly hundreds per rotor.  I do not
>contradict myself by saying what I said, misunderstood and poorly worded
>yes.

Not to be too anal but poorly worded and contradicting yourself in this case
is the same because you said drilled rotors don't help brake, then the next
line you said it will help if you are going 90+ mph.

  What Im saying is on a street car, or even a lapping car, there is no
>benifit to be picked up by crossdrilled rotors

Now Kev, would this be from personal experience or heresay?  I have no
personal experience with cross drilled rotors or slotted rotors on a track
or even the street.  All I offer is what I've read and theory.  Whether or
not it is truth is a whole other story.  All I am doing is offering more
reading to those that ask these questions and have them make their own
choices.

> > judgement.  BTW, Porsche use cross drilled rotors stock

>The random cross drilled rotor(powerslot comes to mind for a distrubuter)
>are not better and not "proper" rotors.  They are for show and end up
>cracking anyway.

Now, if you said this originally or it showed up on Mike K.'s write up then
whoever was asking about brakes would have more info when making their
choices.

  Oh god here comes the Porsche arguement.  Id like to see
>the life expetancy of one of their rotors.  One reason they are on there is
>people can afford such things.

Now that is utter BS.  I only mentioned the Porsche rotor because Pat so
nicely mentioned that SCCA level (amature) and autocross do not allow cross
drilled rotors and that those racers bitch about seats and ecu and airdamns
but not cross drilled rotors.  He said perhaps those racers know of or heard
about the real benefits of cross drilled rotors.  I only offered a counter
argument to that statement.  I in no circumstance said Porsche uses cross
drilled rotors because they are better than flat rotors.
And the "they can afford it because they own a Porsche" is utter BS and you
know it.  I'd expect that from a ricer and not from a veteran of this list.

They are not the standard rotor, one thing
>the holes are cast into the rotor not drilled IIRC.  Doesnt mean they arent
>prone to cracking.  Also Id like to see some data why they are on there.

Whether they are drilled or casted in, there are lots and lots of little
holes in their rotors.

>Test a set of non holed to holed and see what happens.  On a street
>car(which is what the majority of Porsche's end up as) it wont make a
>difference.  Then on track it may make a hair...but if you are fadeing the
>brakes, more than likely you will do it no matter what extra parts you
>throw
>at it.

Okie.  Yeah...   We have a winner here.  You are generalizing here.  Let me
ask you this, how do YOU know that if you drive your car hard enough for the
brakes to fade that "more than likely you will do it no matter what extra
parts you throw at it"?

>Well most of the people see them on race cars and automaticly think they
>will help them on their car even buying cheap ones.  It doesnt.  Hell i
>remember GRM doing a study on it and even pulled out the math on it.  But
>its almost impossible to find unbiased facts on anything these days.

Funny you would mention that.  =)

  I like
>my smooth rotors they are friendlier on pads and can easily be surfaced,
>and
>not going to crack as quickly or easily as cross drilled.  Slotted atleast
>has some benifit not just conjector of it they work

Is this factual, or unbiased heresay?

we would do some back to back
>testing on the air field that Matt has access to.  See if they stop any
>better or if we can get them to resist fade any better.  Totaly scientific
>as possible and unbiased.  hell someoen show me the data and ill shut up.

I think this is a very good idea.  Only things to change is rotors.  Keep
the tires, pads, and speed constant.
Well, maybe try a range of different speeds.

My original post was meant to point out that there is reading material about
brake rotors for the person who originally asked.  Like I said, read Mike
K.'s writeup and then make your own descision about cross drilled, slotted
or oem type rotors.  That's it from me on this topic.  Enjoy the ride.  =)

From jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com  Fri Jan 25 13:35:19 2002
From: jasongyoung@jacomanufacturing.com (Jason Garrett Young)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 07:35:19 -0600
Subject: engine too a poo
References: <012e01c1a566$f92037d0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>
Message-ID: <021501c1a5a4$ffee2020$cd36a93f@hppav>

Sounds like someone didn't actually put the filter on the car.  I don't
think your brother likes you.

 Today the oil filter blew off the engine on the highway and did some
> nasty stuff to the motor along with it.  They sold him a 200SX filter
instead

From christopher.scarpulla@ssmb.com  Fri Jan 25 13:40:43 2002
From: christopher.scarpulla@ssmb.com (Scarpulla, Christopher [IT])
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 07:40:43 -0600
Subject: engine too a poo
Message-ID: <DF8D233E4341D411A7AD0008C7E634820B89592A@exchny07.ny.ssmb.c
 om>

I tried to count all the motors that have blown up around Jez, but ran out
of fingers :)
And people thought Darth Roffe had magical powers!

Chris (:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Garrett Young
Sounds like someone didn't actually put the filter on the car.  I don't
think your brother likes you.

From geo3@earthlink.net  Fri Jan 25 13:52:23 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 07:52:23 -0600
Subject: engine too a poo
In-Reply-To: <DF8D233E4341D411A7AD0008C7E634820B89592A@exchny07.ny.ssmb.
 c om>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020125075612.00daeb40@mail.earthlink.net>

Scarpulla, Christopher [IT] wrote:

>I tried to count all the motors that have blown up around Jez, but ran out
>of fingers :)

Watch your toes closely. :-)

>And people thought Darth Roffe had magical powers!

Well, I don't have to touch them, and more importantly I can touch them
*without* them blowing up. :-)

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From nx2kracer@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 13:54:27 2002
From: nx2kracer@hotmail.com (Lee Koloszyc)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 07:54:27 -0600
Subject: engine too a poo
References: <DF8D233E4341D411A7AD0008C7E634820B89592A@exchny07.ny.ssmb.c
 om>
Message-ID: <OE70VVMKP4GHHU9ObBj000139b4@hotmail.com>

You figured they would learn how to check part numbers. Especially after he
cracked the block on the one because he had the "wrong bearings".   Or maybe
he should try a different Nissan Dealer.

If you add up the ones he broke before they were put together you might run
out of toes:)

Lee

> I tried to count all the motors that have blown up around Jez, but ran out
> of fingers :)

From jstewart@eCompanyStore.com  Fri Jan 25 14:36:53 2002
From: jstewart@eCompanyStore.com (Joe Stewart)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 08:36:53 -0600
Subject: Any ideas on what to do with a G20 5spd Tranny?
Message-ID: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BABA@HORIZON>

>I want the SE-R/NX2K LSD Tranny.  I need somthing good with no 5th gear
popout.

Are you sure that the G20 tranny you have is not an LSD one? It could be
either. Find out for sure before you waste any more time.

