Rear suspension

[Ben Fenner]

Sorry for the late reply. I second what Tim says below about the long 
bolt holding the parallel arms to the knuckle. Although, most of us have 
no luck with penetrating oil and any amount of cheater bar or impact 
gun. So many of us have had to saw through that bolt. Be prepared to 
need to do that yourself. The problem is that the bolt is so long, it 
twists (acting like a spring) instead of transferring the force where 
you need it. That bolt is the only "gotcha" in the rear suspension. Good 
luck.

Are you aware of the parallel arms with spherical bearings that TurboFX 
makes? Since you're replacing yours, I thought I'd mention it since a 
lot of us have done this upgrade in the past 8 years they've been 
available. However, they do add a bit of noise, so if that's what you're 
trying to solve, don't bother. They do eliminate all of the binding that 
the stock suspension has built in. And they provide independent camber 
adjustment (in addition to retaining the stock toe adjustability) if 
that's something you're interested in.

-Ben Fenner
1994 Turbo SE-R
2000 M-Coupe


On 4/8/2018 10:28 PM, Tim Rogers wrote:
>  For the rear suspension, the long bolt that goes through the bottom 
> of the hub is often the worst to deal with. I would start with that 
> one as it helps to have everything else tight so that it doesn't move 
> around as you are trying to break it free. Use lots of Kroil not only 
> on the nut but on the other sides of the ears it passes through.
>
> Tim Rogers
>