If you want a tranny that is 5th gear popout resistant, get a 95+
transmission. There are some very minor differences, but the tranny will
work just fine in your car. As far as the G20 trans goes, keep it. You can
use the G20 gearset in an LSD tranny so if you ever get 5th gear popout,
blow out 3rd gear, whatever, it's about a 1 hour job to swap the gearsets on
the car for me.

-Jay

From griffser@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 14:48:20 2002
From: griffser@hotmail.com (Pat Griffith)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 08:48:20 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
Message-ID: <F2438SlIZaoRdITblCB0000c8a6@hotmail.com>

>Absolutely.  Can we drop the bickering?  This has been
>hashed and rehashed quite enough already.

Yeah, for the eight years I have been on this mailing list!
See the SE-R FAQ. :)

> >In most SCCA-level (i.e., amateur) autocross and >road-racing classes,
>cross-drilled rotors are not allowed,
> >and nobody cares.

>Not where I am.  Cross drilled rotors put you into SP.

In SCCA Street Prepared classes, cross-drilled rotors are not allowed.
Local regions can run their own "interpretation" of the rules, so that is
probably why it's legal where you are.

Cross-drilled rotors are allowed in Street Touring classes, but so are big
wings and body kits.

Pat
'00 Lightning
'91 SE-R, SCCA/NASA racecar
http://www.blackshirtracing.com

From sr20depower@yahoo.com  Fri Jan 25 15:13:33 2002
From: sr20depower@yahoo.com (Lee Combs)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:13:33 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <003701c1a53c$040e9590$0200a8c0@bowlcut>
Message-ID: <20020125151332.96657.qmail@web12702.mail.yahoo.com>

--- "Kevin J. Hart" <khart@usit.net> wrote:
> No Mike isnt blowing bananas.

Bananas are good with peanut butter.

can we lighten up on the brakes? it IS friday.

From sylvain_laplante@yahoo.ca  Fri Jan 25 15:29:10 2002
From: sylvain_laplante@yahoo.ca (Sylvain Laplante)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:29:10 -0600
Subject: b15 brakes same as....?
In-Reply-To: <20020125151332.96657.qmail@web12702.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20020125152908.85397.qmail@web12803.mail.yahoo.com>

You are right, this is a pretty hot topic ( interesting though )... And after
all iit make sense since what brakes basically are is a way to convert friction
to heat :-)

But then, no one put in all these formulas the benefits of reducing unsprung
weight... But since it`s Friday ......

Sylvain Laplante
95 se-r and waiting for my new 2002 se-r

--- Lee Combs <sr20depower@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --- "Kevin J. Hart" <khart@usit.net> wrote:
> > No Mike isnt blowing bananas.

> Bananas are good with peanut butter.

> can we lighten up on the brakes? it IS friday.
> +----------------------------------------------------------------------+
> The mailing list home page is http://www.se-r-list.org/
> To modify your subscription, go to http://lists.deskmedia.com/se-r/
> Visit, and contribute to, the FAQ: http://www.se-r-list.org/FAQ/

______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca

From christian.beaudry@TetraTec.qc.ca  Fri Jan 25 15:29:59 2002
From: christian.beaudry@TetraTec.qc.ca (Christian Beaudry)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:29:59 -0600
Subject: SR16VE Tranny
Message-ID: <1E96B377F180D4119BA100508BADCA7E2110D6@TETRASVR>

Would the tranny from an NX1600 be good
for a SR16VE engine swap ?

Would it be plug and play, and would it
be strong enough to withstand the power ?

And just to make it more interesting,
how about an SR16VE N1 Spec ?

Someone from out nissan club, npclub.com,
is thinking about this swap and he asked me
this question.

TIA

Chris Beaudry

From hpro@b-link.gr  Fri Jan 25 15:56:11 2002
From: hpro@b-link.gr (Chris Pronios)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:56:11 -0600
Subject: SR16VE Tranny
References: <1E96B377F180D4119BA100508BADCA7E2110D6@TETRASVR>
Message-ID: <000f01c1a5b8$356e4870$3300a8c0@athena>

Out of luck Christian!

Subject: SR16VE Tranny

No.

If it fit the remaining would be yes.

No.

He is out of luck.

Chris

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Fri Jan 25 17:34:25 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 11:34:25 -0600
Subject: Any ideas on what to do with a G20 5spd Tranny?
In-Reply-To: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BABA@HORIZON>
References: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BABA@HORIZON>
Message-ID: <1011980242.32370.87.camel@pugelist>

On Fri, 2002-01-25 at 08:36, Joe Stewart wrote:

> Are you sure that the G20 tranny you have is not an LSD one? It could be
> either. Find out for sure before you waste any more time.

Does the posi/non-posi hot rodder trick work on Nissan FWD LSD
trannies?  Jack up the car, put it in neutral, and spin one tire with
your hands.  If the other tire spin the same direction, it's a posi.  If
it spins the opposite direction, it's an open diff.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From subculture@speedracer.com  Fri Jan 25 19:18:44 2002
From: subculture@speedracer.com (Thomas Fox)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:18:44 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <200201251918.g0PJIgM31431@mail16.bigmailbox.com>

[demime could not interpret encoding binary - treating as plain text]
> "Rob Cadle" <robcadle@hotmail.com> Wrote:
<snip>
>I don't see any way you could pass the
California smog test with 11:1
>compression ratio and no EGR.

Do you think it would be possible to retro fit the
EGR system from a DE onto the VE?

Thomas Fox
'93 NX2000
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/napsz/start.html

Speed Racer's Official Virtual Pit Stop.
http://www.speedracerdsl.com/speedracer/

From spdracer@mail.utexas.edu  Fri Jan 25 20:45:42 2002
From: spdracer@mail.utexas.edu (spdracer@mail.utexas.edu)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:45:42 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <200201251918.g0PJIgM31431@mail16.bigmailbox.com>
References: <200201251918.g0PJIgM31431@mail16.bigmailbox.com>
Message-ID: <1011991435.3c51c38bec5ad@webmailapp2.cc.utexas.edu>

> Do you think it would be possible to retro fit the
> EGR system from a DE onto the VE?

I imagine you'd have to modify the intake and exhaust manifolds to make it work.
 Make a fitting on the exhaust manifold to hook up the EGR tube, and make a
flange on the intake manifold so you can bolt up the EGR valve thingy.

Khiem

From robcadle@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 21:23:21 2002
From: robcadle@hotmail.com (Rob Cadle)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 15:23:21 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
Message-ID: <F66FU73iVmaPWV3EIDN0000ca54@hotmail.com>

"Thomas Fox" <subculture@speedracer.com> wrote:

>Do you think it would be possible to retro fit the
>EGR system from a DE onto the VE?

Sure, you can make anything work.  It would require some cutting and welding
and fabrication.  A lot of people could probably do this, but I have no
useful skills, so I couldn't.

Rob

From Scott_Higashi@el.nec.com  Fri Jan 25 21:24:48 2002
From: Scott_Higashi@el.nec.com (Scott_Higashi@el.nec.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 15:24:48 -0600
Subject: Ballistic Oil Filter
Message-ID: <OF1C4417C1.B9311804-ON88256B4C.00752955@rv.el.nec.com>

I have an additional anecdote of blowing oil filters...

I was at the KAS house a couple of years back and I was "gifted" an SR20DE
Nissan oil filter...  Well, you know what they say about gift horses?  I
was on my
third run (out of five) at an autocross as the daylight was waning when I
went into
a nasty spin.   WTF!!!  "That was strange..."  Straighten everything up and
go
again, only to spin again... It was only then I noticed the sea of red
flags and
SMOKE coming out from my car...

Yes, be careful about putting B14 filters on the B13 SR20...

I shut down the event for the day and everyone in that run group got $10
off of their
next event because of me!  Later that year I spun a rod bearing at
Thunderhill due
damage I suspect was done while at 6000 RPM with no oil pressure...

YMMV...:^)

-Scott

From sr20de@epix.net  Fri Jan 25 21:30:40 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 15:30:40 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <F66FU73iVmaPWV3EIDN0000ca54@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C51CE73.86ADBE8E@epix.net>

Rob Cadle wrote:

> but I have no useful skills, so I couldn't.

It's about time you admitted that. :)

RK
--
Ray Kawski
1998 Sentra SE Turbo, 1991 NX 2000, 340K mile 1991 Sentra SE-R
Poconos, PA

From sr20de@epix.net  Fri Jan 25 21:33:05 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 15:33:05 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
References: <F66FU73iVmaPWV3EIDN0000ca54@hotmail.com>
 <3C51CE73.86ADBE8E@epix.net>
Message-ID: <3C51CF06.2CDDF8D1@epix.net>

"Raymond A. Kawski" wrote:

> It's about time you admitted that. :)

First that was a joke and secondly it was supposed to
be priavte.  Damn trigger finger.  Sorry to all.

RK
--
Ray Kawski
1998 Sentra SE Turbo, 1991 NX 2000, 340K mile 1991 Sentra SE-R
Poconos, PA

From stevefoltz@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 22:04:22 2002
From: stevefoltz@hotmail.com (Steve Foltz)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 16:04:22 -0600
Subject: Hubcentric rings for 98 Sentra
Message-ID: <F1633tYwlib4g3Sv0YK0001754a@hotmail.com>

I did search the archives and what little I found about hubcentric rings was
that our cars all took 59 mm.  Also that our lugs are 12X1.25  Is this
accurate.

Steve
98 Sentra Se

From wrightj@apple.com  Fri Jan 25 23:10:08 2002
From: wrightj@apple.com (Jim Wright)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:10:08 -0600
Subject: Ballistic Oil Filter
In-Reply-To: <OF1C4417C1.B9311804-ON88256B4C.00752955@rv.el.nec.com>
Message-ID: <B87741EB.AC95%wrightj@apple.com>

On 1/25/02 3:24 PM, "Scott_Higashi@el.nec.com" <Scott_Higashi@el.nec.com>
wrote:

> Yes, be careful about putting B14 filters on the B13 SR20...

Right, the threading on these two are extremely similar, but not exactly the
same.  One has metric threads, the other standard, and though you might be
able to get by with no problems, under extreme pressure, the wrong filter
will blow right off.

The archives have some good info on this, possibly also the FAQ.  I'd dug up
info on this a while back, so I know it's there.

From brent102@hotmail.com  Fri Jan 25 23:19:36 2002
From: brent102@hotmail.com (Brent Barts)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:19:36 -0600
Subject: sr20ve ideas and thoughts
Message-ID: <LAW2-F745pneeFUtLch0000fd60@hotmail.com>

Hi guys, with all the talk of the varible valve motor lately i've been
thinking about it a little more.  Since the VVL motor uses the 54c block
(pulsar) why not put the quad throttle bodies(from the sunny/pulsar) on it
instead of  uprading to the sr16 one?
I would think this setup would net better gains then a larger single
throttle bodie since 4 throttle bodies would flow better.  Not to mention
the intake runners would be shorter and straighter.
Another possible hop up would be a phase swicth like the honduh's have that
gives the driver the ability to change when the v tec comes on.
Kinda makes me wonder if somebody doesn't already have one of these for the
jdm primera?
Since this engine has been around for a few years in japan, wouldn't there
be other cams available instead of the hard as hell to find sr16 ones?
Brent
91 se-R det near completion
90 TTz
91 nx2k for sale...cheap
01 dakota-possibly for sale in the near future.

From Nismo91ser@aol.com  Fri Jan 25 23:22:58 2002
From: Nismo91ser@aol.com (Nismo91ser@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:22:58 -0600
Subject: seats
Message-ID: <168.7bb68ad.298342ce@aol.com>

Do any other Nissans have the same seats as the classic???I'm looking to do
leather and i havent found a place that has the kits for the classics but
they have them for the newer cars. Thanks in advance

Tom
87Golf(beater)
91classic(totaled)
92classic(Project Reconstruct)
CAI,Hotshot Gen3, 2.5manderal,ST bars,full ES bushing,ES motor mounts,
Tokicos, H&R's,$tillen kit,16' Enkei RSEvolution w/Nitto450,Big
brakes,slotted rotors, EBC green pads,UR 2pulley,Nology wires,FPR,FSB,Hella
horns,more...
142whp(on other motor)

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Sat Jan 26 00:53:30 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:53:30 -0600
Subject: seats
In-Reply-To: <168.7bb68ad.298342ce@aol.com>
References: <168.7bb68ad.298342ce@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1012006607.10573.58.camel@pugelist>

On Fri, 2002-01-25 at 17:22, Nismo91ser@aol.com wrote:

> Do any other Nissans have the same seats as the classic ?

Interesting thought.  I've seen a couple of B14s with B13 seats in them,
so you may be able to do something starting there...I think you'll be
less comfortable with B14 seats, though, especially if you're a larger
person.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From jwhitely2000@yahoo.com  Sat Jan 26 01:35:16 2002
From: jwhitely2000@yahoo.com (Jay Whitely)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 19:35:16 -0600
Subject: sr20ve ideas and thoughts
In-Reply-To: <LAW2-F745pneeFUtLch0000fd60@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20020126013515.72815.qmail@web9203.mail.yahoo.com>

Since the VVL
> motor uses the 54c block
> (pulsar) why not put the quad throttle bodies(from
> the sunny/pulsar) on it
> instead of  uprading to the sr16 one?

***Yes, the VVL motor uses the 54C block, as does the
Pulsar GTi-R. Quad throttle bodies, however, do not
bolt to the block. They bolt to the head. Therefore,
even though the blocks are the same, the heads are
different, which makes this swap not feasible.

Furthermore, the GTi-R head is a high port design,
whereas the VVL motors are a low port design.

=====
Jay Whitely
Tampa, FL
1996 200SX SE-R
GTi-R powered, F-MAX Stage 2

From 93SER@attbi.com  Sat Jan 26 01:37:34 2002
From: 93SER@attbi.com (Mike Jez)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 19:37:34 -0600
Subject: Ballistic Oil Filter and my engine
References: <B87741EB.AC95%wrightj@apple.com>
Message-ID: <015601c1a60a$0d57b4a0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>

Well I gave the SE-R to my brother to drive since I had my Maxima and the
Audi to drive and the SE-R was just sitting there most of the time..he went
to the Nissan dealer to get the filter as I taught him. He changed the oil
at my shop and drove off...changed the filter the next day. He was driving
50MPH and saw a cloud of smoke behind him after he took off from the
light...seconds later from under the hood..and then the oil light came
on...engine started to slow down and shut off. My brother knowing what to do
coasted to the side and looked at the filter which was now just laying there
on the power steering hoses..engine wouldn't even crank over after this. It
seized up. I am going to rebuild it and have it runing in a jiffy and some.
Mike Jez
93 SE-R Turbo seized up engine
01 Maxima for sale...too slow only mid 14s in the 1/4
93 Audi...won't make it down the 1320 :)

From gsr1997@msn.com  Sat Jan 26 02:02:36 2002
From: gsr1997@msn.com (gsr1997@msn.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:02:36 -0600
Subject: removal of  egr valve
Message-ID: <OE25CAIx06wSWpDB1kQ00002f39@hotmail.com>

what exactly does romoving the egr valve and pcv valve do for performence? or
any other benefit?
jeff
93 nx2000 act clutch and wrecked front
90 maxima se stock and newly aquired

From McDaddi007@aol.com  Sat Jan 26 02:05:46 2002
From: McDaddi007@aol.com (McDaddi007@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:05:46 -0600
Subject: Why won't they fit?
Message-ID: <94.2065e350.298368ef@aol.com>

Has anyone tryed to put on coilovers that aren't hell of expensive on to a
G20 that were made for another Nissan?  If not, why won't they fit the G20?
I want to lower my 2002 but ground control coil overs are to much money?

Michael
'02 G20

From brian@unxplodedbomb.com  Sat Jan 26 02:18:25 2002
From: brian@unxplodedbomb.com (UXB)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:18:25 -0600
Subject: Why won't they fit?
In-Reply-To: <94.2065e350.298368ef@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B8777819.B61%brian@unxplodedbomb.com>

> I want to lower my 2002 but ground control coil overs are to much money?

They are $500.  I really dont think that is too expensive concidering
suspension is such a key function of your car.  Trying to cut corners
on suspension isnt a great idea.  You'll regret it.

Get the GC's with KYB AGX's for $750 and you should be fine.

Side rant: (this may not pertain to you, nor am I implying it does)
Why do some people swap their stock stereo the same month they buy
their new car...  they get a $300 head unit, $300 subs w/ box, and
$350 amp,  yet when it comes to suspension they dont want to pay
anything over $500??  ...and still want quality?! ...and ride 1"
off the ground?!?!

Brian:)

From geo3@earthlink.net  Sat Jan 26 02:22:08 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:22:08 -0600
Subject: removal of  egr valve
In-Reply-To: <OE25CAIx06wSWpDB1kQ00002f39@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020125202656.00ab9100@mail.earthlink.net>

Jeff, gsr1997@msn.com wrote:

>what exactly does romoving the egr valve and pcv valve do for performence?

Nothing.

But it will make you quite the polluter. :-)

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From geo3@earthlink.net  Sat Jan 26 02:26:58 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:26:58 -0600
Subject: Why won't they fit?
In-Reply-To: <94.2065e350.298368ef@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020125202735.00d30410@mail.earthlink.net>

Michael, McDaddi007@aol.com wrote:

>Has anyone tryed to put on coilovers that aren't hell of expensive on to a
>G20 that were made for another Nissan?  If not, why won't they fit the G20?
>I want to lower my 2002 but ground control coil overs are to much money?

Michael, you keep asking the same questions over and over again.  Have you
even done any research on your own?

I don't think anyone on this list is likely to have tried some of the cheap
shit coilovers such as the crap you can buy for a Honduh.  I remember
someone posted they bought some cheap coilovers for their SE-R and they
were total crap.

Stick with GC.

Oh, and don't even think of using them with the stock dampers.

If you cannot afford to do it right, I suggest not doing it at all.  You'll
only regret it in the end.  Some things you can get away with going cheap
on, but your suspension is not one of them.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From geo3@earthlink.net  Sat Jan 26 02:31:56 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:31:56 -0600
Subject: Why won't they fit?
In-Reply-To: <B8777819.B61%brian@unxplodedbomb.com>
References: <94.2065e350.298368ef@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020125203234.00d302e0@mail.earthlink.net>

Brian, UXB wrote:

>Side rant: (this may not pertain to you, nor am I implying it does)
>Why do some people swap their stock stereo the same month they buy
>their new car...  they get a $300 head unit, $300 subs w/ box, and
>$350 amp,  yet when it comes to suspension they dont want to pay
>anything over $500??  ...and still want quality?! ...and ride 1"
>off the ground?!?!

I'll drink to that.

Despite what some might think, I *do* understand folks cutting corners
where they can in some cases.  To paraphrase Mike Kojima, cars are nothing
more than money toilets.  But, some things just shouldn't be compromised
on, and other things (if you can) should be done right and put off other
things.  By and large I think doing quality mods over quantity of mods will
always get you more respect from car guys.  Well.... serious car guys.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From MidPerfHQ@aol.com  Sat Jan 26 05:21:27 2002
From: MidPerfHQ@aol.com (MidPerfHQ@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 23:21:27 -0600
Subject: ECU Question
Message-ID: <198.1a84110.298396d4@aol.com>

I was wondering if there is a difference between
ECU's between 95 and 97 SE-Rs.  I just swapped
my 97 ECU into a 95. Everything seems to be
running ok with no problems or check engine
light. Is it OK then to run this ecu in this car, or
am I going to have problems down the road
doing this? Thanks

From flyryd@cox.net  Sat Jan 26 05:24:16 2002
From: flyryd@cox.net (flyryd)
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 23:24:16 -0600
Subject: ECU Question
References: <198.1a84110.298396d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <04b501c1a62a$188214e0$b4600344@ph.cox.net>

It is fine.there are no differences
Brad B. Phx  AZ
'96 200sx SE-R(w/ this 'n' that)
'01 Altima GXE LE

 > light. Is it OK then to run this ecu in this car, or
> am I going to have problems down the

From RiCeCubE77@cs.com  Sat Jan 26 07:58:45 2002
From: RiCeCubE77@cs.com (RiCeCubE77@cs.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 01:58:45 -0600
Subject: ABS Brake Problem...
Message-ID: <6c.166282d0.2983bbaf@cs.com>

Last night (um....Friday the 25th), it just turned cold .. say around 40-50 F
here.
Anywho, i just finished watching a movie with some friends, and turned on my
car, the ABS light is on.... Its gone on before but just turned off when the
car warmed up. I drove to a friend's house about 10 mi away and went in. Came
out 4-5 hours later, i can hear the ABS controller/pump thing running.
(Passenger side, right by the headlight). Uh oh...
Turn on the car, pop the hood, and look, the controller is STILL running, and
the ABS light is STILL on. Turn the car off,  the ABS is STILL running. Is it
clogged? Any idea what the problem is? (George..... i think THIS is the
little shit thats causing my 20mpg maybe?.... making me run my brakes?) The
ABS light and controller is always on when car is running, a nd
contrtoller/pump is running when the car is off. Tonight im leaving my car
"unplugged"... meaning took out the battery. Gonna reset the ECU and see if
that works.....Could the ABS pump be clogged maybe? Or is it just running
like crazy to make my milage REALLY bad? ..

-Phil
94' P10 G20

P.S. Need to fix this quick...... date tommorrow. Is it possible (or even
safe? ... i can pump brakes if the ABS is just bad.....) to drive around town
? Or will driving cause my car to go bonkers?

...... Geo expect a phone call in the morning ;)

From cyc5181@msn.com  Sat Jan 26 09:36:10 2002
From: cyc5181@msn.com (Andy Cheung)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 03:36:10 -0600
Subject: alarm and remote-start
Message-ID: <F6IKgelOx6V2zi5r5AO00011796@hotmail.com>

hi all
i recently installed an alarm system with remote start, and for some reason,
the car wont start with the remote start, the guy that installed the system
showed me that the remote start does work, and the car does start with the
key......can someone help me out? thx alot

Andy
NX2k w/DET

_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com

From cyc5181@msn.com  Sat Jan 26 09:41:48 2002
From: cyc5181@msn.com (Andy Cheung)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 03:41:48 -0600
Subject: NX max wheel width and offset
Message-ID: <F7z5Zyqyb0oQG625xpG0000e2ca@hotmail.com>

hello everyone
does anyone know what's the maximum wheel width can the NX fit? with what
kind of offset? it'll be a 17" wheel
thx alot guys

Andy
Houston, TX

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

From ratteber@speedfactory.net  Sat Jan 26 16:21:44 2002
From: ratteber@speedfactory.net (Ron A)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 10:21:44 -0600
Subject: Spec V On Motorweek
Message-ID: <3C52D741.5886F6C9@speedfactory.net>

Just saw the SE-R Spec V on Motorweek. I managed to tape it on the tape
that had Motorweek's test of the 1991 SE-R and the 2000 Sentra SE PP.
The results:
91 Classic  0-60  7.5   1/4 mile  15.9@89mph
00 Sentra SE PP  0-60  8.3  1/4 mile  16.3@84mph
02 Spec V  0-60  7.1  1/4 mile  15.5@90mph.

Obviously the Spec V was faster. What concerned me was the wheel hop on
the Spec V on the 1/4 mile run and the lifting of the inside rear wheel
when driven through the cones. Neither of the other two cars did that.

One last thing, I have to agree with my wife about the red seats in the
blue car. Yuck! Nice seats, but come on Nissan!

Ron Atteberry
92 Classic
Lilburn, GA

From Samuel Bass" <achmiel@mindspring.com  Sat Jan 26 16:35:44 2002
From: Samuel Bass" <achmiel@mindspring.com (Samuel Bass)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 10:35:44 -0600
Subject: alarm and remote-start
References: <F6IKgelOx6V2zi5r5AO00011796@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <02b801c1a687$704217e0$8ebcfea9@ebox>

This may be a stupid question. The car is an automatic, right? That would at
least rule out a problem.

Sam Bass
Largo, FL
98 SE-R with a few tricks

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Sat Jan 26 17:36:10 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 11:36:10 -0600
Subject: Spec V On Motorweek
In-Reply-To: <3C52D741.5886F6C9@speedfactory.net>
References: <3C52D741.5886F6C9@speedfactory.net>
Message-ID: <1012066768.12374.12.camel@pugelist>

On Sat, 2002-01-26 at 10:21, Ron A wrote:

> 91 Classic  0-60  7.5   1/4 mile  15.9@89mph
> 00 Sentra SE PP  0-60  8.3  1/4 mile  16.3@84mph
> 02 Spec V  0-60  7.1  1/4 mile  15.5@90mph.

I really don't understand what all the fuss was about in October; the
Spec-V is an improvement in every way over it's direct predecessor (my
car), and even exceeds the Classic.  It's a good car, dammit!  If the
redlines weren't so low on the SE and the SE-R, they'd be quite a bit
quicker in both 0-60 and 1/4; the one thing Nissan did screw the pooch
on.

> Obviously the Spec V was faster. What concerned me was the wheel hop on
> the Spec V on the 1/4 mile run and the lifting of the inside rear wheel
> when driven through the cones. Neither of the other two cars did that.

What do you mean the SE didn't wheel-hop?  Lifting the inside rear is a
common manifestation with stiff suspensions; I really don't think it's a
problem.

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From bkoko001@yahoo.com  Sat Jan 26 19:12:46 2002
From: bkoko001@yahoo.com (Brian Kokoska)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 13:12:46 -0600
Subject: JWT S3 cam timing
Message-ID: <20020126191245.73593.qmail@web14607.mail.yahoo.com>

I read in the archives that the optimal base timing
setting for my 92 SE-R would be 13-15 degrees.  I have
the JWT S3 cams but no JWT ECU.  If any of you would
recommend a different setting could you please drop me
a line?
Thanks,
Brian

=====
92 SE-R w/ mods

From velasquj@rohan.sdsu.edu  Sat Jan 26 20:35:09 2002
From: velasquj@rohan.sdsu.edu (Juan Velasquez)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:35:09 -0600
Subject: CES report?
In-Reply-To: <5A6A53106B96D4118D0000508BADCAFD0151BAB5@HORIZON>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020124142749.00b6f170@rohan.sdsu.edu>

At 04:23 PM 1/24/2002 -0600, Joe Stewart wrote:
>Wasn't the CES show this week or last? How soon can we expect the report? :)

>Who does that? I forgot exactly who, but I look forward to it every year.

That would be me. I have 1500 pictures and a large report coming up very
soon on
sounddomain.com.  I am almost done with the writeup.  Should be a bit
bigger than
last year, but not by much.

Juan

From rick@zotz.com  Sat Jan 26 21:42:24 2002
From: rick@zotz.com (Rick Zotz)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 15:42:24 -0600
Subject: Spec V On Motorweek
References: <3C52D741.5886F6C9@speedfactory.net>
 <1012066768.12374.12.camel@pugelist>
Message-ID: <003701c1a6b2$3d23cb30$0101010a@diablo>

Jon Pennington wrote:
>  I really don't understand what all the fuss was about in October; the
> Spec-V is an improvement in every way over it's direct predecessor (my
> car), and even exceeds the Classic.  It's a good car, dammit!

You *never* see a bad review on MotorWeek, but this one for the '02 SE-R was
less-than glowing.  This was indicated by the staff's restraint in
commenting about some aspects of the car.  The driver's enthusiasm was
evident in how much harder the car was pushed through the slalom compared to
tests of other vehicles, but despite the good numbers, there were signs of
the staff being underwhelmed. The review also seemed shorter than the one
given to the '00 SE two years ago.

Oh well... I hope the car sells well enough.

Rick -Z-
2000 Sentra SE
Kirkland, WA
http://www.zotz.com/

From sr20de@epix.net  Sat Jan 26 23:10:37 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 17:10:37 -0600
Subject: Spec V On Motorweek
References: <3C52D741.5886F6C9@speedfactory.net>
 <1012066768.12374.12.camel@pugelist>
 <003701c1a6b2$3d23cb30$0101010a@diablo>
Message-ID: <3C53374A.54EC3F1F@epix.net>

Rick Zotz wrote:

> commenting about some aspects of the car.  The driver's
> enthusiasm was evident in how much harder the car was pushed
> through the slalom compared to tests of other vehicles, but
> despite the good numbers, there were signs of

Yes they were tossing that car big time!  They didn't like the
handling.  There dopes.  They liked that ugly Thunderbird
instead.  It had a V8 and it didn't do any better 0-60 or to
the 1/4 then the SE-R did.  Very sad.  And there was no slalom
done on it?  Atleast I don't recall it.

When the Civic Si comes out they'll review it and have glowing
comments for it.  Even if the Questicle could out handle it
and a Chevy Sprint could outrun it.

RK
--
Ray Kawski
1998 Sentra SE Turbo, 1991 NX 2000, 340K mile 1991 Sentra SE-R
Poconos, PA

From yesous2@earthlink.net  Sun Jan 27 01:06:21 2002
From: yesous2@earthlink.net (Viola Armstrong)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 19:06:21 -0600
Subject: SR20 Fuel Injectors
Message-ID: <41200210271831640@earthlink.net>

OK I just finished spending forever searching the archives. I've still
got a ?. I just received some fuel injectors from a fellow list member.
We took them out of a DM fuel rail. They are red, just as my infectors
are. My question is, are all sr20 injectors the same? I read in the
archives about all red ones even in the KA24 motor are the same. I'm just
making sure I do not need any ECU changes. Thanks  JoelSlow 96R Enjoy the
ride  Joel           --- Joel & Viola Armstrong     Walk by Faith not by
Sight--- yesous2@earthlink.net--- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real
Internet.

From RSlate1282@aol.com  Sun Jan 27 02:13:39 2002
From: RSlate1282@aol.com (RSlate1282@aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:13:39 -0600
Subject: Remote Start
Message-ID: <e.1922f510.2984bc4c@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/26/02 5:09:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
se-r-request@lists.deskmedia.com writes:

> the guy that installed the system
> showed me that the remote start does work, and the car does start with the
> key......can someone help me out? thx alot

Andy, just take the car back and have him show you how to use the buttons on
the remote start hand held controller. Seems like a no brainer to me or am I
missing something in your post???
Ron Slate

From ianshannon97@msn.com  Sun Jan 27 02:37:45 2002
From: ianshannon97@msn.com (ianshannon97)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:37:45 -0600
Subject: Brooklyn meet
Message-ID: <001401c1a6db$d1037d40$7656c143@computer>

OK, this thing is starting at 11:00 to whenever. He will be selling
accessories. There seems to be a nice interest in this meet.

-Exit 13 off the Belt Parkway east or west:
Get off the Belt take Rockaway 3 lights to Seaview Avenue. Make a left. Then 2
or 3 lights to Remsen (Green Arrow). Make a right turn. Take Remsen to
Flatlands. The shop is a blue shop. It is on the left across Flatlands. You
may see all the cars parked in front.

-From the Jackie Robinson (Interboro):
Take the Jackie Robinson to the end. Drive down Pennsylvania Avenue to
Flatlands. Make a right on Flatlands. Take Flatlands to Remsen. Make right.
The shop is blue and it is across the street as soon as you turn.

Points in Brooklyn:
Atlantic Avenue to Rockaway (South). Make left or right (depending on where
you are coming from). Rockaway to Flatlands. Right on Flatlands to Remsen.
Follow directions above.

Address for Mapquest or Yahoo is:
1194 Remsen Avenue
Brooklyn NY 11236

91 NX2000 with work.
97 Maxima SE, smooth and powerful automatic
http://www.angelfire.com/ny/ianjiggyroom/IansNX2000page.html

From 93SER@attbi.com  Sun Jan 27 02:47:16 2002
From: 93SER@attbi.com (Mike Jez)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:47:16 -0600
Subject: VE pistons
Message-ID: <001c01c1a6dc$f458c9c0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>

Anyone know where I can get a set of SR16VE pistons in the US ? I'm rebuilding
my SR20 and wanna use those to get 11:1 compression without spending 800 bux
on a set of Z32 pistons with JWT overbore and shipping charges.
Mike Jez
93 SE-R Turbo...seized engine...not for long
01 Max..big car...4 sale..fast
93 Audi for sale too.

From Samuel Bass" <achmiel@mindspring.com  Sun Jan 27 02:56:04 2002
From: Samuel Bass" <achmiel@mindspring.com (Samuel Bass)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:56:04 -0600
Subject: CES report?
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20020124142749.00b6f170@rohan.sdsu.edu>
Message-ID: <02f501c1a6de$16d54270$8ebcfea9@ebox>

What is a CES report?

Sam Bass
Largo, FL
98 SE-R with a few tricks

From southwest@serca.org  Sun Jan 27 03:39:24 2002
From: southwest@serca.org (C. Gutierrez)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:39:24 -0600
Subject: Inside Wheel Lifting ( was...RE: Spec V On Motorweek)
Message-ID: <20020127033917.5C0F0B6E2@xprdmailfe.excite.com>

Ron A , wrote:

>>and the lifting of the inside rear wheel when driven through the cones.
Neither of the other two cars did that. >>

Hehehe, you should see some of the classics w/ stock suspension at
Streets of Willow, in the tighter turns on that track. I was following
Joel Ward in his auto '93 and my passengers & I were gettin' a real kick
out of it. :)

I'll have to get some in car pics this next time, woohoo, 2 more weeks!
For those who've never been to a road course, you owe it to yourselves.
The 2002 Convention in AZ would be a perfect start! ;^)

SincERely,

Carlos Gutierrez
SERCA-SW RE '91 SE-R 248k+ mi.
Valencia, CA

From jliao2k@yahoo.com  Sun Jan 27 03:39:45 2002
From: jliao2k@yahoo.com (john liao)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:39:45 -0600
Subject: new vs. old sr20ve
Message-ID: <20020127033944.71943.qmail@web12503.mail.yahoo.com>

what did nissan do to the new ve that gave it more
power? different headers? cams? ecu? i've been waiting
for over ten years for something like this but maybe
i should wait until the new one starts to arrive in
the US. then again, my b13 may start rusting...

john l.

=====

From cowboydren@yahoo.com  Sun Jan 27 05:57:37 2002
From: cowboydren@yahoo.com (Jon Pennington)
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 23:57:37 -0600
Subject: VE pistons
In-Reply-To: <001c01c1a6dc$f458c9c0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>
References: <001c01c1a6dc$f458c9c0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>
Message-ID: <1012111255.12374.259.camel@pugelist>

On Sat, 2002-01-26 at 20:47, Mike Jez wrote:

> Anyone know where I can get a set of SR16VE pistons in the US ? I'm rebuilding
> my SR20 and wanna use those to get 11:1 compression without spending 800 bux
> on a set of Z32 pistons with JWT overbore and shipping charges.

I smoke a lot of crack, but I was under the impression that the 3.0l and
2.0l engines used the same bore and stroke.  Makes sense:

  2.0l / 4 cyl = 500cc per cyl
  3.0l / 6 cyl = 500cc per cyl

If this were true (and I'm not saying it is), why couldn't you simply
get some pistons out of a low-miler Z32 block and drop them in?

  http://www.se-r-list.org/archives/2000/2000-07/msg01148.html

--
-=|JP|=-           Need a good geek?  I'm unemployed!

 '01 B15 SE/PP  |   http://www.xanga.com/cowboydren/    |  <//><
 '95 SL2 Auto   |       cowboydren @ yahoo . com        |

From geo3@earthlink.net  Sun Jan 27 06:05:42 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 00:05:42 -0600
Subject: VE pistons
In-Reply-To: <1012111255.12374.259.camel@pugelist>
References: <001c01c1a6dc$f458c9c0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>
 <001c01c1a6dc$f458c9c0$e7fef80c@CB795824B>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020127001005.00d26e80@mail.earthlink.net>

Jon Pennington wrote:

>I smoke a lot of crack

Banana laced crack. ;-)

>but I was under the impression that the 3.0l and
>2.0l engines used the same bore and stroke.

Nope.

SR20 bore = 86.0 mm
Z32 bore = 87.0 mm

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From mena.ka@verizon.net  Sun Jan 27 06:37:23 2002
From: mena.ka@verizon.net (Mena Aqenenni)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 00:37:23 -0600
Subject: SR20VE
In-Reply-To: <F66FU73iVmaPWV3EIDN0000ca54@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <000b01c1a6fc$d5155900$8c4e3c04@vz.dsl.genuity.net>

> >Do you think it would be possible to retro fit the
> >EGR system from a DE onto the VE?

I think I might be able get someone at work to do it but he'll probably
need to see what needs to be done. I really want that engine.

Mena
92 Classic
01 G20t

From mc_boy_se_r@hotmail.com  Sun Jan 27 07:10:26 2002
From: mc_boy_se_r@hotmail.com (milton cancel)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 01:10:26 -0600
Subject: ? on plugs&wires
Message-ID: <F39s6P1sceBhVgFwK0k0000fbc1@hotmail.com>

!hi lists about to do tune-up just wondering what is a good brand of spark
plugs&wires for the sr20's looking for performance wires.
                thanks in advance for the advice

96'SE-R
Milton Y. Cancel
Orlando, FL

From geo3@earthlink.net  Sun Jan 27 07:21:53 2002
From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 01:21:53 -0600
Subject: ? on plugs&wires
In-Reply-To: <F39s6P1sceBhVgFwK0k0000fbc1@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20020127012407.00d41b90@mail.earthlink.net>

milton cancel wrote:

>!hi lists about to do tune-up just wondering what is a good brand of spark
>plugs&wires for the sr20's looking for performance wires.

Unless you have a high boost SR20, just stick with the OEM wires.  They are
the best.

The only wire upgrade worth mentioning is the Nology wires at about $200 a
set.  And, I've heard of some folks having problems with them.

Just stick to OEM.  Seriously.

George Roffe
Houston, TX
91 SE-R (well modded)
91 G20  (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
<http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/>

From mc_boy_se_r@hotmail.com  Sun Jan 27 07:47:03 2002
From: mc_boy_se_r@hotmail.com (milton cancel)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 01:47:03 -0600
Subject: turbo kit
Message-ID: <F59jz12oiPpdT7a9Uqw0000fb0d@hotmail.com>

!hi again everyone thanks for the answers on the wires looks like I'll be
going to Classic Nissan tomorrow to buy a set don't know about the plugs
yet. Anyway I'm looking for a turbo kit for my se-r I want to spent from
2-3k I know the hotshot kit is 3,299 do I have another choice also if
anybody knows of a use one for sale let me know.

                      thanks in advance for any reply's

96'SE-R
Milton Y. Cancel
Orlando, FL

From Sentra9D1SER@aol.com  Sun Jan 27 08:36:01 2002
From: Sentra9D1SER@aol.com (Sentra9D1SER@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 02:36:01 -0600
Subject: ? on plugs&wires
Message-ID: <17c.2b38360.298515ec@aol.com>

>!hi lists about to do tune-up just wondering what is a good brand of spark
>plugs&wires for the sr20's looking for performance wires.

NGK platinum, never had a problem with them.

Darel
91 classic

From wmc20@dnaco.net  Sun Jan 27 14:56:59 2002
From: wmc20@dnaco.net (Wayne Cox)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 08:56:59 -0600
Subject: SR20 Fuel Injectors
In-Reply-To: <20020127010802.2DECD27E18@dm2.deskmedia.com>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020127095109.01f61468@mailhost.dnaco.net>

At 07:08 PM 1/26/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>just received some fuel injectors from a fellow list member. We took them
>out of a DM fuel rail. They are red, just as my infectors are. My question
>is, are all sr20 injectors the same? I read in the archives about

Some of them have a paint stripe on them.  Every one of the body / stripe
color combos is calibrated slightly differently.  You should never mix
different color & stripe (or no-stripe) injectors on the same engine.  Your
set *might* be ok to use, as long as they're al identical, but the red is
no guarantee they'll work with your ECU.  There was a TSB out several years
ago that listed many of the injectors available, their codings, and what
they went in.  Anyone have a copy handy?

  -Wayne Cox
     '92 SE-R  SERiously F**cked front end
        '91 NX2k quick beater  '93NX2k  Lisa's

From jay@nx2k.com  Sun Jan 27 17:32:44 2002
From: jay@nx2k.com (Jay Stewart)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 11:32:44 -0600
Subject: Those black boxes sure do suck
Message-ID: <014f01c1a758$a24b5090$0f00a8c0@jay.com>

8.07 @ 172. Read the article in this month's Turbo.

-Jay (dumb DSM guy)
97 GSX 11.8 @ 119.7 full weight, no NOS

From sr20de@epix.net  Sun Jan 27 19:04:49 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 13:04:49 -0600
Subject: ? on plugs&wires
References: <4.3.2.7.0.20020127012407.00d41b90@mail.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3C544F42.6B79517@epix.net>

George Roffe wrote:

> Unless you have a high boost SR20, just stick with the OEM wires.
> They are the best.

Even on boost.  Atleast thats what I've been told.  14psi stock
stuff no problemos!

RK
Still MSD-less
--
Ray Kawski
1998 Sentra SE Turbo, 1991 NX 2000, 340K mile 1991 Sentra SE-R
Poconos, PA

From sr20de@epix.net  Sun Jan 27 19:07:12 2002
From: sr20de@epix.net (Raymond A. Kawski)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 13:07:12 -0600
Subject: turbo kit
References: <F59jz12oiPpdT7a9Uqw0000fb0d@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C544FD2.3A5527E8@epix.net>

milton cancel wrote:

> 2-3k I know the hotshot kit is 3,299 do I have another choice also if
> anybody knows of a use one for sale let me know.

2-3K is probably doable for a DET swap or bolting a T25 from a DET to
you DE.  I wouldn't recommend the latter for the non
mechanically inclinded.

RK
--
Ray Kawski
1998 Sentra SE Turbo, 1991 NX 2000, 340K mile 1991 Sentra SE-R
Poconos, PA

From ScreaminSER96@cs.com  Sun Jan 27 19:27:47 2002
From: ScreaminSER96@cs.com (ScreaminSER96@cs.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 13:27:47 -0600
Subject: Anyone with 13" wheels on a b14?
Message-ID: <194.1bc1ca2.2985aead@cs.com>

Do any of you run 13" wheels on a b14 96ser? (for autocrossing)  I would
eventually like to do this but need to know if it is possible to do so
without modification to the brakes, etc.  It seems like I need to do this to
become competitive in DSP.

From probedude@hotmail.com  Sun Jan 27 19:37:29 2002
From: probedude@hotmail.com (probedude)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 13:37:29 -0600
Subject: Those black boxes sure do suck
References: <014f01c1a758$a24b5090$0f00a8c0@jay.com>
Message-ID: <OE28nzi95HfqR77bieL0001da6c@hotmail.com>

I give up.  What's a dumb black box?

Dave

From dougnosser@aol.com  Sun Jan 27 21:23:48 2002
From: dougnosser@aol.com (dougnosser@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 15:23:48 -0600
Subject: Clutchnet clutch
Message-ID: <85.1687bbd3.2985c9de@aol.com>

Does anyone know if the pressure plate that Ryan and Zak used in their turbo
monsters is the single or double diaphragm. Also I would like to know if the
disc is the one with the fiber and steel faced backing. Their website shows
it as "Fiber-Kevlar-Carbon" Lining, Marcel Drive Plate, Sprung Hub,
Street-Performance Clutch Disc . Is this the one? Thanks in advance.

doug

From wrightj@apple.com  Sun Jan 27 22:27:33 2002
From: wrightj@apple.com (Jim Wright)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:27:33 -0600
Subject: ? on plugs&wires
In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.0.20020127012407.00d41b90@mail.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <B879DAF0.ACF8%wrightj@apple.com>

On 1/27/02 1:21 AM, "George Roffe" <geo3@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Unless you have a high boost SR20, just stick with the OEM wires.  They are
> the best.

Agreed.  And when I picked up my set from Courtesy, they were actually
cheaper than one of the aftermarket brands I looked at here.  They're
excellent quality, apparently far better than you find from most
manufacturers.

For the plugs, NGK Platinum.  Don't use any6 of those gimmic plugs, the
claims usually don't add up to any benefit, usually they're no better or
sometimes even worse, and any benefits you might see don't last very long.

You'll get a nice long life out of the NGKs.  My current set have almost 80k
miles on then.  I figure it'll be about time to pull them around 210k miles
or so.  ;)  Your mileage may vary.

From isd2k@hotmail.com  Sun Jan 27 22:49:32 2002
From: isd2k@hotmail.com (Adam Koo)
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:49:32 -0600
Subject: test
Message-ID: <F10MW9TNbXf50o2aUoD0002400c@hotmail.com>

testing...

Adam